Need help with dual amp installation

[carfanatic95]

Hi, I have been wanting to install an all new stereo in my '94 3000GT. I have been doing a lot of research and think I have settled on all the main components. They are as follows.

Infinity Kappa 693.9i 3-way 6x9's

Infinity Kappa 609cs Component 6.5x6.75

Rockford Fosgate P3D212 12" sub

Pioneer GM-D8604 Amp

Pioneer GM- D8601 Amp

Here are the specs.

693.9i's - 110RMS/330Peak, 96dB, 2Ohm, 3-1/4" mounting depth

609cs - 90RMS/270Peak, 95dB, 2Ohm, 2-7/16" mounting depth

P3D212 - 600RMS/1200Peak, 85dB, 2+2Ohm

D8604 - 150wx4 channels @ 2Ohm

D8601 - 800w @ 1Ohm (wiring DVC sub for 1Ohm resistance)

So with that out of the way, I'm not sure what parts I need for the actual installation. I found a few dual amp kits on Crutchfield, but I'm worried they won't be able to handle the amount of power I need. What gauge wire should I use for the power cable, ground cables, and speaker wires? What about wire for the sub? Also, what amp fuse should I use? The 8601 has 2x 40A fuses and the 8604 has an 80A fuse. Going by this, would a 175A fuse on the power cable work? Should I put the fuse before or after the distribution block? Lastly, will I need a HO alternator? I don't plan on running my system at 100% pretty much ever, the loudest I'll go will be maybe 70 or 75%. My car has a relatively new alternator, and I believe the OEM alt is rated for 90A.

Thanks for any help, I've done a whole lot of research and these are really the only questions I still have. I think I understand the installation process itself, once I get all the parts I need it shouldn't be too hard.

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[bluemarvin3030]

One run of 0 gauge into distribution block, 4 gauge out to each amp. Fuse on 0 gauge equal to or greater than the sum of both amps. For ground use 4 gauge out of each amp to distro block, then 0 gauge to chassis ground.

What I would do. Someone else should come in with better suggestion.

 

[carfanatic95]

Cool thanks. Hopefully somebody can chime in about the alt, I really don't want to have to install a new one.

 

[CSCStang]

I would take a good look at the 9601 instead of the 8601. The 9601 is much more solid (what I'm running). As far as the alt, what's the amperage rating on it? My car has a 135 and because I'm at 1k watts, I don't get any dimming at all on the stock wiring.

 

[CSCStang]

I'm in no way suggesting you run on the stock. My system is all at 4 ohm, so it's easier on the system. I reread and saw your alt is 90, not enough juice imo.

 

[bluemarvin3030]

I'm in no way suggesting you run on the stock. My system is all at 4 ohm, so it's easier on the system. I reread and saw your alt is 90, not enough juice imo.

Would batteries help, or is his alt too small to charge them efficiently?

 

[fly_marlin]

The suggestion about the fuse being the size of both amps is incorrect. The fuse in line with power wire close to the battery is to protect the wire itself, not the amps. I think your amps have internal fuses for protection. If an amp does not have internal fuses, you will need to put additional external fuses very close to each amp and fuse rating should be in accordance with manufacturer's specifications. Please see the link below for chart explaining what size wire you need, length, and fusing to protect the wire:

Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes & Speaker Wire Size and Length

The site below is a great resource if you're looking to understand how things work in the world of car audio:

GlassWolf's Pages

Some references to brands are outdated, but the ideas explained still hold true.

 

[negolien]

I'd try a big three first then if it still is to much get an HO alt. That is if your dimming super bad after install. Might as well wait and see how it acts with the new audio equipment 1st. You also might want to look for some 693.11i's on ebay. Good choice on amps should be fine with them. You'll need to fuse less than 12" from the battery. 0 or 4 gauge will work for you. KnuKoneptz has a nice distribution block . You'll need one for power one for ground for a clean install Or you can skip the ground and just use a very good connection for both.

 

[fly_marlin]

I'm not trying to knock on anyone, but when it comes to wiring, even though there are many ways to do it - they all share the things that must be done. I'm not sure what "you can skip the ground" means exactly, but this should never be done. Grounding each amp is absolutely critical. The ground wire should be as short as possible to a metal surface in the car, preferably not painted (you can scrape off the paint). Ideally, you should not have amps share the same ground. I agree with negolien on the alternator though - install the stuff and if you don't have enough juice for the equipment, consider a new alt.

 

[carfanatic95]

Wow thanks for all the info guys. A little more research showed that the 3000GT's stock alt is rated for 110A, if my source is correct. I'll probably use the stock alt for now and do the big 3 and see where that puts me. I would really prefer not to get a HO alt, they are rare for my car and are $500+. I might have to replace the battery eventually, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

Would you guys recommend that I have two individual grounds for each amp, or run the grounds to the distribution block then have a larger wire to the chassis? Right now I think I'm gonna go with 0 gauge power wire with a 125A or 150A fuse, distribution block, 4 gauge to each amp and ground, 12 gauge to speakers, and 4 gauge to sub.

I'll read up on those links posted, and I'll be back if I have any questions. Thanks again.

 

[negolien]

I'm not trying to knock on anyone, but when it comes to wiring, even though there are many ways to do it - they all share the things that must be done. I'm not sure what "you can skip the ground" means exactly, but this should never be done. Grounding each amp is absolutely critical. The ground wire should be as short as possible to a metal surface in the car, preferably not painted (you can scrape off the paint). Ideally, you should not have amps share the same ground. I agree with negolien on the alternator though - install the stuff and if you don't have enough juice for the equipment, consider a new alt.

LOL no worries I meant not using a ground distribution box. A lot of people are fine just using ring terminals on a good ground. I personally have a distribution box for power and grounds.

 

[fly_marlin]

You can do a separate ground for each amp, will save you from having to buy yet another distribution block. You should really take a look at the chart I linked to above. Unless your power run is super long, you should be able to use a 300A fuse. Once you have determined that a given wire guage is sufficient for your current needs, you can forget the equipment - at this point you're protecting the wire. Here's a link to the fuse and you can get an inline fuse holder from them as well:

Silver Plated 300 Amp ANL Fuse - Merchandise

When you say 4gauge to sub - is that in regard to speaker wire? If so, you can just use the same size as for speakers. That or 10guage.

 

[fly_marlin]

I can tell you now that you will be fine using one 4ga power run with 8ga out of the distribution block, but if you plan on upgrading your stuff in the future - may as well spend the extra coin now. I have all knukonceptz wiring in my car, 0ga/4ga. If you need a recommendation, I suggest their kolossus power/ground wire and krystal rca.

 

[carfanatic95]

Just took a quick look at both links, definitely some useful info there. I will go more indepth later.

That's what I wasn't quite understanding, I thought the fuse near the battery was for the equipment, not for the wire itself. I'll take a look at Kolossus.

Just looked, their wire looks pretty good and isn't super expensive. Quick question, power wire and speaker wire are the same right? I would assume so, but you know what they say about assuming...

 

[fly_marlin]

A lot of amps have on board fuses, which protect them against excess current. Some do not, in which case you would need to fuse the wire between the distribution block and the amp. The fuse should be consistent with manufacturer's specification - I don't think you need to worry about this though since I think your amps come with fuses anyway.