New System 07 Charger

[justind]

Hello all. Great Forum. I have spent alot of time searching. I also went to a installer yesterday and here is what we are thinking for my system.

QSC210 4" Q Series Components with tweets. (4s inthe dash and tweets on the pillar)

QSC164 6" Q Series Midbass add ons for the front doors

MB QUART 6x9 Coax for the two deck lid speakers.

1 10" 4 OHM 300W Sub in a custom enclosure for the trunk

The shop wants to use a ALpine PDX-4.150 4 channel to power the tweeters, dash speakers, door speakers, and sub. They want to power the rear deck speakers from the head unit.

I have a dilema as far as what to use for a head unit. I have heard the Avic D3 and it sounds great. The shop is pushing the Kenwwod DDX8019 with the add on Nav. The only advantage of that unit I see is that it has has 5v preamp outputs vs the Avic's 2.4v. I know there is some debate on what difference that makes. My main concern is quality of sound. But after that, i really do like the D3 better as it comes with exactly what I need and my price will be about 1,000 cheaper.

My main questions are:

1) Is it worth the extra money for the DDX8019?

2) Is it a good idea to power the deck lid speakers with the head unit or is it worth the cost of a second amp?

3) I am really trying to get the price down fopr the overall ystem. The amp alone is close to $640. Is that amp overkill for what I need?

4) Do you have any othr coments or recomendations overall?

Thanks for the help fellas.

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[spoonraker 10+ year member]

The reason it's so expensive is because you're buying it from an audio shop, they mark stuff up ridiculously.

 

[mramazingx 10+ year member]

ebay ftw.

 

[justind]

Unfortunately i do not know how to install it myself. I dd compare some of the major units based on Ebay and they were not too bad.

 

[937DYTBOI 5,000+ posts]

i wouldnt even change the rear deck speakers if were u, jus run the OEM rear speakers off the HU, that will save you a few dollars.

Also just run a nice component set up front on a two channel amp and you should be good to go, speakers in the front dash FTL if its aiming and reflecting the sound off the glass.

 

[dkmesa 10+ year member]

I would go for the Avic-D3...I have a DDX-7017 and its awesome but my sister's Avic-D2 has a lot of cool features and I've heard even better things about the D3

 

[DARKHART 10+ year member]

Hello all. Great Forum. I have spent alot of time searching. I also went to a installer yesterday and here is what we are thinking for my system.
QSC210 4" Q Series Components with tweets. (4s inthe dash and tweets on the pillar)

QSC164 6" Q Series Midbass add ons for the front doors

MB QUART 6x9 Coax for the two deck lid speakers.

1 10" 4 OHM 300W Sub in a custom enclosure for the trunk

The shop wants to use a ALpine PDX-4.150 4 channel to power the tweeters, dash speakers, door speakers, and sub. They want to power the rear deck speakers from the head unit.

I have a dilema as far as what to use for a head unit. I have heard the Avic D3 and it sounds great. The shop is pushing the Kenwwod DDX8019 with the add on Nav. The only advantage of that unit I see is that it has has 5v preamp outputs vs the Avic's 2.4v. I know there is some debate on what difference that makes. My main concern is quality of sound. But after that, i really do like the D3 better as it comes with exactly what I need and my price will be about 1,000 cheaper.

My main questions are:

1) Is it worth the extra money for the DDX8019?

2) Is it a good idea to power the deck lid speakers with the head unit or is it worth the cost of a second amp?

3) I am really trying to get the price down fopr the overall ystem. The amp alone is close to $640. Is that amp overkill for what I need?

4) Do you have any othr coments or recomendations overall?

Thanks for the help fellas.

As far as the two headunits I say go with the D2 because you say it has everything that you need and want, the extra 2.6v of preamp output isn't worth spending an extra grand......

Run the setup the way they are suggesting is generally what people do when they are on a building budget...which is fine. I would add a second amp to power the sub when funds allow, so make sure that the shop run a large enough power wire the first time they install so making the upgrade will be fairly easy and less costly......

Don't listen to people gripping about shops marking up the prices of product, because when it comes to running a business and making it a profitable one then you have to pay to play especially if you don't know how to install yourself. There are plenty of benifits that come with having a shop install it, especially when you are dealing with a brand new 07' vehicle.......//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

1)go with the pioneer

2)power it from the head unit,use the stock speakers.

3)i would use the 4 channel for the dash and doors,buy a small sub amp from the savings on the headunit.

4)run 4 gauge the first time.

you can get that amp shipped for 400 on ebay.

 

[NeedDirections 10+ year member]

I would get what you can cheaper on ebay OR

woofersetc.com

onlinecarstereo.com

and then bring them to the shop to get them installed.

Are you not looking for a lot of bass? You are going to want to get a small mono amp to power the sub directly.

 

[justind]

Thanks for all the great responses.. I was also thinking it may be best to get a sperate amp for the sub. Maybe I should move up to a 12 for the sub with a seperate amp? If I did that, could I use the 4 channel amp to power the tweeters, 4s in the dash, 6s in the doors, and the 6x9s in the decklid or would that be pushing it?

 

[justind]

any other ideas? Would the 12 be more apropriate?

 

[bds0688 10+ year member]

A small mono on the sub would allow you to to either get a smaller front amp, 2 channel, or leave two channels open for expanding in the future. The rear fill will be fine off HU, and judging from the install, they will probably be able to tune the HPF and such for the rear fill, and fade em so they don't overpower and aren't useless either. As mentioned earlier, leave em OEM so you have some more bucks for a monoblock.

What do you listen to? A single ten can get pretty loud, and matches nicely with the power range you have for the fronts. It wouldn't flex body panels, but you would be heard. Depending on your money, the extra 50-100 a 12 would cost could go toward 0 gauge wiring or something like that.

 

[gl0ck 10+ year member]

Charger is easy, do it yourself. Canbus harness will be expensive though.

 

[justind]

A small mono on the sub would allow you to to either get a smaller front amp, 2 channel, or leave two channels open for expanding in the future. The rear fill will be fine off HU, and judging from the install, they will probably be able to tune the HPF and such for the rear fill, and fade em so they don't overpower and aren't useless either. As mentioned earlier, leave em OEM so you have some more bucks for a monoblock.
What do you listen to? A single ten can get pretty loud, and matches nicely with the power range you have for the fronts. It wouldn't flex body panels, but you would be heard. Depending on your money, the extra 50-100 a 12 would cost could go toward 0 gauge wiring or something like that.

I listen to mostl rock and some hip hop... I dont need anything that will rattle the car apart.. Just looking fr a good clean sound.. If I used the 4 chaneel amp, could i use one channel to each side for the 4s,6s, and tweets and then bridge the two remaining channels together for the sub? Then run the rear off the head unit? Is there any advantage to running all four channels to the fromt (1 for the tweet and 4 component and one for the door 6s on each side) and geting a seperate mono amp?

 

[justind]

When you talk about guague of wire, are you refering to the power wire or speaker wire. I was planning on using 16 guage wire. Is that not low enough?