My Rainbow Powerline CS 275.27 thread

[filtor1 10+ year member]

Lookin' good sir!

Thanks Deja. I might be going to the river today. The lower Suwanee has two sand bars that I have frequented, a lot more since the boat wreck, and they get pretty crazy out there. Good times all around. If it doesn't rain at my house, I will try and knock out the drivers door today as well as get the amp hooked up. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

Well have fun out there man!

Can't wait to see some new pics and read what you have to say about them once you get them powered.

 

[filtor1 10+ year member]

Quick update, I didn't go to the river, it has rained all day. The passenger side is in and operational. I can tell right off that I am going to need more power. The sails will be redone, my first glass project. They sit at a very odd angle. I played the set full range and turned the subs off. They are asking for more power. The mids handled everything I had w/o issue. I will let you know some more when I get the drivers side buttoned up. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[filtor1 10+ year member]

Oh yeah, I almost forgot, the mids hit the door. I tried to leave the stock grill on and that didn't work either. I will need to cut the door and make some sort of panel for it, cover it in something nice, so it doesn't hit. I thought I had plenty of room, these mids proved me wrong. More trips to Lowe's I suppose. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[headless 10+ year member]

How much power are you pushing to yours?

Mine take 2x320w and love it.

 

[filtor1 10+ year member]

How much power are you pushing to yours?Mine take 2x320w and love it.

120x2 right now. I am not 100% sure though, as this is a very old Alpine amp. I couldn't find info on its rated output.

 

[filtor1 10+ year member]

Here are the rest of the pics...

Drivers door w/ deadener...

Drivers door w/ mid mounted...

All put together again...

 

[headless 10+ year member]

Note that the 'minimum amplifier rating' for the power line cs is 150w... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Be careful not to send it a clipped signal...

http://car.rainbow-audio.de/products/technical.php?lan=2&pro=1&lin=5

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Running them off the passive x-over?

Sensitivity of 90 dB?

I'd go at least 250w to each door, myself. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Just a word to the wise. Consider using screws less then the thickness of the top mounting baffle. If it's 3/4" MDF, then use 3/4" screws. Reason being with a high output driver like that, you might want to limit the amount of energy that would otherwise be transmitted through a long screw back to the door panel. Unless you've decoupled the entire baffle from the door steel, then I think you'd be ok.

You might also consider soaking that MDF in fiberglass resin or using some Rustolium or bedliner spray on them to keep them from breaking down.

 

[filtor1 10+ year member]

Note that the 'minimum amplifier rating' for the power line cs is 150w... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Be careful not to send it a clipped signal...
http://car.rainbow-audio.de/products/technical.php?lan=2&pro=1&lin=5

Yeah, I have the gains pretty low, I set them by ear for now. I made an offer on a zx850.4 but no dice. We shall see if that works out. I need to come up with $30. I know it sounds weak, but I did just buy the comp set. Was going to bridge it @ 4ohms 425x2. That should do the trick. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[filtor1 10+ year member]

Running them off the passive x-over?
Sensitivity of 90 dB?

I'd go at least 250w to each door, myself. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Just a word to the wise. Consider using screws less then the thickness of the top mounting baffle. If it's 3/4" MDF, then use 3/4" screws. Reason being with a high output driver like that, you might want to limit the amount of energy that would otherwise be transmitted through a long screw back to the door panel. Unless you've decoupled the entire baffle from the door steel, then I think you'd be ok.

You might also consider soaking that MDF in fiberglass resin or using some Rustolium or bedliner spray on them to keep them from breaking down.

Passive for now.

Sensitivity is 90 dB 1W/1m.

I used 4 screws to mount the first 3 rings, then another set on the final ring, and yet another on the drivers. I did that to eliminate exactly what you are reffering too. Do you think that method is effective?

I noticed the old rings I had were done for. would a latex based paint work, or should I go get some rustolium? I was suprised at how much the old rings had expanded and fallen apart.

 

[filtor1 10+ year member]

And just to say so, I am totally open to suggestions and criticisms. I am by no means an expert on this, I just enjoy doing it.

Especially if you have any input on building out the odd square section of the door panel where the stock grill is. I look forward to the project.

 

[mach999 10+ year member]

Looks great. So how to they sound? On a side note, you and I have the same car in the same color. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[6spdcoupe 5,000+ posts]

Running them off the passive x-over?
Sensitivity of 90 dB?

I'd go at least 250w to each door, myself. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Just a word to the wise. Consider using screws less then the thickness of the top mounting baffle. If it's 3/4" MDF, then use 3/4" screws. Reason being with a high output driver like that, you might want to limit the amount of energy that would otherwise be transmitted through a long screw back to the door panel. Unless you've decoupled the entire baffle from the door steel, then I think you'd be ok.

You might also consider soaking that MDF in fiberglass resin or using some Rustolium or bedliner spray on them to keep them from breaking down.

Nut Brudder ! Got your call, but you didnt leave a message. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Calling back soon I presume?

 

[6spdcoupe 5,000+ posts]

Passive for now.
Sensitivity is 90 dB 1W/1m.

I used 4 screws to mount the first 3 rings, then another set on the final ring, and yet another on the drivers. I did that to eliminate exactly what you are reffering too. Do you think that method is effective?

I noticed the old rings I had were done for. would a latex based paint work, or should I go get some rustolium? I was suprised at how much the old rings had expanded and fallen apart.

Chris, you could also just use knife inserts, this will Completely eliminate any contact between each ring. Alot of times if not predrilled the rings will make an attempt to seperate with large screws. It Will go through, but the attempt has been made thus potentially weakening the overall structure and opening you up for future possible seperation.

Although knowing you ...you wont wait to get the inserts. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif