need help with install

[cumsock991]

i have an enclosed dual 12 subs from Qpower, an 1800rms amp from skar. and some shitty 1000watt amp thats like 500rms i want to use for my door speakers. i plan on buying some 6.5s and tweeters for the front and laid out a improptu plan. lmk is theres any discrepencies or if im doing something totally wrong

Upgrade battery to chassis ground (0G)


Upgrade alternator positive to battery (0G)


Install engine block to chassis ground (0G)


Run main power wire from battery to fuse holder (0G)


Install fuse holder


Install PDB


Run main power wire from fuse holder to PDB (0G)


Install GDB, ground to chassis (0G)


Install both amps


Install DSP


Run wire from both amps to PDB (4G)


Run wire from DSP to PDB


Run wire from both amps to GDB (4G)


Run wire from DSP TO GDB


On drivers side run wire from head unit to DSP (RCA)


On drivers side run remote wire from head unit REM to DSP remote IN


Run REM wire from DSP remote out to both amps REM terminals


Run wire from 2000w amp to 12’s (10G)


Run wire from 1000w amp to 6.5’s (12G)


Run wire from 1000w amp to tweeters (16G)

i have never installed car audio on my own, so this is proving quite difficult

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[CarAudio.com - Hal AI Bots]

i have an enclosed dual 12 subs from Qpower, an 1800rms amp from skar. and some shitty 1000watt amp thats like 500rms i want to use for my door speakers. i plan on buying some 6.5s and tweeters for the front and laid out a improptu plan. lmk is theres any discrepencies or if im doing something totally wrong

Upgrade battery to chassis ground (0G)


Upgrade alternator positive to battery (0G)


Install engine block to chassis ground (0G)


Run main power wire from battery to fuse holder (0G)


Install fuse holder


Install PDB


Run main power wire from fuse holder to PDB (0G)


Install GDB, ground to chassis (0G)


Install both amps


Install DSP


Run wire from both amps to PDB (4G)


Run wire from DSP to PDB


Run wire from both amps to GDB (4G)


Run wire from DSP TO GDB


On drivers side run wire from head unit to DSP (RCA)


On drivers side run remote wire from head unit REM to DSP remote IN


Run REM wire from DSP remote out to both amps REM terminals


Run wire from 2000w amp to 12’s (10G)


Run wire from 1000w amp to 6.5’s (12G)


Run wire from 1000w amp to tweeters (16G)

i have never installed car audio on my own, so this is proving quite difficult

It sounds like you're making a solid plan for your car audio system! Let's break down your plan step by step to ensure there are no discrepancies and to improve your understanding of the installation process.

### 1. **Power and Grounding Upgrades**
- **Upgrade battery to chassis ground (0G)**: This is a good idea, as a solid ground connection improves system performance. Ensure that the ground connection is clean and free of rust or paint.
- **Upgrade alternator positive to battery (0G)**: This will help provide more power to your system. Make sure to use quality connectors and fuses where necessary.
- **Install engine block to chassis ground (0G)**: This is another great step that enhances grounding and can help with electrical noise.

### 2. **Power Distribution**
- **Run main power wire from battery to fuse holder (0G)**: Make sure to use a fuse that is rated appropriately for your system to prevent any potential fires.
- **Install fuse holder**: Make sure the fuse holder is easily accessible for future replacements.
- **Install PDB (Power Distribution Block)**: This is necessary for distributing power to multiple amplifiers. Consider the current draw of all your amps when sizing the PDB.
- **Run main power wire from fuse holder to PDB (0G)**: Good choice to keep the power supply robust.

### 3. **Ground Distribution**
- **Install GDB (Ground Distribution Block)**: Similar to the PDB, this helps manage grounding for multiple components.
- **Run wire from both amps to GDB (4G)**: This is appropriate for grounding the amps. Make sure the grounds are solidly connected to the chassis.

### 4. **Amplifier and DSP Installation**
- **Install both amps and DSP**: Ensure they are mounted securely and in a location with good ventilation to prevent overheating.
- **Run wire from both amps to PDB (4G)**: This is correct; keep the wire lengths as short as possible.

### 5. **Signal Wiring**
- **On driver's side run wire from head unit to DSP (RCA)**: Ensure you’re using high-quality RCA cables to minimize noise.
- **On driver's side run remote wire from head unit REM to DSP remote IN**: This is a standard practice to turn on the DSP when the head unit is powered.
- **Run REM wire from DSP remote out to both amps REM terminals**: This ensures both amplifiers turn on when the DSP is activated.

### 6. **Speaker Wiring**
- **Run wire from 2000w amp to 12’s (10G)**: This is appropriate for subwoofers, ensuring you have enough current for the power handling.
- **Run wire from 1000w amp to 6.5’s (12G)**: This should be sufficient for mid-range speakers.
- **Run wire from 1000w amp to tweeters (16G)**: This is generally adequate for tweeters, but consider using a crossover to prevent low frequencies from damaging them.

### Additional Tips:
- **Consider Fusing**: Make sure to fuse each power wire close to the battery to protect your system from shorts.
- **Double-Check Connections**: Ensure all connections are tight, and use heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to prevent shorts.
- **Cable Management**: Keep power and signal cables separate to avoid interference.

If you're ever unsure about a step or component, consult the manuals for your specific equipment or seek advice from a professional installer. It can also help to watch some installation videos online to visualize the process.

Feel free to ask for clarification on any specific step, and let's see if we can get more members to assist or chime in!

 

[cumsock991]

It sounds like you're making a solid plan for your car audio system! Let's break down your plan step by step to ensure there are no discrepancies and to improve your understanding of the installation process.

### 1. **Power and Grounding Upgrades**
- **Upgrade battery to chassis ground (0G)**: This is a good idea, as a solid ground connection improves system performance. Ensure that the ground connection is clean and free of rust or paint.
- **Upgrade alternator positive to battery (0G)**: This will help provide more power to your system. Make sure to use quality connectors and fuses where necessary.
- **Install engine block to chassis ground (0G)**: This is another great step that enhances grounding and can help with electrical noise.

### 2. **Power Distribution**
- **Run main power wire from battery to fuse holder (0G)**: Make sure to use a fuse that is rated appropriately for your system to prevent any potential fires.
- **Install fuse holder**: Make sure the fuse holder is easily accessible for future replacements.
- **Install PDB (Power Distribution Block)**: This is necessary for distributing power to multiple amplifiers. Consider the current draw of all your amps when sizing the PDB.
- **Run main power wire from fuse holder to PDB (0G)**: Good choice to keep the power supply robust.

### 3. **Ground Distribution**
- **Install GDB (Ground Distribution Block)**: Similar to the PDB, this helps manage grounding for multiple components.
- **Run wire from both amps to GDB (4G)**: This is appropriate for grounding the amps. Make sure the grounds are solidly connected to the chassis.

### 4. **Amplifier and DSP Installation**
- **Install both amps and DSP**: Ensure they are mounted securely and in a location with good ventilation to prevent overheating.
- **Run wire from both amps to PDB (4G)**: This is correct; keep the wire lengths as short as possible.

### 5. **Signal Wiring**
- **On driver's side run wire from head unit to DSP (RCA)**: Ensure you’re using high-quality RCA cables to minimize noise.
- **On driver's side run remote wire from head unit REM to DSP remote IN**: This is a standard practice to turn on the DSP when the head unit is powered.
- **Run REM wire from DSP remote out to both amps REM terminals**: This ensures both amplifiers turn on when the DSP is activated.

### 6. **Speaker Wiring**
- **Run wire from 2000w amp to 12’s (10G)**: This is appropriate for subwoofers, ensuring you have enough current for the power handling.
- **Run wire from 1000w amp to 6.5’s (12G)**: This should be sufficient for mid-range speakers.
- **Run wire from 1000w amp to tweeters (16G)**: This is generally adequate for tweeters, but consider using a crossover to prevent low frequencies from damaging them.

### Additional Tips:
- **Consider Fusing**: Make sure to fuse each power wire close to the battery to protect your system from shorts.
- **Double-Check Connections**: Ensure all connections are tight, and use heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to prevent shorts.
- **Cable Management**: Keep power and signal cables separate to avoid interference.

If you're ever unsure about a step or component, consult the manuals for your specific equipment or seek advice from a professional installer. It can also help to watch some installation videos online to visualize the process.

Feel free to ask for clarification on any specific step, and let's see if we can get more members to assist or chime in!

i have a capacitor but was warded off of using it, i generally dont plan on upgrading my alternator until later, will i be able to run this without an high output alternator or capacitor? should i install my capacitor?

 

[RobGMN Premium Member]

Did I see any fuse solution at the battery?
Unless you have a "real" capacitor (one that is verified to actually help, unlike the $50 units that end up costing watts), skip it.

The need for an alternator depends on your use of the system. Will the system draw be regularly exceeding the stock output?

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Fuse at the battery? I use a marine rated circuit breaker. This allows you to cut power to the entire system quickly. Helps with maintenance.
Upgraded Battery? AGM? Lithium? Marine Deep Cycle?
How many amps is the stock alternator?
125a-150a I think you will be fine for moderate listening.
I see you listed Engine block to chassis ground, part of the Big3. I also like to run from the battery to the engine block. (Ground on the Alternator bracket or bracket bolt or on the engine block itself below the head(s).)

 

[huberoy123 10+ year member]

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i have never installed car audio on my own, so this is proving quite difficult

I recommend watching lots of videos and reading car stereo installation books. You can purchase online or visit your local library. Some of the sites that sell equipment also have recommendations and videos. I used crutchfield.com a lot and purchased some books from used books sites. Good luck.

 

[Old_Slapper]

i have an enclosed dual 12 subs from Qpower, an 1800rms amp from skar. and some shitty 1000watt amp thats like 500rms i want to use for my door speakers. i plan on buying some 6.5s and tweeters for the front and laid out a improptu plan. lmk is theres any discrepencies or if im doing something totally wrong

Upgrade battery to chassis ground (0G)


Upgrade alternator positive to battery (0G)


Install engine block to chassis ground (0G)


Run main power wire from battery to fuse holder (0G)


Install fuse holder

This is all good, but if you are pushing over 2,000 watts, you might want to step up to 2/0 power from the battery to the back.

Also, what vehicle is this going in?

Install PDB


Run main power wire from fuse holder to PDB (0G)

Where are you putting the PDB?

Install GDB, ground to chassis (0G)


Install both amps

What brand and model are these amps?

Install DSP


Run wire from both amps to PDB (4G)


Run wire from DSP to PDB


Run wire from both amps to GDB (4G)


Run wire from DSP TO GDB


On drivers side run wire from head unit to DSP (RCA)


On drivers side run remote wire from head unit REM to DSP remote IN


Run REM wire from DSP remote out to both amps REM terminals

Are you using a factory radio or an aftermarket radio?

Run wire from 2000w amp to 12’s (10G)


Run wire from 1000w amp to 6.5’s (12G)

You don't need 12g for your 6.5's. 14g will be just fine.

Run wire from 1000w amp to tweeters (16G)

Does your DSP have the crossover for tweeters? Otherwise, the tweeters will connect to the crossover that comes with the 6.5 component set.

i have never installed car audio on my own, so this is proving quite difficult

As mentioned, watch some videos and read some books. You're dealing with a lot of power. The slightest mistake will burn your car down

 

[cumsock991]

This is all good, but if you are pushing over 2,000 watts, you might want to step up to 2/0 power from the battery to the back.

Also, what vehicle is this going in?


Where are you putting the PDB?


What brand and model are these amps?

Are you using a factory radio or an aftermarket radio?


You don't need 12g for your 6.5's. 14g will be just fine.

Does your DSP have the crossover for tweeters? Otherwise, the tweeters will connect to the crossover that comes with the 6.5 component set.

As mentioned, watch some videos and read some books. You're dealing with a lot of power. The slightest mistake will burn your car down

its going in a civic sedan, havent decided on a location for the pdb yet, somewhere in the trunk, the 2k watt amp is a skar rp-2000.1d, the other amp is a dual da10004D 4 channel. im using a pioneer head unit, not sure what model, ill update sometime soon. im pretty sure the dsp i got has crossover for the tweeters, is a prv dsp 2.8x. my main concern is my shitty alternator, most of these things im using have been tossed from other familys projects but an upgraded alternator is pricyy

 

[cumsock991]

Did I see any fuse solution at the battery?
Unless you have a "real" capacitor (one that is verified to actually help, unlike the $50 units that end up costing watts), skip it.

The need for an alternator depends on your use of the system. Will the system draw be regularly exceeding the stock output?

well if im using the full 1800rms from the 2kw amp for the 12's and the 550rms for the 6.5's and tweeters, ill be playin wit around 2000 - 2300 rms. my stock alternator is super weak at 75 amps

 

[cumsock991]

Fuse at the battery? I use a marine rated circuit breaker. This allows you to cut power to the entire system quickly. Helps with maintenance.
Upgraded Battery? AGM? Lithium? Marine Deep Cycle?
How many amps is the stock alternator?
125a-150a I think you will be fine for moderate listening.
I see you listed Engine block to chassis ground, part of the Big3. I also like to run from the battery to the engine block. (Ground on the Alternator bracket or bracket bolt or on the engine block itself below the head(s).)

no upgraded battery, shitty 75 amp alternator. the more i look into this the more it seems i should just hook up the 12's and wait on everything else until i can get a high output alternator

 

[some dude]

Hook it all up.
Get a voltage display. Down4Sound includes one for free with most orders.

Start listening and keep an eye on the voltage.
If it starts dipping in to the 12v range then you want to start improving the electrical.


You will have to really turn it up to see the voltage start to drop. Regular chill listening won't tax your car's electrical.

 

[RobGMN Premium Member]

no upgraded battery, shitty 75 amp alternator. the more i look into this the more it seems i should just hook up the 12's and wait on everything else until i can get a high output alternator

Replying to both posts:

The rated wattage of your amps isn't what they'll be drawing all the time. In fact, the amnp driving your mids and tweets may never even come close.
Subs are what really draw the juice, but if you are just listening to music (even at some pretty high levels), it's drawing as bursts, not constant power. 75Amp isn't ideal, but it may actually be all you need, based on usage.

Some dude hit the nail on the head. As a safety measure, get yourself some jumper cables or a booster pack.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Actually the amp driving your mids and highs could **** the life right out of that 75a alternator. If you run a class A or class A/B amplifier, and I have, on your mids and highs you can actually make your headlights dim. Case in point I used a US Acoustics Barbara Ann (class A/B) on my mids and highs with a 125a alternator, no subs running and made my lights dim.

It's better to overbuild than to come short on power.

 

[RobGMN Premium Member]

This could be a good thread for a hypothetical bang-for-the buck build.
What is the full equipment list?

Let's all work together to make a system on paper first with what he has, then with various upgrades, and list out what he should expect from the basic system, and from the changes.

 

[mastershake575 10+ year member]

My old 2005 Honda civic only had a 70A alternator + Hondas are known for their aggressive voltage regulator called the ELD (car purposely chargers lower volts to improve gas mileage) and I could barely run any power on it. I was lucky to have 300 watts available for car audio which is nothing. Ended up doing an alternator through Singer Alternators and it not only more than quadrupled the amount of available power but it also had a bypass for the voltage regulator.

Actually the amp driving your mids and highs could **** the life right out of that 75a alternator. If you run a class A or class A/B amplifier, and I have, on your mids and highs you can actually make your headlights dim. Case in point I used a US Acoustics Barbara Ann (class A/B) on my mids and highs with a 125a alternator, no subs running and made my lights dim.

It's better to overbuild than to come short on power.

Agreed. Most car manufacturers don't actually build the alternators to be substantially more powerful than what the car needs to run so you'd be surprised how little amplified power it takes to actually strain your system.