My system keeps killing alternator(S) need help!!!

[66novals3]

So, I have a Ford f-250 with a 7.3 diesel. I'm running 2 high output rewound alternators (160 amps each) 2 brand new red tops, I have made 2/0 battery cables for everything. My system includes a rockfprd t-1000-BD pushing 2×12" Rockford subs (unsure of models, t-600-4 (unsure of door speakers) 1600 total watts. all wiring to the amps is 1 guage. This thing murders alternators even after adding a second one and upgrading all the wiring. I just had them rewound at a reputable auto electric shop for 160 amps output each. I can maintain 14.2 driving with volume near max. I don't crank it at idle because of the low rpm of the diesel a medium volume can deplete to battery voltage12.6v but won't go lowered than that. I have a feeling they are yet again going out. Even without the stereo the regulators are slow to respond after voltage drop from coming to a stop. I'm literally going nuts. I'm a noob so please forgive my lack of knowledge. SOMEONE HELP ME! TIA

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

So, I have a Ford f-250 with a 7.3 diesel. I'm running 2 high output rewound alternators (160 amps each) 2 brand new red tops, I have made 2/0 battery cables for everything. My system includes a rockfprd t-1000-BD pushing 2×12" Rockford subs (unsure of models, t-600-4 (unsure of door speakers) 1600 total watts. all wiring to the amps is 1 guage. This thing murders alternators even after adding a second one and upgrading all the wiring. I just had them rewound at a reputable auto electric shop for 160 amps output each. I can maintain 14.2 driving with volume near max. I don't crank it at idle because of the low rpm of the diesel a medium volume can deplete to battery voltage12.6v but won't go lowered than that. I have a feeling they are yet again going out. Even without the stereo the regulators are slow to respond after voltage drop from coming to a stop. I'm literally going nuts. I'm a noob so please forgive my lack of knowledge. SOMEONE HELP ME! TIA

This might be your problem. After the alts are re-wound to get higher output, is the same regulators still being used? Might have to upgrade those.

 

[66novals3]

This might be your problem. After the alts are re-wound to get higher output, is the same regulators still being used? Might have to upgrade those.

Yes, they are still using stock internal regulators. Aren't the regulators just for voltage output regulation? My voltage appears to be okay while driving. The regulator is definitely taking longer after start up to get to the 14v range. Tap the throttle and immediately it's at 14.2. My system draws up to 70 amps at full tilt.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Prob need a "faster" regulator to keep up with the demanding power. If that makes sense.

Is the big 3 done by chance?

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

The most likely cause of repeated alternator failures is excess voltage frying one or more diodes. The most likely cause of over voltage conditions are open wiring connections...especially if you have a faulty ,high resistance chassis-ground connection.(An intermittant connection will result in repeated surges through the diodes.)

 

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

You are not running a massive amount of wattage. So I am thinking that the whole alt thing might be overkill. Two alt = more strain on engine even if it is diesel. One good 200 or 300 amp alt would be better and adding extra battery would help some. You could have them on a trigger switch where they only engage when the amp is on. and charge them when your home. A loop to have dual charging options. while amp is on and driving and while at home..

Also check your gains on the amp.

Check all the power wire runs for bad connections or pinched wire.

I also agree on the diode getting too much voltage and frying.

If it was me, I would scrap those alts and get one solid H/O alt and everything else I mentioned. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Chris McNeeley]

Singer alts

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

You are not running a massive amount of wattage. So I am thinking that the whole alt thing might be overkill. Two alt = more strain on engine even if it is diesel. One good 200 or 300 amp alt would be better and adding extra battery would help some. You could have them on a trigger switch where they only engage when the amp is on. and charge them when your home. A loop to have dual charging options. while amp is on and driving and while at home..
Also check your gains on the amp.

Check all the power wire runs for bad connections or pinched wire.

I also agree on the diode getting too much voltage and frying.

If it was me, I would scrap those alts and get one solid H/O alt and everything else I mentioned. Better safe than sorry.

if i did 2 alt at that power one would be a 16v setup strictly for my car audio

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

TS1.8KW - Twisted Sounds

on 16v

TS150.4 - Twisted Sounds

Twisted Sounds TSX1000 12" sub - Twisted Sounds

2 of these

16v battery https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_88300_Kinetik-HC16V-BLU.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/xsp-d1600

 

[66novals3]

First off, thank you all so much for the replies, I really appreciate it! I'm getting sick of working on this more than enjoying it after dumping all this money into it. I DID NOT have any of these issues prior to the stereo installation.

Prob need a "faster" regulator to keep up with the demanding power. If that makes sense.
Is the big 3 done by chance?

Big 3 is not done per say. The factory cables have been upgraded to 2/0 cable. 2 engine grounds in 2/0, 4 gauge from engine to frame and 4 gauge from engine to chassis (those 3 are integrated into 2/0 from engine) the amp ground is 1 gauge but they used 2 stainless self taping screws for ground. Is that standard practice? Seems cheesy. They did clean it down to bare metal.

The most likely cause of repeated alternator failures is excess voltage frying one or more diodes. The most likely cause of over voltage conditions are open wiring connections...especially if you have a faulty ,high resistance chassis-ground connection.(An intermittant connection will result in repeated surges through the diodes.)

I have ohmed out all the cables and they check in at. 1 ohm.

You are not running a massive amount of wattage. So I am thinking that the whole alt thing might be overkill. Two alt = more strain on engine even if it is diesel. One good 200 or 300 amp alt would be better and adding extra battery would help some. You could have them on a trigger switch where they only engage when the amp is on. and charge them when your home. A loop to have dual charging options. while amp is on and driving and while at home..
These trucks came from the factory with 2 alternators. I agree it causes extra strain but should be fine if Specd from the factory this way. I like the idea of a trigger from the amp!

Also check your gains on the amp.

Check all the power wire runs for bad connections or pinched wire.

What should the gains be set at?

I also agree on the diode getting too much voltage and frying.

If it was me, I would scrap those alts and get one solid H/O alt and everything else I mentioned. Better safe than sorry.

Scrapping the alternators at this point is not an option. Hindsight is 20/20 but I have too much into this to throw away that much money.

if i did 2 alt at that power one would be a 16v setup strictly for my car audio

TS1.8KW - Twisted Soundson 16v

TS150.4 - Twisted Sounds

Twisted Sounds TSX1000 12" sub - Twisted Sounds

2 of these

16v battery https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_88300_Kinetik-HC16V-BLU.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/xsp-d1600

Bottom line, I cannot scrap all of this and start over, I don't have the funds to do so. If you guys had what I have what would you do to correct this issue?? At this point I maintain 14.2-14.3 while driving with the system maxed. After Coming to a stop with volume at medium it will drop to 12.8-13.5 & it takes a bit to get back up there. Again, I hit 1,000 rpm and boom, 14.2v

 

[66novals3]

Another note, the alt shop did not change pulley diameter. I'm considering going from a 2.5" to a 2.25 " which should eliminate my lower voltage at idle after stopping and charge better below 1000rpm. I calculated it and it would only increase alternator speed at redline by 1000 rpm, maxing it out alt rpm at 10,400rpm. I guess alternators should never exceed 15,000.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

IT be nice to know what is failing..

Rewound alts are horrible.. Besides what they are doing.. they are also installing MORE hardware in the same case resulting in the now rewound alt(s) having LESS cooling.

IT could very well be overheating to the point the rectifier just gives out..

FYI- Rectifier is #1 source where alts fail typically from abuse.

Getting a cheap Ho alt is like getting one rewound.. There are MANY ways to cut corners when designing or "upgrading" an alt and any corner cut can come back and haunt you..

IF all they are doing is just adding more copper in a sense.. then at this point, it doesnt matter what is failing.. Those alt(s) would be junk at this point.

Find out what is failing.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

can you just run 2 ad244's lol im not sure how they'll mount up but they're 200a each and cheap as **** from a junkyard. might be able to get a diff case (sell your alts and buy the ad244s for under $50 ea...)

i havent had a single alternator fail on my truck and i beat the **** out of them at idle(450a draw).. so i wonder what kind of design your alternator is that may be causing this. are they small case?

looking at what your voltage drop is, you're not that hard on them. try to get a dc clamp meter and see what kind of load you're putting on them at idle. if it's over 50a you might have an internal short somewhere or bad battery

my money is with shizzzon, heat is the ultimate killer but why, too small of a case? bad engine location? inherently small rectifier on that alternator design? lower diesel rpm = improper pulley ratios?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

When you say "they", who is they? I'm guessing you had someone or a shop do your big 3 for ya. If I'm reading that right, you have diff gauge wires for the big 3? Not good.

 

[SuperDuty350]

I went through five brand new alternators on my dually in the course of 2 weeks. We couldn't find a single thing wrong that was causing them to fail. I was putting them on myself charging battery before I put them on, and they just wouldn't charge. Finally got sick of it and took to Custom Truck and auto they slapped a new one in, it failed then put another on and it's been fine ever since. Sometimes they just fail. Luckily mine were under warranty