Newbie Here Going for First SQ System Many Questions

[akkord 10+ year member]

I've been reading a lot on the different forums trying to pick up and learn as much as possible. I have modded my car in many ways from visual mods to going turbo for a couple years and now I pretty much want a reliable car that will get to and from work comfortably with a high end audio system since I will not be racing to and from work. Now onto many questions that I have if you would all be so kind to help out.

As reference my car is a 94 Accord Sedan.

I have already picked up an Arc Audio 4150xxk and a 1500xxk and currently have two older 12 inch Alumapro Alchemys from 2000/2001 or so that I am happy with.

Headunit - Looking for an HU that can be used in an active setup and am looking at the Eclipse CD7000 or the Eclipse 8455. Now my question for an active setup, say I used the 4150xxk for Tweeters and Rear Fill, 1500xxk for Subs, and pick up a 2500xxk for the mids how would this work out...wouldn't I need 4 preouts 1 set for highs, one for mids, one for the subs, one for rear fill or how would that work? Or should I use the 4150xxk to power the Mids and Highs, HU to power the rear fill, and 1500xxk for the subs?

Components - I have gone to a couple shops and listened to Dynaudio 2-way, Seas Lotus Reference 2 ways, Focal 165v2, and some others. I like the sound of the Seas and am pretty much set on going for that set. Now would the 4150xxk be able to power this effectively - 2 channels for the highs, 2 for the mids or would I have to do something as I stated above with another 2500xxk going to the mids? I do not know how power hungry the Seas are and I have very little experience with the Seas or any other component set for that matter.

Rear Fill - Does it make a HUGE difference what I have, I currently have some 3-way Pioneer 6x9s that came with the car when I bought in 1999 or so. Should I upgrade or leave them be and power them with the HU or amp them?

Electrical System - I will do the Big 3 soon and probably pick up a new battery prior to install since Hondas don't have the best alternators for a big system. For the big 3, can I use the current Chasis to Block, Negative to Chasis? Basically switch them out for 0 gauge and get rid of the old or should I make new contact points? Are there any cons to switching them out if I am able to do so? What is the difference between the Optima Red Top and Yellow Top batteries? I also briefly read that the Blue Top battery has both characteristics of the Red and Yellow, but is made for marine use, but could this not be used in a car? Costco in my area carries the Blue Top battery relatively cheap so I thought I would throw this out there. I am hoping this will solve any electrical issues if any, I will have, but if I still get dimming after the install I will probably go pick up a HO alternator.

I will probably think of more questions as put this all together. Sorry for the long read for those who got through and a BIG THANKS in advance. Also anyone in So CA that would like to help me out or let me listen to their setups since I listened to the speakers in a store and not a car environment, I'm in the Irvine area during the week and head up to Glendale most weekends.

Click to read more...

 

[Eugenics 5,000+ posts]

what car is it? and what have you done too it? just for shits and giggles

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

MY goodness man great gear first off!!

My suggestion. i have the eclipse 8455 and its a mighty fun HU to run an active setup. I love this thing. If you can get your hands on the CD7000 that would be great. The only difference between the the 8455 and the CD7000 is that the CD7000 has now 5v preout, they also added a 1 band PEQ on the sub and also they changed the looks a bit. Either HU would be fine.

Components: the Seas Lotus Refs would be an excellent choice. I heard them and are freaking awesome!! i say go with those and run them actively.

Also if you read enough, you know that many people don't like to run a rear fill. It's all up to you but IMO just running a frontstage only is the best.

Just run the seas off of the 4150 and be done with. the 1500 on your subs. get some tuning in with the seas and that should be a solid solid system. I wish i had that kind of money //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif. Again Nice gear man!

 

[Eugenics 5,000+ posts]

x2 on the comps. i recommend the 7" seas with the nextel cone if you're going active. amazing drivers

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

well ****, you pretty much have it down. So here are my thoughts

Rear Fill - pointless... seriously.. try running without them for awhile... then you'll forget you don't have them...

Big Three - Two things... first you need to run 0 ga from the batt + terminal to the + terminal on the alternator. Also just ADD the new wires, leave the stock stuff in place.

other than that you pretty much hit the nail on the head... the only thing left is the installation detail like placement of those SEAS lotus speakers and such... nice first post!

 

[JAZN 5,000+ posts]

I personally don't think you should run rear fill. I've sat in accords like yours with the 6x9's in the back and all it did was pull the stage all the way back. (however, that completely up to your taste) I would just go 2-way active in the front with the first 2 sets of preouts and use the other set for the sub. I don't see anything wrong with the stock ground points as long as you scratch off the paint at the point of contact. You should be fine with the 4150 for the seas.

 

[pwnt by pat 10+ year member]

Look into the Alpine PXA-h701 and RUX (or ruc? I forget)-h701. Toss in an Alpine CD9830 and you have a **** nice start to a 3-way active setup with a 31 band eq spanning 5 channels.

Skip on the rear fill completely. The only reason to have it is to keep it "off" until someone in the back complains about not hearing the music...

You'll want a 4 channel amp just for the fronts so you can run one speaker on each channel. I haven't played with the seas so I couldn't tell you their power requirements.

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

^^ if he's going in that direction might as well get the 9860 and an h701 because the 9860 can control the h701 instead of buying the rux.

 

[Eugenics 5,000+ posts]

im retarded and didn't read. i had a 94 coupe swapped out to a sleeved h22 and turboed. so props (340 whp ftw)

 

[JAZN 5,000+ posts]

^^ if he's going in that direction might as well get the 9860 and an h701 because the 9860 can control the h701 instead of buying the rux.

Agreed. That'll save some money and you dont have to do a double din setup.

 

[akkord 10+ year member]

First off thanks again...those were some quick replies...as for the debate between the 8455 and the new 7000...my gf listens to a lot of music and different types and would be nice to the have the ipod adaptor for the 7000 especially if it has the fast search and what not instead of switching out CDs/MP3 CDs...may be just a convenience factor...but if I found a deal on the 8455 I'd pick it up...pretty much have another month or so to look around for the 8455 until the 7000 comes out...

I guess most of you think its pointless to have rear fill...I guess I'll power them /w my HU and see if I like them in there or not...

I don't know why, but I don't like the way Alpine HUs look, I know they are great HUs from reading the forums and doing the research, but for some reason it just doesn't appeal to me and I don't want to be looking at something I don't like...which is why I strayed away from Alpine HUs etc...just a personal thing I guess...no offense to those who love Alpine...

what car is it? and what have you done too it? just for shits and giggles

Past was running a JDM F22B /w a Junkyard Turbo setup putting out around 230whp and 250 torque, daily driven...was fun until I got rid of it...currently just a stock H22 with RSR exhaust and AEM intake...also C-west front, TE-37s, Tein Suspension and other stuff...but how much did the H22 Turbo fully cost you???...if I build my current H22 I want to go All Motor since I have never gone that route and would love to try it, but turbo was so much fun...too bad my funds won't permit it at this time with all this audio stuff I'm buying... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif and I do want a reliable car and not something like turbo to worry about...

 

[Eugenics 5,000+ posts]

i think i payed around 7-8 grand to have it all done, my friend did the work for free so i got away easy. all motor is great though. i really want an f20 block. from what i understand its pretty much a destroked h22 and by its nature it revs much more freely and higher

 

[MBrock4u 10+ year member]

Looks like you are on track. You are doing your homework and thats improtant. I wil say one thing though, I am one of those guys who does like rear fill. You may like it. I run alpine 6x9 type s and they are very complementary to my system. You will just have to listen for yourself though. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Pyro_By_Nature 5,000+ posts]

Not going to read all this, but one of the most important things is a very well sound deadened vehicle.

 

[akkord 10+ year member]

Bringing this back up again since I got more questions before I go out and start buying more things I may end up not needing or may need better items.

My friend gave me an old fused distribution block and a 1 farad capacitor that he had lying around for free...now I am wondering if I should use either.

Distribution block - it accepts 3, 4 gauge inputs and has four 8 gauge outputs that is fused. Is 8 gauge power outputs good enough for the amps or would I need to run 4 gauge to the amps? Also if I use this distribution block what amperage fuses should I get? (For reference Arc Audio 4150xxk and 1500xxk if you didn't read the longer post above)

Capacitor - do I need it? I guess that would be the main question. Would it hurt to use it? I would not be using it as a quick fix for my electrical system. Also, hooking it up...if I am to use it...do I need to fuse the power wire going to the capacitor? Could I use the 4 gauge input/output that is not fused on the distribution block to the Capacitor, or should I use a fused output and an 8 gauge power wire? Would an 8 gauge power wire be thick enough for the capacitor?

Battery - In my first post I was asking about batteries, no one really addressed the question about Yellow Top, Blue Top, Red Top. I've done more research and have read that Red Top mainly for starting purposes, Yellow Deep Cycle, Blue Top has dual purpose. Can I use the Blue Top dual purpose battery and would it be the best of both worlds since I am not going to run 2 batteries in the car.

High Output Alternator - can someone direct me to someone, online retailer, or shop in the So Ca area that carries them. I would like to get some price estimates.

Sound deadening - any advice on how to apply it. Vertically on the doors, horizontally, any tips on sound deadening. My friend has an extra 60 sq feet or so that I would like to use on my doors. Any advice would be helpful.

Thanks in advance again to all those who respond.