New to car audio, suggest some subs for me please :-)

My l7 is blown btw ^_^
And you wish to risk another sub to inevitable clipping and distortion by lowering the amplifier resistance??....I am not trying to be an ***, I am strictly trying to inform you, so the same mistakes do not happen to the next sub... If the sub burned a coil, it was due to user error.

You say you are new to Car Audio...many others here are too. I learn something new about it every day, and I had my first system in 1988.

 
well when you can read I guess we'll listen to you, until then just keep suggesting amps he's not going to buy and we'll move on. And seeings as the L7 is blown like any bass head I'd want to get my bass back. So having that amp I would surely buy a sub way before another amp. So OP I still suggest whatever line of SSA subs that fit the power you have now, or maybe even the power you're looking to buy down the road. They're good loud subs and sound good doing it. Being as you're looking for some loud bang thd% is looked at AS MUCH as if you was going for a more sq sound. My suggestion still stands.
Quack where you at? I'm in S.E. Texas myself right now. I'm not trying to be a ****, just show you my reasoning. I'm suggesting for what the op wanted. Thats what his thread is all about. He needs a sub, I suggested a sub.
I did not suggest he buy anything, I showed him an amp that would match his goals at 4 ohms instead of 1

 
well when you can read I guess we'll listen to you, until then just keep suggesting amps he's not going to buy and we'll move on. And seeings as the L7 is blown like any bass head I'd want to get my bass back. So having that amp I would surely buy a sub way before another amp. So OP I still suggest whatever line of SSA subs that fit the power you have now, or maybe even the power you're looking to buy down the road. They're good loud subs and sound good doing it. Being as you're looking for some loud bang thd% is looked at AS MUCH as if you was going for a more sq sound. My suggestion still stands.
Quack where you at? I'm in S.E. Texas myself right now. I'm not trying to be a ****, just show you my reasoning. I'm suggesting for what the op wanted. Thats what his thread is all about. He needs a sub, I suggested a sub.
You really do not get it, do you?

 
So I think ill get the HDC3, Icon, or the BL. I'm going to do some measuring tomorrow to see if I can fit a 15, if i can im getting the 15 for sure. the rms on the hdc13 says 1000 is that correct? The BL is 1500 but there both similar pricing.

 
No I get it just fine. I use a hifonics amp myself, and yeah they may not be the most efficient, as long as you dont go crazy with the gains you'll be just fine. Been running my ixl for 2 years like that.
I have a Brutus BXI 1200 in my wifes' ride right now..been running for 6 yrs without heat or failure. HiFonics does not make them like that anymore, unless you go to the Brutus Elite. I set her system where she won't hurt it. It gets very loud with 2 15's and have not blown anything ..yet...But for someone starting out, and wanting good sound, to know that 1ohm is the most unclean and inefficient way to operate an amp is knowledge, bro

 
And you wish to risk another sub to inevitable clipping and distortion by lowering the amplifier resistance??....I am not trying to be an ***, I am strictly trying to inform you, so the same mistakes do not happen to the next sub... If the sub burned a coil, it was due to user error.You say you are new to Car Audio...many others here are too. I learn something new about it every day, and I had my first system in 1988.
I know exactly how I blew the sub, I was using a DMM for the first time, a tutuorial i found on this site didnt inform me that the bass level on the amp and certain options on the HU also increase the volts sent out, i measured volts with all settings off strictly on gain thinking thats all that affected the the volt out put. After I blew it i checked the voltage of the amp and it was about 10.5 more then i thought due to bass level on the amp and some options on the head unit. I wont make that mistake again.

Basiccaly im an idiot, but I do learn from my mistakes lol.

 
I have a Brutus BXI 1200 in my wifes' ride right now..been running for 6 yrs without heat or failure. HiFonics does not make them like that anymore, unless you go to the Brutus Elite. I set her system where she won't hurt it. It gets very loud with 2 15's and have not blown anything ..yet...But for someone starting out, and wanting good sound, to know that 1ohm is the most unclean and inefficient way to operate an amp is knowledge, bro
Yeah, but plenty of people have nice sounding ground pounders running at 1 ohm and below. Music is dynamic so the amp will see 1 ohm maybe 1% of the time. The rest will be higher. Unless that is he rides around listening to test tones all day, which I doubt.

 
I know exactly how I blew the sub, I was using a DMM for the first time, a tutuorial i found on this site didnt inform me that the bass level on the amp and certain options on the HU also increase the volts sent out, i measured volts with all settings off strictly on gain thinking thats all that affected the the volt out put. After I blew it i checked the voltage of the amp and it was about 10.5 more then i thought due to bass level on the amp and some options on the head unit. I wont make that mistake again.
Basiccaly im an idiot, but I do learn from my mistakes lol.
No, you are not an idiot. You did not know any better..I have tried to explain DMMing and it is a good way to set the gain..But always trust your ears..and if the amp is introducing 5% of distortion and cannot control the cone motion very well, you have a loose flabby sound that we just think we are supposed to hear and try to improve with box design and raw power...make anything loud enough and it don't matter. If you can do 1000 watts at 4ohms, or 2,(depending on the amp design) where the amp is most stable, clean and controlled, you will then know the difference.

 
All 3 are great subs. I would go with the fi but I'm partial to them and that's the only reason why. Next I would choose the icon then the hdc3. Have you looked into Ascendant audio? I suggest you do before buying. AA and fi are basically the same company and both make great subs. I have a havoc and it slams. They have other lines that might fit your goals better. Checkout sundown SA too. Great sub.

 
All 3 are great subs. I would go with the fi but I'm partial to them and that's the only reason why. Next I would choose the icon then the hdc3. Have you looked into Ascendant audio? I suggest you do before buying. AA and fi are basically the same company and both make great subs. I have a havoc and it slams. They have other lines that might fit your goals better. Checkout sundown SA too. Great sub.
I gave looked into them, they don't really fit my budget

 
Yeah, but plenty of people have nice sounding ground pounders running at 1 ohm and below. Music is dynamic so the amp will see 1 ohm maybe 1% of the time. The rest will be higher. Unless that is he rides around listening to test tones all day, which I doubt.
Depends on if you listen to Dub Step..lol..Take the Incriminator Audio IA 40.1 at 4 ohms it runs at 86% efficiency at 100hz with 900 watts output, less than 1% thd and 300+ dampening factor with 105db S/N....but it is a $1,600 900watt amp.

the AQ 3500D is rated at 750 watts @12v and 1400@14.4v, so to be fair, we'll call it a 1000 watt at 4ohm amp. It runs at 85% efficiency at 4ohms rated power with 1%THD and 250 dampening factor and 85 db S/N....it is a $800 1000watt amp.

The Alpine PDX M12 is rated at 1200 watts with a .01% THD and greater than 1000 dampening factor at 4ohms.It runs at 90% efficiency at 4 or 2ohms rated power...it is a $570 1200 watt amp.

just sayin'

 
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