Lmao ain't a efficiency problem. 4 zv4 15s on a ab 750.1 does a 155sealed and when he added a 2nd 750.1 he does a 158.1 sealed.
And my other buddy has a pair of zv4 12s in 6cubes on a ct 7k and does 150db from trunk.
I had two nsv3 18s on my 8k at half ohm and my new build will have a 8k to each sub at .5ohm. They took the power fine in my last wall. The coils are long as shlt, prly helps displaceheat? Idk
Running a woofer with an amp which can make 4000W does not mean that sub is necessarily seeing anywhere near that. The zv4 coil is good, but not magical. 2500W is the power used by the largest element on an electric stove glowing cherry red. You really think a 3" coil will hold that much heat for long? I repeat my challenge, go ahead and clamp 2500W sine wave at 50hz to one of those Z coils and let me know how that goes for you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I83v3KrmQtA
I tossed a video up, its not the best but you can see the box/excursion.. I'm happy with the output, I just feel like the box is really holding the woofer back, But I wanted input from more experienced players before I went box hunting //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I agree completely, the woofer wasn't my first choice, however with a fresh re-cone and $400 shipped.. I couldn't pass it up
Likely you can gain from simply turning the box around firing into the trunk. Give that a shot and see if you don't notice more/better output. A new box may or may not help. IMO the specs on that box you have aren't terrible so it's hard telling whether you would really gain audibly from dumping 250$ into a custom box provided you keep the same tuning.
So what your saying is your challenging Jake in his experimentations about rms wattage to subs and whatnot? Is that what your saying? You have a disbelief against the guy that has brought the company to another level??
Maybe you need to take a step back and look at yourself for a second before you dig yourself a grave because I can guarantee you there's no winning an arguement agasint him if you decide to go that route. He has posted plenty of vids of diff subs taking a 3500 watt amp easy. Even an SA18 taking 2 3500 watt amps. That sub is rated for 600 rms.
SOME of his products are underrated. He said so himself.
Just because a buddy of yours or whomever has 4k going to a pair of so and so doesn't necessarily mean those subs are getting a full 4k...unless it's for comps/SPL/DBDrags.
Hope he see's this thread and comments about it. Maybe to shut you up.
I visited Sundown in Troutman and at the new location, had lunch with the guys there and specifically had a discussion about power handling ratings with Jacob. Unless you're telling me he lied to my face then I'm telling you the woofers he sells are honestly rated. This is the same way Eminence (the largest speaker manufacturer in the USA) rates their drivers; the ratings are clamped 50hz sine wave for 8 hours... or basically indestructible at that power ratings, which IMO is the only way to be really honest. Once you exceed these thermal limits and heat is building up faster than it can be dissipated you get into failure very quickly and exponentially faster as you increase power beyond that.
Do you really think that because a woofer can take 6000W tone for 3 seconds that it would survive that for 3 minutes? If it would survive 6KW for 15 seconds, 2000W for 1 minute, 1500W for 3 minutes, or 900W for 3 hours which is the honest power rating?
Just because your buddy knows a guy on youtube that runs a 3500W rated amp to a Z does not mean that sub is seeing even half that power ever. Nor does it mean that the next guy couldn't hook the same sub up to a 3500W rated amp and wind up with a situation where the sub actually sees over 3000W and fails in his first Young Jeezy song he tries to play.
I think you people really have no idea what power is, how it is measured, what those numbers really mean, or how a loudspeaker works.