NEP New England Providore Subs

Did not notice it was a single voice coil; kinda of sketchy for a new company with a beefy sub!! well here is their ebay link could be a good dealhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/NEP-12-Inch-Subwoofer-750-to-1200-Watts-RMS-Incredible-Sound-Quality-and-Impact-/332007200479?ssPageName=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT;

Never heard of them but they look well made. Too bad its a 2.5 inch coil and only comes in single 4 ohm. I would be very interested to see what they could do.
 
Meh, anybody can call up China and get whatever brand name they like printed on a woofer. Not saying it's bad or good without seeing them in person, but new "brands" of audio are a dime a dozen and barring someone inventing something really new, I'd suggest that everything has been done before.

Also there's quite a few really loud guys in Rhode Island, one of whom actually lives in Smithfield and I've never even heard them mention this brand. At the very least this company is missing the boat by not being represented whatsoever in the local competition scene, if nothing else just show up themselves and make some friends in the community and support the local events.

 
Hello everyone, my name is Dan and New England Providore is my company. I saw the posts about my subwoofer so I thought I would stop by and say hi. I will certainly not try and sell anything here, but I thought it might be fun to discuss subwoofer design since questions were asked about a few odd sounding choices for a car audio subwoofer. I promise there were good reasons! I am also interested in getting involved with the audio community mentioned above since I do live rather close to Smithfield, RI. This is something that I could use some help with. I have been involved mostly with speaker & subwoofer design over the past 13 years, and not so much with application. Anyways, I am always happy to discuss anything to do with audio equipment, and maybe some crazy experiments that I have going on, so I guess now is as good a time as any to get started on this forum.

 
To answer the questions about our coil design.

The coil was designed to minimize inductance. If you look at our 750W version, it has a 2.5" single 4 ohm coil with a 20mm Xmax. It has an inductance of 1.55mH. That is incredibly low! In combination with the two shorting rings inside the motor assembly, the end result is a super-smooth and accurate frequency response. I know that a 2.5" diameter coils seems small, and I know people do like dual coil designs, but I was not going for more of the same here. You can get this from any number of companies. I was designing for ultimate sound quality, and this is the coil that satisfied my requirements. You can certainly hear the difference once you listen to it. It is much more responsive to an EQ or DSP than most mid to high excursion subwoofers. You can do a lot to shape the sound, or just add a lot of boost if that is what you are after.

Xmax was intentionally chosen to be 40% longer than this subwoofer needs during its natural maximum excursion at 1200W RMS so you can add boost. The natural excursion you get with this design is lower than most subwoofers. This adds to improved sound quality. The less it has to move the cone, the more accurate it will be. Lower excursion at the same frequency under the same power will only help a subwoofer in the SQ department. We are currently doing some comparison tests with similarly priced subwoofers.

When it comes to heat: The motor assembly is very well vented, and the entire cone assembly acts as a heat sink due to having an anodize aluminum coil former and carbon reinforced pressed paper cone. The 2.5" coil can easily handle up to 1200W RMS all day long.

We will consider dual coil options down the road, and single 2 ohm is definatly a possibility, but there are a lot of things involved in changing the coil and still retaining the same characteristics that make this design work so well.

Another thing that we considered is that amplifiers generally have a lower level of output distortion at 4 ohms vs 2 or 1 ohm. All of these things add up to create a fantastic sounding system. The sub-bass blends very easily with the mid-bass, and you can play a much larger variety of music without having to constantly adjust your EQ settings. Everything sounds smooth with great impact, and yes, these do get pretty loud. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Dan

 
Very cool to have you respond here to this thread.

The issue I have, as well as many others here, is that power is cheap at 1 ohm and gets much more expensive at 4 ohms.

2 ohms, which would be a pair of your 12's - a common setup, I just couldn't afford to have 2,400 watts @ 2 ohms.

it seems that you are going for a budget SQ sub, that is not a huge market.

Have you been over to diyma? That group would be more into that type of setup. Currently Dayton is the goto sub for that niche.

I wish you looks of luck and keep posting here as it is cool to have a vendor involved on this board.

 
To answer the questions about our coil design.
The coil was designed to minimize inductance. If you look at our 750W version, it has a 2.5" single 4 ohm coil with a 20mm Xmax. It has an inductance of 1.55mH. That is incredibly low! In combination with the two shorting rings inside the motor assembly, the end result is a super-smooth and accurate frequency response. I know that a 2.5" diameter coils seems small, and I know people do like dual coil designs, but I was not going for more of the same here. You can get this from any number of companies. I was designing for ultimate sound quality, and this is the coil that satisfied my requirements. You can certainly hear the difference once you listen to it. It is much more responsive to an EQ or DSP than most mid to high excursion subwoofers. You can do a lot to shape the sound, or just add a lot of boost if that is what you are after.

Xmax was intentionally chosen to be 40% longer than this subwoofer needs during its natural maximum excursion at 1200W RMS so you can add boost. The natural excursion you get with this design is lower than most subwoofers. This adds to improved sound quality. The less it has to move the cone, the more accurate it will be. Lower excursion at the same frequency under the same power will only help a subwoofer in the SQ department. We are currently doing some comparison tests with similarly priced subwoofers.

When it comes to heat: The motor assembly is very well vented, and the entire cone assembly acts as a heat sink due to having an anodize aluminum coil former and carbon reinforced pressed paper cone. The 2.5" coil can easily handle up to 1200W RMS all day long.

We will consider dual coil options down the road, and single 2 ohm is definatly a possibility, but there are a lot of things involved in changing the coil and still retaining the same characteristics that make this design work so well.

Another thing that we considered is that amplifiers generally have a lower level of output distortion at 4 ohms vs 2 or 1 ohm. All of these things add up to create a fantastic sounding system. The sub-bass blends very easily with the mid-bass, and you can play a much larger variety of music without having to constantly adjust your EQ settings. Everything sounds smooth with great impact, and yes, these do get pretty loud. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Dan
What do enclosure requirements look like? Sealed and ported. This might be what I'm looking for without spending to much.

 
I designed them to work best in a 2.25 cubic foot vented enclosure tuned to 32Hz. They sound like they are in a sealed box, but play much lower. It's hard to tell that it is vented, and the lack of mechanical noise during excursion helps a lot too. Sealed is great as well but you will need some EQ to match the vented box for frequency response.

I know amps can get expensive... Maybe 2 ohm will be next on the list. The sensitivity is 88dB 1 watt, 1 meter on the 750W and 89 dB on the 400W so they use the power more efficiently than most. I have personally been using a 750W version with an old class A 750W amp, and it easily overpowers the rest of the system if you turn it up. I have no bass boost or eq running at the moment. Well, my point here is that 1500W RMS would be plenty for a pair. 2400W, even better.

The 400W was designed to be a great sounding lower price (Current MSRP $249.99) subwoofer and the 750 was the real SQ model. (Current MSRP $399.99) We do have them marked way down on sale right now though.

Thanks, I will keep posting!

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

 
Hello everyone, my name is Dan and New England Providore is my company. I saw the posts about my subwoofer so I thought I would stop by and say hi. I will certainly not try and sell anything here, but I thought it might be fun to discuss subwoofer design since questions were asked about a few odd sounding choices for a car audio subwoofer. I promise there were good reasons! I am also interested in getting involved with the audio community mentioned above since I do live rather close to Smithfield, RI. This is something that I could use some help with. I have been involved mostly with speaker & subwoofer design over the past 13 years, and not so much with application. Anyways, I am always happy to discuss anything to do with audio equipment, and maybe some crazy experiments that I have going on, so I guess now is as good a time as any to get started on this forum.
Welcome aboard. Recently all the audio competitions/shows in New England can be found at nadbl.org which is rebranded TNESPL and has pretty much merged with New England SPL, though it may be that Steve will continue to update events on New England SPL website.

My .02 cents on your philosophy: Low inductance isn't necessarily the end all be all of good sound. AFAIK there's more than one way to skin a cat there. Split gap, split coil, LMS coil are other popular distortion lowering x-max raising techniques and even underhung motors seem to do quite well. Shorting rings aren't new and have their place but from the debates I've seen on the subject have their own set of tradeoffs.

As others have mentioned, single 4 ohm coil is a hard sell in the 12V arena these days. I suspect a brick and mortar with a real salesman could sell single 4 ohm, but we are living in the age of the cheap class D Korean amp. Power can be had for 15 cents a watt and you want to build your 1 ohm stable amp robust enough to survive .5 ohm since every ******* who watches youtube is going to try it. Even amps that make max power at 2 ohm are rather rare these days, I expect largely due to the cost We're not going back to bulky and hot-running class A/B for sub amps for the sake of driving 4 ohm loads. The psychology is "I want to get every bit of power out of this amp" and virtually nobody buys a 4000W@ 1 ohm amp to run it for 1000W at 4 ohm with better damping factor and sound quality.

In the single 4 ohm arena the market is pretty much home theater/Parts Express/Madisound type crowd. You might find some high voltage guys at DIYMA forum but even there I suspect 1 ohm class D is or will soon be replacing that.

Also be very careful about 1200W power handling claim. If you call that "recommended amp size rating" you will probably be safe, but I'm very confident if you clamp a 50hz sine wave into one of those subs and clamp 1200W of power into it it will smoke quickly. Don't think that's realistic for real-world? Come to some of the SPL shows and see what passes for "music" and see what people who buy power cheap do with woofers.

Anyway, if you really wanted to sell something to the guys who like to run higher impedance, you'd do better to figure out a way to make an affordable amp that makes 1000W at 4 ohm with good enough protection to prevent guys from dropping it down to 1 ohm nominal counting on "rise" to get back up to 4.

Again, welcome aboard, it's good to have another enthusiast in the area and on this forum.

 
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Many such cases. This is the risk of dealing with a 1 man operation though, if something happens to the owner you're pretty well **** out of luck.
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