Need port size help

[proatv13]

hey guys I’m pushing today because I need some help. Recently switched speakers in my single cab Chevy to a Skar audio zvx12” with a dual 1 ohm VC. It’s got a DH drop in. so the box I have is too small for sure but trying to make the best out of it in the small space that I have. Right now the box is sealed and is about 2.4 I want to port it but I know there is a science to porting it correctly. That’s why I’m here reaching out because I know some of the smartest box builders are on here. I’ll post some photos of the box and the dimensions. If you can help me with what size port and where it needs to be I would greatly appreciate that. Please only comment if your here to give me a hand. I don’t have time to argue about how my box ***** and can be done better. Oh and the box is fully glassed in under the Vinyl. So it holds sound really good.

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Please only comment if your here to give me a hand.

I do not recall where I took this screenshot from, but the OPs conclusion was this formula:

As for port direction, the more experienced members on here agree on the side walls of a truck. The further from the driver the better.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

That box is a hot mess and does not have enough room for a correctly sized port for that sub. Trying to add a port will just make it perform like a leaky sealed box.

That sub is not suited to the particular application.

It would be advisable to start over from scratch and use a sub and box combo that fits the application with enough room left for correct airflow.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

with enough room left for correct airflow.

I've always wondered if those prefabbed underseat ported boxes actually work. I mean the ones with a chamber on each end and a bridge between them with a port in the center. One sub for it all. Seems very turbulent for some reason.

 

[proatv13]

I built it for a newer T1 and it sounded really good for a sealed box. It was about 2.4 sealed. The problem is the space in the single cab truck. I can extend it forward a little bit more if needed. As far as it being a hot mess I don’t know if I would go that far. I think it’s badass and you can’t even notice it’s in the truck. I don’t want the seat to be moved forward since in 6’3” and 260lbs. It’s my work truck so I didn’t want the passanger to be uncomfortable either so that’s why I built it so tall instead of wide. Both seats go all the way back and recline all the way back. It even goes up and comes forward I need you to half then up again to use all of the space underneath that dip

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

That's a tough one. That small ported models really peaky and needs 29" of port length with a 6" aero port to tune to 35hz. I personally would just build a full length wedge box with 2-3 8" subwoofers ported.

 

[SlugButter]

Ive always owned trucks for work, and had the same dilemma in all of them. your choice of subs that will work in small ported boxes starts to become limited. I agree with popwar on this one. The best sounding system I’ve been able to build in my single cab was 3 8s ported to the passenger side (Didn’t try porting to drivers side). I had numerous combinations of 10s and 8s over the years. The single diamond audio d6 10 was probably my favorite sounding sub, but the 3 DD 8s was definitely louder. I had some shallow mount 12s also ported back there that surprised me. Cheap ass pioneers. They didn’t sound too bad actually. Fitting the box is priority one in any build. The brand and size of sub is actually not that important. I’ve also stuffed big subs in small boxes behind my seats, and they were always super disappointing.