i made a design...told him it was 30x14x14 tuned to the 36 hz he wanted...and he didnt wanna pay...
more like didnt want anything to do with this guy..did he agree to pay before you sent him the design?
omg dude go awaynothing to do with me...but yet he's the one asking for a .5 rise of impedence in the box design...maybe you sir are the one who needs to not be dealt with as you dont know enough about audio yet.
but obviously they found out you dont know much more than the average consumer who just plugs and plays...ive had quite a few car audio shops try to hire me for my install skill's and attention to detail....and thank you...
please do.oooh i c i c..
seth ima look into something for you bro but ive got to go run around for a while ill try and get back to you
here are a few pm's about why i should stay away from you..but obviously they found out you dont know much more than the average consumer who just plugs and plays...
you hook up your amp, sub, etc... get it all connected.
then you clamp the clamp meter on the positive speaker wire. ONLY on the positive wire.. and clamp it as close to the amp as possible. (i clamp about 2" from the amp terminal)
then you connect your dmm to the positive and negative speaker wires. pos to pos and neg to neg.
set your clamp meter to 100 or 200 ac amp range. whichever is the lowest your clamp offers.
set your dmm to 200 ac volts.
now, get ready to play some test tones...
as you playt your tones.. you want to play them long enough for the meters to stabilize thier readings.
you and your buddy should each be in charge of reading one meter. because it can be difficult to try and remember the peak you saw on each of them. (if you have a higher dollar clamp with PEAK hold (not data hold) then you can set it to hold the peak amperage it sees, then you only need to remember the ac volts)
after each tone, you should write down the peak ac amps and the peak ac volts.
now is the fun part.. the math...
acvolts X acamps = real watts used (this is the actual amount of watts your amp produced at that frequency and volume control)
acvolts / acamps = reactive ohm load (this is your REAL ohm load when playing that frequency.)
great you listened to what fatpat1080 and caps had to say. well all i can say is thanks for letting me know they are bad mouthing me and cant even post a score. i design all my own stuff and this past saturday was having a battery problem and at 9volts with impedence sitting at 2.5 (when it should be 1) i was still able to take 2nd in the 129.9 bass race class. but hey i dont know what i'm doing right.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gifhere are a few pm's about why i should stay away from you..
"dont waste your time using one of his designs. he has NEVER broken 130. and didnt even design the box he is using"
"i just dont want to see someone else blow something because of that idiot"
"hey jus lookin out for, dont use any design you get from cj407, he hasnt broke a 130 with his box, and he says he designed it, but he didnt. and make sure you dont pay for any design from him, if you want pm me the diemnsions and what all you want, and i can see what i can come up with free of charge, all you have to do is, stay away from cj407, he's full of shit"
& box building is not my fortae'..
sounds like you know what you are doing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif haha
right on man, i'll get it all figured out once i get the design, build the box, and start testing!i forgot to mention to you that you do know the impedance that the amp "sees" fluctuates accordingly to a whole slew of factors not only the box. many factors include the box, the amp, the battery, the alternator, the cabin of the vehicle, the trunk ,the windows and much more. i really dont want to explain it all but seriously its really inaccurate for a person to tell you that there design will provide a SET amount of impedance rise. The best way is trial and error. seriously. i have never sat down and calculated box rise due to most boxes being made are for dif. drivers for customers. the only real way to tell what ohm load you the amp would see would be to get so, a good digital multimeter and a good digital clamp meter and a pen and paper.now what to do
from ROE
so its really a long shot to try and say your going to get a set rise. i did this with my box and setup last week. i thought i had a 4ohm load on my amp when i tested and found it fluctuated from 6ohm's-3ohm's depending on the windows being up, all that crap