I'm brand new to all this so I did some research and just need some clarification on a few things...
I haven't landed on what amp I'm getting but I will use 2 different kicker amps to use as substitutes for other amps with similar specs.
Attached is my wiring diagram
PART 1
Figure 1(left):
I plan on getting two Kicker 6.75 subs(150w RMS 4 ohm DVC)
https://www.kicker.com/comp-rt-6-75-4-ohm-subwoofer with a Kicker amp
https://www.kicker.com/CXA8001-800-Watt-Mono-Class-D-Subwoofer-Amp. From what I understand, the 2 positive outputs are connected and 2 negative outputs are connected on the amp because its a mono amp not 2 channel. So given this...
- Is the wiring correct for 4 ohm load?
- If wiring is good, the amp is sending both speakers 150w each right?
- This works?
Figure 2(right): These are the same subs but now with a weaker amp
https://www.kicker.com/CXA4001-400-Watt-Mono-Class-D-Subwoofer-Amp.
- Is this wiring correct for 1 ohm load?
- If wiring is good, the amp is sending both speakers 200w each right?
- 200w is fine even if a little higher than sub RMS right?
- This works?
PART 2
Important part over, now just some general clarifications.
- I've read stuff like 4 ohm is clearer, 1 ohm is louder, and 2 is in between. Is this referring to the ohm load? or sub ohms? Are they even different enough at this power to even matter?
- Is it best to match the ohm load to the subs ohm or does this not matter?
- Given the two setups, the cxa400.1 is still less taxing on the car's electrical system right?
LASTLY: (if both systems work as I expect it to) Which out of the 2 setups would you choose?
Okay here it goes.
First, not going to cover wiring example 1, Don’t worry about series for now; it’s not relevant here given the equipment you want to use.
Figure 2(right): These are the same subs but now with a weaker amp
https://www.kicker.com/CXA4001-400-Watt-Mono-Class-D-Subwoofer-Amp.
- Is this wiring correct for 1 ohm load?
Example 2 gives you a 1ohm load and is correct.
- If wiring is good, the amp is sending both speakers 200w each right?
Technically the output will be equal to both (all woofers in this setup) and will be the sum total of the amp’s output at any given volume relative to the amplifiers rated power devided by the total number of woofers. The amp does not see 1, 2 or 5 speakers, it sees all woofers as one speaker when using a mono configuration like this.
- 200w is fine even if a little higher than sub RMS right?
You listed an 800 watt Kicker amp that is 1ohm stable and it will be fine in this setup, but we’ll cover other options that may give you more for the same $$ or the same for less $$, later. So yes, this amp will work; I just think there are better options for the money. I always run amps that are rated higher than my subs for reasons we can cover later if need be. There are a lot more options at the $299 price that this amp is going for.
This works? Yes, this will work fine.
PART 2
Important part over, now just some general clarifications.
- I've read stuff like 4 ohm is clearer…
The resistance rating (ohms) has nothing to do with the amps clarity. Good quality amps are clean, lousy quality amps are not.
- 1 ohm is louder, and 2 is in between. Is this referring to the ohm load? or sub ohms? Are they even different enough at this power to even matter?
Ohms are a measure of resistance the amplifier sees (referred to here as the impedance load) after all the woofers are connected to it.
A higher load (like 8ohms) = higher resistance read by the amplifier = lower output from the amplifier.
A lower load (like 1ohm) = lower resistance and the more output the amplifier will deliver.
Any number in-between is relative to the load the amplifier sees as stated in the afore mentioned examples.
- Is it best to match the ohm load to the subs ohm or does this not matter?
What matters is that once you know the impedance load of the sub configuration that the amp sees, you just need to be sure that the amp is stable at that impedance load, which this Kicker is.
Given the two setups, the cxa400.1 is still less taxing on the car's electrical system right?
Let’s not worry about the 400 watt amp, not thinking you're going to use it.
That said, this is where things get a little more complicated. Generally speaking, yes. A higher output amp or the combination of multiple amps output demands current commensurately; higher output, more current (amperage) is needed the higher the rated output is of the total demand for all the amps combined. Exceed the alternators ability to replentish that which is taken from the electrical system and you will tax the electrical system. The numbers aren’t linear or that simple though. It has to do with efficiency ratings and other things that I really don’t think you need to worry about with a 4 x 150 channel amp and an 800 to 1200 watt subwoofer amp and I'm guessing here but I bet that 4x150 is more like 4x75 anyway. It's also not driving power hungry suwoofers either.
Getting a big 3 upgrade and replacing your stock battery with the largest high quality battery you can squeeze under the hood and adding 1-2 farad high quality cap in line with the sub amp will suffice in this scenario. Unless your alternator is really puny, you should be okay. You will want to run 1/0 AWG OFC cable to distribution blocks and the appropriate 1/0 or 4AWG wire to the amps. You’ll need to fuse the leads at the battery (I use quick acting breakers under the hood) and fuses near the amplifiers, even if the amps have built in fuses. It’s more about protecting the wire from catching fire as it is protecting the amplifiers. Fuses/breakers are a lot cheaper than a car on fire!
Hope this helps.
