Mustang work log (with pics)

If its a small metal lump, I may do the same thing I did in my CRX back in the day... little sapurfalous bumps are easy taken down by a 5lb mallet... Just got to make sure they are not needed for suspention travle and such. Anyway, I'll cross that bridge when it comes, for now, power wire through the firewall, all hookups to the radio made. Should have put that in first post.

Radio = PIONEER DEH-P780MP PREMIER

 
Very interested in this I have a 2000. When dynomatting do you do everything except the opening to inside the car?
I bought this kit : http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5249_Dynamat+Xtreme+20%27+Trunk+Kit+19405.html

I wish I had about 2 or three more sheets, but I think I was able to hit most everything I should have. once I pulled the side panels off, there is some frame there near the wheel wells, you want to get in behind there so that your actually getting as much mat on those rear quarter panels as you can. Also, I tryed to get as much inside the trunk lid as I could. Small fingers help here... unfortunately mine arnt small and are now cut a little bit. whats a good install if you don't bleed a little though.

Basically go for any large flat area you see, as these will flex the most, and be more prone to vibrating and soaking up the energy being put off by your subs.

I should add though, this is actually my first time using dynamat, anyone with more to add... please do.

Heres some pics of the spots I was talking about:

Inside the wells

s5000502or8.jpg


Anywhere you can get to the skin of the trunk lid

s5000503sh7.jpg


 
I think there almost Identical actualy. theres a bracket your used to seeing, you can easily take the whole back seat out and it gives you like another 2 inches. take it out, insert box, put it back

 
Ha really? COuldn't get the back seat out, it was pissing me off! I have a haynes manual too and know exactly what to do to take it out. It's just in there so tight I can't get it out.

I wound up just build a shallow and wide box like the JL's for a single 10. That's all I have right now anyways. Just amp probs now, my output sucks for the amps ratings //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
well..... So far this round goes to the stang, had to knotch it in the corners.... Oh well, soon as my step dad gets back I'll try to push it in again... this thing is heavy. Gonna be pissed if I have to go sealed

 
Stang is playing hardball... so tommorow we dance. All right you can see what I am stuck with here..... so tommorow drop the factory amp rack and that stupid plastic enclosure for the rear 6 X 8s. Spin the box around, slide it in so woofers fire forward (no room otherwise) and see how she sounds. Pretty handy witht he wood and never tryed glassing somethign before, so may just get some fasteners, get it all done with wood, and carpet over.... I'll honestly just be happy to get it playing right though. heres what she looks like now though.

s5000514wb5.jpg


s5000515ac8.jpg


s5000516kn6.jpg


s5000517oj6.jpg


 
Yes, removing the 460 amp rack/box is a must, otherwise your looking at 11 inches tops! Take a hammer and have at it on the sheet metal that lines the top of the opening or if you have room slide the box in with the short side forward and then spin it back when you get it through. I would suggest firing the subs towards the rear. I have a mustang and have tried it both ways and the rear firing is louder.

 
rear firing would leave about 3 inches between rear of car and woofers, and the box completly fills the opening so its almost sealed off from the cabin if facing rear.

 
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