Newbie Question about Install Setup

[NamesJay 10+ year member]

I'm fixing to have some speakers installed in my 2000 Celica and am interested in knowing if the following setup is good.

For front and rear speakers I plan on going with the Alpine SPR-176A's and powering those with an Alpine amp, MRV-F340.

For subs I was thinking of two SWR-1241D's with a MRD-M501 amp to power it.

My question is this: are the amps I have chosen for the speakers appropriate or do I need something more/less powerful?

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[johnecon2001 5,000+ posts]

First of all, the amp for the subs is way underpowered. Those subs take an RMS of 300 watts. If you have two of them, you can only run them at either 1 or 4 ohms. That amp isnt even stable at 1 ohm, so you have to run it at 4. At 4ohms, it only produces 225 watts... so each woofer would be getting 112.5 watts each which is not enough. As far as I know, alpine does not manufacture a 1 ohm stable amplifier. So you either need to get different subs or get a different amp.

For your mains.. that amp is within the acceptable power limits for the speakers to handle.

So over all, you subs/sub amp need work.. and why all alpine? There is better stuff available.

 

[NamesJay 10+ year member]

The main reason I want to go with all Alpine is so I can control all my settings through my head unit.

If I get different subs and sub amp, can I still do that through my CDA-9835?

 

[Nikuk 5,000+ posts]

Nothing wrong with running all Alpine if you want to. All alpine electronics would be convenient for you, but dont let that stop you from running different speakers either.

200rms to a pair of subs is not a bad thing either. You do not need to run full rms to them for them to work. If you have more funds, then look into getting a higher output sub amp. If you're strapped for cash, this'll do fine for now.

My 0.02

 

[johnecon2001 5,000+ posts]

yeah just get dual two ohm subs instead of dual 4 ohm ones (SWR-1221D). And get the MRD-M1001 to power them. Wire each sub in series (positve to negative) and then wire them both in parallell to the amp (positive to positive).

perfect.

 

[johnecon2001 5,000+ posts]

Nothing wrong with running all Alpine if you want to. All alpine electronics would be convenient for you, but dont let that stop you from running different speakers either.
200rms to a pair of subs is not a bad thing either. You do not need to run full rms to them for them to work. If you have more funds, then look into getting a higher output sub amp. If you're strapped for cash, this'll do fine for now.

My 0.02

that amp dont run at 1 ohm and the subs he wants are only wireable to 1, 4 or 8ohms. at 4 ohms he gets 112 watts a sub. rms on the subs is 300.

 

[Nikuk 5,000+ posts]

I'm aware of the ratings.

Have you ever put 200rms to two subs? they still do their jobs.

You dont have to feed a driver its full rms. The rms is generally the manufacturers recommended thermal rating to avoid driver breakage. Does that mean you should run them right up to that rating constantly?

You can also compensate low wattage supply by building a slightly larger box (vB), which is usually much cheaper then purchasing a larger amp.

BTW, if you'd read the post you would've noticed that I suggested (IMO) for him to get a larger amp if economically viable. Otherwise, this one will work.

BTW again, if the amp does in fact put out only 225@4ohms, and the drivers handle a combined 600rms... he prolly could clip the amp out and the subs would prolly work just as well. Just not sound proper.... like alot of 'street beater's' 'round here.

-Nick

It's his money, let him spend it. It's our opinions.

 

[NamesJay 10+ year member]

Just to clarify, the following setup would work well with my car?

Sub Amp = MRD-M1001

Subs = (2) SWR-1221D

Front/Rear Amp = MRV-F340

Front/Rears = (2) SPR-176A

Appreciate the help guys...

 

[diminishedpower 10+ year member]

Just to point out.. If you wanted to be able to control your subs from your headunit you only need to keep using alpine amps. You could use different subs. Not to say teh type-r aren't any good, because they are. Just a suggestion.

 

[johnecon2001 5,000+ posts]

Just to clarify, the following setup would work well with my car?
Sub Amp = MRD-M1001

Subs = (2) SWR-1221D

Front/Rear Amp = MRV-F340

Front/Rears = (2) SPR-176A

Appreciate the help guys...

Yup, if you can get the money for the sub amp that setup would be perfect.