Need help with my setup

Hey so I am getting 14v to the amp but 0.2 is going to the subwoofers only
When you measure power from the amp for the subs, you switch to AC volts. You will want to play an 50 Hertz tone at your usual listening volume to see how much power is currently going to your subs. No subs connected.
 
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When you measure power from the amp for the subs, you switch to AC volts. You will want to play an 50 Hertz tone at your usual listening volume to see how much power is currently going to your subs. No subs connected.
Yeah no i had them playing music but I'll do the 50hz tone today
 
I have a 2010 jeep wrangler 4 door.

So I have a raptor 4 gauge amp kit I believe it's a 4gauge with a 100A fuse.. I have a 200a fuse I can put in.. So that's hooked up to the battery runs all the way to the bsck of my jeep where it goes into the distribution block and has 2 out one going into the 1000 watt amp and the other to the 3000watt amp for the subs. And the ground is the same.. Its grounded and goes to a distribution block aswell. I think it's CCA of OFC.. I have a stock alternator and stock battery 😬
I'm surprised no one said anything about your fuse. At 14.4 volts, a 100 amp current into a 2 ohm load can produce at most 2,880 watts. Your amplifier is not 100% efficient, so realistically you'll get closer to 2,500 watts or less from that 100 amp fuse before it pops. I'm not even sure that 4 gauge can carry 100 amps to begin with, depending on how long your wire run is. If you can play a continuous bass note for more than a couple seconds without blowing your fuse, you pretty much know for a fact that your amp is not producing rated power.

You're going to need 0 gauge on everything and a bigger fuse.
 
Is a
I'm surprised no one said anything about your fuse. At 14.4 volts, a 100 amp current into a 2 ohm load can produce at most 2,880 watts. Your amplifier is not 100% efficient, so realistically you'll get closer to 2,500 watts or less from that 100 amp fuse before it pops. I'm not even sure that 4 gauge can carry 100 amps to begin with, depending on how long your wire run is. If you can play a continuous bass note for more than a couple seconds without blowing your fuse, you pretty much know for a fact that your amp is not producing rated power.

You're going to need 0 gauge on everything and a bigger fuse.
200a fuse big enough? I'll be changing all the wiring to a 0 gauge.. If there is a bigger wire I can buy ill buy that instead.. Bc i want to add 4 skar zvxv2 d2 subs plus my speakers amp that's 4500watts.. Will I need a 12k watt amp for the 4 subs? With all 4 connected series/parallel should be 1ohm final load at amp. Any recommendations for the amp needed?
 

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I didnt read much, but make sure your using only one rca input, around 2.5v max, run low gain, no boost, and must use quality 0ga wire, some secondary power i.e. small Batt or a lithium cell near the amp and fuse at 250amp or 300 ANL style. Shorter Grounds is best. DO NOT use a preamp eq or line driver or processor between the source and before the amp unless you have experience
 
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I didnt read much, but make sure your using only one rca input, around 2.5v max, run low gain, no boost, and must use quality 0ga wire, some secondary power i.e. small Batt or a lithium cell near the amp and fuse at 250amp or 300 ANL style. Shorter Grounds is best. DO NOT use a preamp eq or line driver or processor between the source and before the amp unless you have experience
ty
 
The Max. Fuse for 4ga wire should be no more than 125 amps for a 15 ft run myself. read upon this to help out to understand wiring sizes and Fuse ratings per ft.

 
Issues: Small cheap wire, stock single battery, stock alt, sealed box.

Remedy: 2 runs (minimum) of 0awg each +/-, 2 batteries, high OP alt (275 amp min), big3 in 0awg, ported box. Focus on wire/electrical upgrades before changing/doing anything else in this setup. it'll be a complete night & day difference. Then upgrade the box and later the amp.

Some will agree and others disagree, but this is what "I" would do in your situation.
 
Issues: Small cheap wire, stock single battery, stock alt, sealed box.

Remedy: 2 runs (minimum) of 0awg each +/-, 2 batteries, high OP alt (275 amp min), big3 in 0awg, ported box. Focus on wire/electrical upgrades before changing/doing anything else in this setup. it'll be a complete night & day difference. Then upgrade the box and later the amp.

Some will agree and others disagree, but this is what "I" would do in your situation.
Forsure. I'll be buying some 4/0 Awg and lookin into a second battery and better alternator. Also have a friend making me a custom box with the specs needed for my subs. One question.. If I'm gonna be running a 8000watts rms taramp and a 2000 watts rms.. How big should I make my fuse? it's going from the battery to a distro block. Should I need a distro block with fuses? And which size fuses if so. 🤔
 
What amp is 2000w rms?
Oh no i was just throwing a number. But I am gonna buy the taramps hd 8000 1 ohm.. And ill have my speakers amp aswell. So tell me if this is correct. 8000+1300 =9300 watts.. So 9300/ 0.7 efficiency comes out to 13,285... So 13285 / 14v = 948 amps.. So am I looking at 950 amp fuse? Or that's not how that works? Lol
 
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Oh no i was just throwing a number. But I am gonna buy the taramps hd 8000 1 ohm.. And ill have my speakers amp aswell. So tell me if this is correct. 8000+1300 =9300 watts.. So 9300/ 0.7 efficiency comes out to 13,285... So 13285 / 14v = 948 amps.. So am I looking at 950 amp fuse? Or that's not how that works? Lol
You fuse the power wire for its capacity to protect the wire from failure.

Then then about 2 ft or less of you fuse each for what it's recommended

You wouldn't use 1 giant fuse that wouldn't protect from individual failures
 
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