Newbie needing advice on what I need to order

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KcContractor

CarAudio.com Recruit
I’ve almost got everything I need to get my system installed in this 2008 Cadillac CTS with factory Bose and Nav.

Installing JL 10W7 high output box, DS18 H-02 Hooligan amp, DS18 high/low converter, and 2 sets of Pioneer TS-Z65C 6.5" Component Speakers w/ tweeters.

need advice on good wiring, RCA’s, front and center dash speakers and anything else you would recommend to get this system sounding great.

Thanks!
 

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6.5's go into the factory holes, tweeters in the dash using 2 inch adaptores (or make you own from 1/4" harboard


Wiring for the speakers

amazon

NVX Professional Grade 100% OFC 16 Gauge True Spec EnvyFlex Speaker Wire - 75 feet [XWS1675]​


Wiring Sub is the 14 gauge in the kit is fine for anything 8 ft or less

Wiring kit

amazon

CT Sounds 1/0 Gauge OFC Complete Amp Wiring Install Kit, AMPKIT-0GA-ELITE​


12 gauge wire for the sub if you prefer

Amazon

NVX® True Spec 12 Gauge 100% Oxygen-Free Copper EnvyFlex Speaker Cable/Wire - 25 feet [XWS1225]​


or

Amazon

GS Power 12 AWG (American Wire Gauge) Flexible OFC Zip Cord Speaker Cable for Car Stereo Amplifier Remote Automotive Trailer Harness Hookup Wiring | 25 ft Red & 25' Black Bonded – Pure Copper​


4 Channel RCA, (one already in the kit is for the sub)

Amazon

NVX 5 Meter 4-Channel X-Series RCA Audio Interconnect Cable - 16.40 ft [XIX45]​


Fused distro

Amazon

Recoil MFH12 2 Way Mini-ANL Fused Distribution Block, 1 X 0/2/4 Gauge in / 2 X 4/8 Gauge Out Fused Distribution Block with 60A, 80A, 100A Fuses, Solid Brass for Maximum Power Transfer​


4 channel amplifier for the comps (just a few, take your pick or take other suggestions the will pop up)






Good Budget sensitive




 
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6.5's go into the factory holse, tweeters in the dash using 2 inch adaptores (or make you own from 1/4" harboard


Wiring for the speakers

amazon

NVX Professional Grade 100% OFC 16 Gauge True Spec EnvyFlex Speaker Wire - 75 feet [XWS1675]​


Wiring Sub is the 14 gauge in the kit is fine for anything 8 ft or less

Wiring kit

amazon

CT Sounds 1/0 Gauge OFC Complete Amp Wiring Install Kit, AMPKIT-0GA-ELITE​


12 gauge wire for the sub if you prefer

Amazon

NVX® True Spec 12 Gauge 100% Oxygen-Free Copper EnvyFlex Speaker Cable/Wire - 25 feet [XWS1225]​


or

Amazon

GS Power 12 AWG (American Wire Gauge) Flexible OFC Zip Cord Speaker Cable for Car Stereo Amplifier Remote Automotive Trailer Harness Hookup Wiring | 25 ft Red & 25' Black Bonded – Pure Copper​


4 Channel RCA, (one already in the kit is for the sub)

Amazon

NVX 5 Meter 4-Channel X-Series RCA Audio Interconnect Cable - 16.40 ft [XIX45]​


Fused distro

Amazon

Recoil MFH12 2 Way Mini-ANL Fused Distribution Block, 1 X 0/2/4 Gauge in / 2 X 4/8 Gauge Out Fused Distribution Block with 60A, 80A, 100A Fuses, Solid Brass for Maximum Power Transfer​


4 channel amplifier for the comps (just a few, take your pick or take other suggestions the will pop up)






Good Budget sensitive




Thank you! So do the tweeters replace these corner speakers in my dash?

And what would you recommend for the speakers behind the rear seats shown in the second picture?

The covers for my pioneer speakers for the door are a different shape than the factory ones..wondering what you would do there? And the rear door speakers are smaller: hoping the 6.5” will still fit.
 

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If you don't want to use tweeter pods or surface mount them in the upper door or piller if able, then you remove that cover and use the tweeter adapters to mount them in the dash. I would select mounting the tweeters last, once you have the gear in and can test location with the tweeters velcroed on the upper doors, a pillars or setting on the dash corners, once established then get what you need to install them relative to the location. I would defintaley recomend getting trim installtion tools, their inexpensive and very helpful!

Trim Removal Tool, 120Pcs Car Panel Door Audio Removal Tool Kit, Auto Clip Pliers Fastener Remover Pry Tool Set wit​

Doesn't have to be the 120 tool set, some of the basic ones have all you need so just look and get what has good consistent feedback ratings.

I would disconnect the center dash speaker altogether, no need for it.

As for ther rears, you h ave a coupl of options. You could do something like this in the doores

1704927453439.png


You could surface mount the tweeters slightly above the 6.5's on the door, b est to keep them as close as can be. You could also just use the 6.5 without the tweeters, strictly for rear fill between 150 and 3000 hz with the amp (provided the amp you get has a bandpass option for at least one of the chancels) as the crossover. This improves the overall listening experience in the front as it improves the staging but leaves a little to be desired in the rear, depends on is riding along and how often that is going to make a difference to you.

Those tweeters come with the option tot flush mount or surface mount.

1704927801935.png

1704927828456.png



1704927851035.png


1704927867131.png

1704927909423.png

1704927937623.png
 
I'd also recommend that at the very least, you deaden the doors with some sort of mass layer like this

Siless Max 120 mil (3mm) 30 sqft Car Sound Deadening mat - Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener - Noise Insulation and Vibration Dampening Material (30 sqft)​


Seems to be decent enough for the doors if that is all your going to do. I used about 3 of those packs on my Mazda 3, everywhere I could. I'd use it on all the doors and to line your trunk.

I understand that Resonix is the best out there, but in my opinion, if your going to invest that heavily into the project, you have to be committed to doing everything they recommend to achieve the ultimate result, just not for me at this juncture.
 
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KcContractor

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