Need advice on system build

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Gregavi

Junior Member
Hello,

I am planning my system build for my 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid. I have a couple of questions for the experts here. 1st, my equipment:

Pioneer AVH-4201NEX Head unit

Focal Component Speakers Front Doors

Stock Speakers Back Doors

10” Kicker Sub

Precision Power PC 2300 Amp (2/1 Channel Operation)

NVX JAD900 Amp (5/4/3 Channel Operation)

My questions are:

1. Should I use the NVX in 5 channel mode for the entire system and not use the PP amp, or use the NVX in 4 channel mode for the front and back door speakers and the PP amp for the sub?

2. If I do use the PP amp, should I run the main LR RCA cables to the PP amp first and let it do the Xover for the sub and then output it to the NVX to handle the front/back or let the head unit do the Xover. It has 3 sets of outputs, one for front, one for back and one for sub? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 
if u mean kicker comp the 5 channel is fine... also if it is a comp my advise is sell it and get a good sub that dont say kicker on it but yeah the nvx should do pretty close to rated power..

 
if u mean kicker comp the 5 channel is fine... also if it is a comp my advise is sell it and get a good sub that dont say kicker on it but yeah the nvx should do pretty close to rated power..
Thanks for the reply Boomer. I'm not sure which Kicker it is but it wasn't very expensive. It has a "K" with a red background. I've had it a few years and I think I paid around $100 for it. Likely in the Comp series.

What 10" sub do you (or anybody else) recommend. 10" seems like a good size and I already have the box, so I'll probably stick with 10". I am fully capable of building a box (I'm a carpenter/cabinet maker), but I'd rather not if I don't need to. Budget is not a big concern, but bang for the buck is always a consideration.

Thanks in advance.

 
Thanks for the reply Boomer. I'm not sure which Kicker it is but it wasn't very expensive. It has a "K" with a red background. I've had it a few years and I think I paid around $100 for it. Likely in the Comp series.
What 10" sub do you (or anybody else) recommend. 10" seems like a good size and I already have the box, so I'll probably stick with 10". I am fully capable of building a box (I'm a carpenter/cabinet maker), but I'd rather not if I don't need to. Budget is not a big concern, but bang for the buck is always a consideration.

Thanks in advance.
is this a sealed box? i always recommend a 12 if u have the space.. if u stick with that power u will need a light weight sub so unless u are gonna get a bigger mono sub amp u don't need to spend a lot on sub.. look at sensitivity rating (db rating) with that power u really want over 90 db.. 12" pioneer champ pro 3003 is great sub for $75 i was running about twice the power u have to it for months no problems it has 96db rating, takes 1.25 cf sealed box or 1.5-1.65 cf ported for power i had was great, u would want 1.8 cf ad ported for lower power.. there are many subs to look at but for your current power limits u and if u want to say sealed that limits u even more.. but install the 5 chan see if u like the kicker if not loud enough then u could look for a mono amp and bigger/better sub..

 
is this a sealed box? i always recommend a 12 if u have the space.. if u stick with that power u will need a light weight sub so unless u are gonna get a bigger mono sub amp u don't need to spend a lot on sub.. look at sensitivity rating (db rating) with that power u really want over 90 db.. 12" pioneer champ pro 3003 is great sub for $75 i was running about twice the power u have to it for months no problems it has 96db rating, takes 1.25 cf sealed box or 1.5-1.65 cf ported for power i had was great, u would want 1.8 cf ad ported for lower power.. there are many subs to look at but for your current power limits u and if u want to say sealed that limits u even more.. but install the 5 chan see if u like the kicker if not loud enough then u could look for a mono amp and bigger/better sub..
Yes it is a sealed box. I will take your advice and see how the NVX in 5 channel mode sounds with my current sub. Question tho, why are you not recommending that I use my Precision Power amp to drive the sub? It puts out 300 W RMS in bridged mono.

Thanks Tookoff. Question for you. Are you using the stock Head Unit on your Fusion? I ask because I waited 3 years for one of the dash kit companies to make one for the Fusion. Metra finally did. It cost me $400, but I think it will be worth it to finally replace my crappy/noisy HU. Just curious.

Thanks again guys.

 
Hello,I am planning my system build for my 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid. I have a couple of questions for the experts here. 1st, my equipment:

Pioneer AVH-4201NEX Head unit

Focal Component Speakers Front Doors

Stock Speakers Back Doors

10” Kicker Sub

Precision Power PC 2300 Amp (2/1 Channel Operation)

NVX JAD900 Amp (5/4/3 Channel Operation)

My questions are:

1. Should I use the NVX in 5 channel mode for the entire system and not use the PP amp, or use the NVX in 4 channel mode for the front and back door speakers and the PP amp for the sub?

2. If I do use the PP amp, should I run the main LR RCA cables to the PP amp first and let it do the Xover for the sub and then output it to the NVX to handle the front/back or let the head unit do the Xover. It has 3 sets of outputs, one for front, one for back and one for sub? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
bridge the nvx into 2 channel mode to your front components yes those focals will love every bit of power you put on them regardless of rms ratings and sound much better with it. Leave rears on stock head unit power(utterly useless). Use the NVX's 5th channel for the sub.

your head unit has 3 pairs of RCAs, two for front and rear and one for sub, you dont need to run any rca through any amp. Its all straight from the head unit to back.

Everything related to crossovers done on the head unit.

 
Thanks Jeff.

So you're recommending using the NVX only (don't use the Precision Power amp) in 3 channel mode, 2 for the front speakers, one for the sub and power the rears with the onboard head unit amp. I considered doing just that but wasn't sure if the onboard amp would work when the unit is in "Pre Amp" mode. I do mostly Home Theater and most AVRs will bypass the onboard amps when the pre outs are used (Pre Amp Mode). A guy at Crutchfield told me I'd be able to do it that way but he wasn't very convincing. I'll consider that setup. Just curious why nobody is recommending that I use my PP amp to power the sub.

Thanks again.

 
Thanks Jeff.So you're recommending using the NVX only (don't use the Precision Power amp) in 3 channel mode, 2 for the front speakers, one for the sub and power the rears with the onboard head unit amp. I considered doing just that but wasn't sure if the onboard amp would work when the unit is in "Pre Amp" mode. I do mostly Home Theater and most AVRs will bypass the onboard amps when the pre outs are used (Pre Amp Mode). A guy at Crutchfield told me I'd be able to do it that way but he wasn't very convincing. I'll consider that setup. Just curious why nobody is recommending that I use my PP amp to power the sub.

Thanks again.
Its needless space and hassle to run two amps. At two ohms the nvx does more power than that PPI amp. Pretty much useless to run it. It also has a subsonic filter over the PPI if you plan on running a ported enclosure. Overall downgrade using the PPI.

If its a pioneer head unit it should have the internal amp on all the times and it should have the option to turn it on and off. This is not AVR lol.

Literally you wont even need rear speakers at all, all it does is destroy your soundstage which should be up on your dash. Anything in the rear drags the sound stage backwards limiting width and depth and your phantom center will be off. Having it on head unit power is just a courtesy for passengers but if its just purely for your own enjoyment, i wouldn't even bother running rears at all.

 
Yes it is a sealed box. I will take your advice and see how the NVX in 5 channel mode sounds with my current sub. Question tho, why are you not recommending that I use my Precision Power amp to drive the sub? It puts out 300 W RMS in bridged mono.
Thanks Tookoff. Question for you. Are you using the stock Head Unit on your Fusion? I ask because I waited 3 years for one of the dash kit companies to make one for the Fusion. Metra finally did. It cost me $400, but I think it will be worth it to finally replace my crappy/noisy HU. Just curious.

Thanks again guys.
yeah the nvx sub channel has same power at 4 ohm as ppi and more power @ 2 ohm (does the sub have 2set of terminals on it?, if so u can't bridge that amp to it anyway)., do what jeff says most of us don't use rear speakers or just run them from hu (i'm taking mine out to let bass into car from trunk through the speaker holes in rear deck) get it wired up see how it sounds if u want more power to sub sell the ppi amp get bigger mono amp and different sub..

 
Thanks to everyone who replied. I bridged the amp to 3 channel and I'm running the system without rear speakers. It took a few attempts to wire it correctly in bridged mode because the diagram in the manual is incorrect. I spoke to a tech guy at NVX (Andrew) and it took him several attempts to get the wiring for bridged correct. He said very few people run this amp in bridged mode. Neither of us understood why people don't bridge this amp. He also said my sub (Kicker CVR104) is a really nice sub and they no longer make it. I'm always impressed when techs praise products from other companies. It shows they are not biased. Bottom line is, the entire system, including the sub, sounds great.

Cheers!

 
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Gregavi

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