Need Advice on New Amplifier

[jdubu]

Hello and Thank You for viewing this post!

I recently bought an 89' Ford Ranger XLT with a 350W kicker amp and two ten-inch (standard model) MTX Subs.

I installed the system myself but had a pro check over everything to make sure it was ok. I knew I needed a bigger amp to get the most out of my two MTX's. The Pro recommended an 1000W AMP at minimum, probably 1200W.

Browsing through amazon I found this subwoofer:

Pyle PLA2378 2-Channel 2,000-Watt Bridgeable Mosfet Amplifier

It's a bit bigger than advised, However I think that may be a good thing as I'm hoping to upgrade to a couple of Rockford's in the future. My question is this: Will I (LIKELY) need another battery or a HO Alternator to power the AMP? Even if I use it on low settings? What about a 1200W AMP? Would I be able to power that without further upgrades?

My truck has no problem using the 350W AMP of course, and my battery is good. The truck has had a lot of work done on it. It may, perhaps, even have a newer better-than-stock alternator installed.

Thank you for your help! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

Click to read more...

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

stay away from pyle,its a pyle of crap.

 

[jrdnhsnbrg 10+ year member]

I just installed a XS Power D680 battery and Hifonics BRX1600.1d amp and couldn't be happier, amp came with a Cadence 2 gauge wiring kit but I picked up some more 2 gauge wire from car quest for the battery install. Amp and wire kit was $220 and battery was $130, probably a grand total of $400 including the extra wire, fuses, and ring terminals. I can post pictures of you really want me to.

 

[jdubu]

stay away from pyle,its a pyle of crap.

Thanks for the advice. It's really strange that they are getting mostly good reviews on Amazon if they are so crappy.

Though I imagine you can't really expect much out of a $60-$70 amp.

However I really can't spend an arm & a leg on a rockford AMP as much as I'd like to.

Any suggestions on alternatives?

I just installed a XS Power D680 battery and Hifonics BRX1600.1d amp and couldn't be happier, amp came with a Cadence 2 gauge wiring kit but I picked up some more 2 gauge wire from car quest for the battery install. Amp and wire kit was $220 and battery was $130, probably a grand total of $400 including the extra wire, fuses, and ring terminals. I can post pictures of you really want me to.

First of all thank you for the advice. I saved that setup as I possibly may try and go for the same thing. Maybe I wouldn't have to upgrade the battery right away?

So far I have payed $170 for my current setup. $130 is not too bad for a decent battery. But around $200 is my max budget. Was thinking more like $100.

What is highest watt AMP you can usually use without upgrading from your standard battery?

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

i have a cadence dca1000.1 amp made in the usa 120 shipped

i have a cadence dca1000.1 for 120 shipped

Amazon.com: Cadence DCA1000, 1-Channel Class D Amplifier, Daytona Series, 1x 375 Watt RMS @ 4 Ohm Mono: Car Electronics

or an audio technix 800.1 brand new 145 shipped

Audio Technix AT 800.1 d - EMF Car Audio formerly Sundown Only

 

---------- Post added at 03:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:29 PM ----------

 

i would recomend the dca1000.1 its old school efficient power. im running it on a 85 amp alt with big 3 and thats it really nice amp

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

What is highest watt AMP you can usually use without upgrading from your standard battery?

This depends on the size of your stock alternator. Most vehicles can handle around 1000-1500w just fine with the big 3 done (just requires some wire, pretty inexpensive and easy to do)

For a 1000w amp, check out the following on a budget:

Audiotechnix 800.1 (its very underrated, actually puts out over 1000w)

Hifonics BRX1100.1

PPI Phantom 1000.1

PPI BK1300.1

BUT before you do that, consider building/buying a custom ported enclosure. The box is the most important part of your system and makes more of a difference than the amp. Buck sells designs and they're really not expensive at all. If you bought a design and built the box yourself, you could save a ton of money.

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

Hell ya, place local wanted 250 just for an enclosure.

 

[jrdnhsnbrg 10+ year member]

I am running an American Bass XFL 12" sub in a professionally built box and it is waaaay louder than the 2 CVRs I had in a prefab ported box. The box is a HUGE factor in the volume and tightness of your system. My box is 7.85 cu. ft. with a kerfed port and my whole trunk lid looks like it's gonna vibrate off with a 28hz signal. The box is crucial. Another customer of my box guy had a single 15 Rockford Fosgate P2 on 300W RMS and it trumped my system.

EDIT

Anyone who says a ported setup can't/won't sound as good as sealed is wrong. My setup is the tightest, cleanest, loudest single 12" system I've ever heard.

EDIT#2 I ran my Alpine MRX-M100 amp in 2 different cars for a year before I got my new amp. It only caused minor headlight dimming when I was in a low-RPM situation, such as when I was coming to a stop or stopped in gear. I have it for sale actually, $250 shipped. Will throw in a 5 farad cap for $10 due to the fact that I just wanna sell this stuff.

 

[jdubu]

Audiotechnix 800.1 (its very underrated, actually puts out over 1000w)

Hifonics BRX1100.1

PPI Phantom 1000.1

PPI BK1300.1

BUT before you do that, consider building/buying a custom ported enclosure. The box is the most important part of your system and makes more of a difference than the amp. Buck sells designs and they're really not expensive at all. If you bought a design and built the box yourself, you could save a ton of money.

Thank you all for the advice. I think I'll be going with the Audio Technix amp as I don't want to spend $500 right now on a AMP. By ported enclosure do you mean vented? The current box I have is sealed, but it's perfect size for my trucks back seat. Its a plastic box which I don't really like. But I was told by a pro that it's a nice box. There are Indented (sealed) cones on the back of the box. I'm pretty sure if I was to take the speakers off I could cut off the front of the cones with a dremel or something and make it into a vented box. With this bigger amp, is that a good idea? Will I blow the speakers without vents and will it sound better?

After I grab that amp I should buy 2 * 10" Rockfords to replace the MTX's...

I'm also using a very old deck... How big of a difference can I expect upgrading to a cheap-nicer deck than this old Clairon? Any advice on a good cheap deck?

Thanks again, you've all been hella helpful! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

theres these new(new to me atleast) pure audio 1500 watts rms amps. they are $150 brand new. ive been doing some research for them and seen that they have been tested and do clean power. the test thread is over on CACO and done by taylorfade on here. he tested the 3000.1 version and it did pretty good for the price. it has me curious on them as well.

 

[jdubu]

What does everyone think about putting 2 * Rockford Fosgate P1S4-10 Punch P1 SVC 4 Ohm 10-Inch 250 Watts RMS 500 Watts Peak Subwoofers in this box:

With that amp... the thought is making me drool.