My first "Active" "SQ'ish" build attempt.

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Made an overlay of all three drivers.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I have not one piece of sound dampening on my doors. None. After last nights readjustments, I am starting to get some noticeable midbass when the sub is muted. In fact, I played with it for a while with the sub off. I think sound dampening material would help tremendously with these SilverFlute speakers however, I don't think they are ideal for being in a door... something is just off about the sound they produce. They respond very very well to small EQ adjustments and their tone changes instantly but something seems odd about them. I will sound dampen the door eventually and see if that helps cure the weirdness that I can't put my finger on or if I will need a different type of cone.

What I am used to is an active set of near field studio monitors, literally 2.5ft away from me with an active servo subwoofer down on the floor and all I play is Hires audio through them. If I could get my doors to come close to the punch my monitors put out using 5.25" woofers with the 6.5" woofers the car has, I would be impressed and very satisfied.

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

I have not one piece of sound dampening on my doors. None. After last nights readjustments, I am starting to get some noticeable midbass when the sub is muted. In fact, I played with it for a while with the sub off. I think sound dampening material would help tremendously with these SilverFlute speakers however, I don't think they are ideal for being in a door... something is just off about the sound they produce. They respond very very well to small EQ adjustments and their tone changes instantly but something seems odd about them. I will sound dampen the door eventually and see if that helps cure the weirdness that I can't put my finger on or if I will need a different type of cone.

What I am used to is an active set of near field studio monitors, literally 2.5ft away from me with an active servo subwoofer down on the floor and all I play is Hires audio through them. If I could get my doors to come close to the punch my monitors put out using 5.25" woofers with the 6.5" woofers the car has, I would be impressed and very satisfied.

To me, it doesn’t make sense to put in aftermarket speakers and NOT put in deadener. It makes it sound worse than stock speakers. So much interference, you can’t even hear the actual speaker, you’re just listening to your door banging. The silverflutes are known to have good midbass so you are losing a lot of clarity just by putting it in a tincan beatbox machine. Also, you’ll notice when you use sharper slopes, it makes the midbass more pronounced so that is proably what you are noticing.

Keep the laptop handy because you’re gonna need to make little adjustments almost every time you get in the car. Take time to get used to each setting and do A/B comparisons. You can easily waste the whole day trying to figure this shiet out. Since your DSP can use bluetooth for tuning, you should take advantage of that so you don’t gotta clunk around a laptop everywhere you go. Welcome to the world of active tuning. It’s not gonna be a set it and forget it type of ordeal. Take the time to understand your system as a whole and play around with every possible adjustment you can. You wanna take this farther than you would have if you had went passive instead.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I don't have the Bluetooth dongle for the DSP... eventually I will. I have some sound dampening stuff here but it is some cheap stuff... I have my eyes set on some 117mil stuff. For now, I need to fix the gains on the 4 channel amp.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I just beat the dog snot out of the amp for a little over 30 min with different types of music at FULL VOLUME and it would not shut off. I can only surmise that before the adjustments last night, the input signal was clipping going into the amp... perhaps that was making it go into protect mode? The tweeters sound so damn good. They are off axis a bit but they sound tight.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Ok, how do I get this amp to stop with the loud POP through the speakers when power is cut to the amps??? This amp didndonuffin when it was in the Jeep. My sisters amplifier (The Quantum Audio Solar Series Amp) did not make a pop which narrows it down to the US Acoustics Amp. The only differences are as follows:

No longer using the Stinger 10 Farad Hybrid Capacitor
I am now using the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 DSP
This vehicle has RAP. Retained Accessory Power - As soon as the drivers door opens when the key is off, power is cut to the radio just like the factory had it except I am using a wiring harness from Axxess.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Thinking it over and over... I turn off the ignition - The radio continues to play - open the door and the radio turns off immediately - then a moment later, the pop through the mids and highs, not the sub. Turning the volume on the DSP or the Head unit down before opening the door does not stop the pop so the pop is independent of volume.

The Blue/White wire from the eXcelon (remote wire) goes to the Blue/White REMOTE IN on the DSP and the Solid Blue REMOTE OUT from the DSP goes to both amplifiers. Should I not use the DSP to turn on at least the US Acoustics amp? Yes, this makes sense... today I will rearrange that one remote wire. If it works or makes it worse, I will let you all know.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Didn't get a chance to rearrange the remote wire today but I turned off the head unit manually and as soon as power cut, it popped through the speakers.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I changed the order of the remote turn on wire... it was not the way I thought it was hooked up. I had it going from the head unit into the US Acoustics, out of the US Acoustics to the DSP and then from the DSP to the sub amp in a daisy chain. So it now goes from the head unit into the DSP then from the DSP to the amplifiers. It still pops. The next step will be to introduce back into the system the Stinger Cap. There was NO noise with this amplifier before when the cap was in line with the power. I also used the remote turn on from the Stinger to the amps on the previous install in the Jeep. Again, no noise, no pops or clicks.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Amplifier pop solved. Inside the RF 3Sixty.3 DSP under Device/Preferences/General is the selections for remote turn on delay AND remote turn off delay. I left the on to no delay and set the off to 4 seconds. It does not pop anymore.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

My right door mid has apparently been messing up since day one, no clue what the issue is anymore as it seems to have fixed itself. I thought I cut corners and didn't use spade connectors on its terminals. I did though.

Dig this, I have to disconnect my Alpine tweeter to remove the door panel so I decided to hook up my DD 2.75" to the tweeter channel at the door... I could barely hear it at the tweeters power level and crossover setting until I cranked that *****. It will play above 4Khz that's for sure lol. I wouldn't do that to the poor lil guy though. I bet if I take the 6.5" down to 700hz and the 2.75" down to 700hz and up... I wouldn't really "need" the tweet. As soon as I order the US Acoustics Wendy, I will run the 3-Way active.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

This US Acoustics Amp has **** itself again. Mother F&@^%@*$($(Q2@&($(!!!!!!!!

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Looks like it took my left Alpine tweeter with it when if **** itself and did its feedback ****. AWESOME!!!

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

And the hits just keep on comin!!! So when the amp **** itself and then did its feedback ****, it also went to my head unit and said give up the ghost *****!! The head unit works but when the balance and fade are centered... there are NO VOCALS. Huh??? I am just gonna breathe... US Acoustics is sending me a new amp, I will get a new head unit since that was the plan anyway and then I will replace the tweeter. It's fine... I am cool.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

99% sure my Kenwood head unit is crisscrossed internally and maybe even a little drunk so I have a sacrificial Pioneer head unit to throw in the G6 just to make sure the rest of the system is still functioning. I have my old Alpine MRV - F545 4 channel on my door speakers, the Fosgate is still on my subwoofer. I will run a single stereo RCA from the Pioneer to the DSP and then out to the amps. Since my Alpine tweeter is FUBAR I am using some JL audio crossovers on my SilverFlute 6.5" speakers as mids and the DD 2.75" speakers as large mid-tweeters. Tomorrow I will start messing with the stereo.