Newbie here with strange noise

[everyday]

hi all. I got a problem with the system that is in my 65 gto convertible.

I've got an older (read that as 5 or 6 years old) alpine 4 channel amp, 12 inch subs, a pair of kicker separates and a recently installed alpine head unit that i just bought (cda-9811).

The new head unit was put in because i was getting this extremely loud "buzzing noise" at times and it appeared to be the old head unit. However now I'm thinking it might be the amp. I've turned the amp level down to zero and it appears to not happen but I'm not sure, I'm going to do some more testing.

This whole situation reared its ugly head after the car sat for almost 9 months while a new 600 hp engine was being built (it's an 11.50 quarter second car for those interested), anyway I know most of the components are old but I just need some decent tunes for cruising with the top down. Perfect sound is not desired in this setup.

So any ideas as to what the problem might be? an internal problem with the amp? wiring problem, specifically a ground problem? Just trying to solve it before going out and buying a pair of amps //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks

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[Trixter 10+ year member]

I would double check all the grounds. Since it has happened after the new engine was put in, chances are there were new or upgraded grounds for the motor and may cause a ground loop. Try different locations and see what happens. Also make sure the the head unit's frame is grounded directly to a solid ground point in the dash along with the normal ground.

 

[everyday]

Trixter, is it best to be able to bring all grounds back to the battery? Since the amp is the trunk and I have the large power cord with the splitter run back there should I run a large ground and splitter back to the battery?

Or add a second battery in the trunk with a battery switch similar to a boat? I've been thinking of doing this anyway since there is a lot of draw on the alternator even though I've upgraded to a newer style internal regulator type.

 

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

Originally posted by everyday Trixter, is it best to be able to bring all grounds back to the battery? Since the amp is the trunk and I have the large power cord with the splitter run back there should I run a large ground and splitter back to the battery?

 

Or add a second battery in the trunk with a battery switch similar to a boat? I've been thinking of doing this anyway since there is a lot of draw on the alternator even though I've upgraded to a newer style internal regulator type.

hmmm... ok, first ground cables should be as short as possible (I dunno why, but I've been told)

same ground points would be ideal, like your idea of having it run all the way to the batt's negative post again. But in the real world, most people do not do this. They have one more ground contact point at the rear and hope that there will not be any ground loop noise.

You have a 600hp motor under your car. Chances are, your sparkplug cables have been upgraded to a thicker gauge. I suggest you try fitting standard cables and listen to your system again. I ditched my performance cables with my daily car after it introduced horrendously loud noises into my system. Nothing could stop the whining...

A second battery will be useful for those times when your engine is off. AN isolator would allow the second batt to be used when the engine is off. That allows the primary batt to stay charged, and the second to be deep-cycled. (batt should be deep-cycle friendly..i.e. optima yellow top, stinger, etc)

what is the output of the alt? A yellow top might compliment the new higher output alt. I don't thin you NEED more than a single batt, if your system is non-comp standards.

lastly, what are you doing with a system in a drag car? People are hard at work to shed dreaded pounds off, yet you want to pile more on it? A large MDF box with a large sub WILL be heavy...very heavy. If you really need a system, then I'd suggest fiberglass instead, to minimise weight.

 

[everyday]

Well its not a drag car so to speak, its a convertible //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Just some back ground...I've updated the suspension to new corvette pieces and installed this true pontiac 455 along with a richmond 6 speed. This car built originally to compete in CAR CRAFT's real street eliminator...unfortunately the stopped doing it but brought it back this year.

So the weight is not an issue, I drive it all the time and love it!!!

Actually I get a very, very minimal hum from the ignition and since the exhaust is some what noisy and the top is down you have to turn the volume and can't hear the hum anyway.

Interesting about the ground wires being short as possible, I'll re-evaluate the best way to ground the system

Although I have to say I love the xm radio I installed with this new alpine head unit.

I believe the alternator is an 85 amp unit if memory serves.

 

[Trixter 10+ year member]

A second battery will only put a heavier load on your alt. As far as the ground cable, I use a non-fused distro. block for my multipul amp set up. Make sure that the RCA's are run on the opposite side of the car as the power wire. Paikiah pertty much said it, these are just a few extra things I thought of.

 

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

Originally posted by Trixter A second battery will only put a heavier load on your alt. As far as the ground cable, I use a non-fused distro. block for my multipul amp set up. Make sure that the RCA's are run on the opposite side of the car as the power wire. Paikiah pertty much said it, these are just a few extra things I thought of.

yeah, i love my unfused ground distro block. Very handy. I think I'll recommend it to any newbie that wants to install multiple amps.

oh, and 85amp alt... would be sufficient for yur current setup, I guess, but don't think it can take anymore for long periods of time.