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Modern-Day Carputer [Need Suggestions on Audio Components]

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Valdosa

Valdosa

Junior Member
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McKinney, TX
I was going to post this in the Carputer topic, but the last post there was in 2013. I'm building a car computer and am new to car audio but very familiar with computer systems. I'm currently a full-time college student double majoring in Computer Science & Game Art while working full time as a heavy machine operator in a warehouse.

I'm looking for recommendations for alternate components for this build as well as an extra set of eyes to see if I missed anything important. I currently own the Pyles, Lanzer, and the Pyramid amp but am actively looking for better replacements that won't break the bank. (I.E. -$300 for all 4 door speakers, under $200 amp for subs, under $300 sub)

Recommendations on all components are welcome however.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

PC Components

Monitor + Case

​





TOTAL COST FOR PC COMPONENTS

$786.31 PRE-TAX

​




Audio Components

*Links Limited*

Door Speakers

​


  • Pyle PL683BL 6 x 8-Inch 360-Watt 3-Way Speakers
    $59.92 (Already Own)

    ​


    Subwoofer

    ​


  • Lanzar HBP212 1200 Watt Dual 12-Inch Bandpass Subwoofer System
    $124.78 (Already Own)

    ​


    AMP for Door Speakers

    ​


  • Pioneer GM-D8604 Class FD 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier
    $134.95

    ​


    AMP for Subwoofer

    ​


  • Pyramid PB717X 1,000-Watt 2-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier
    $40.02 (Already Own)

    ​


    Speaker Wire

    ​


  • Metra Electronics Stock/50 ft. 16 gauge speaker wire
    $13.99

    ​


    3.5mm to RCA

    ​


  • RCA to 3.5 10ft Premium 22AWG (Gold Plated) x2
    $7.56

    ​


  • RCA to 3.5 25ft Premium 22AWG (Gold Plated) x1
    $7.00

    ​


    Noise Filter

    ​


  • PAC SNI-1 x3
    $35.85

    ​


    Battery

    ​


  • XS Power D1200
    $205.99

    ​


    Power Cables

    ​


  • 1 ft Kicker PWB050-1 OFC 1/0
    $6.95

    ​


  • 40ft Kicker PWB8200-1 PFC 8 Gauge
    $59.6

    ​


    Fuse Holder

    ​


  • T-Spec V12FDB-124M
    $19.95

    ​


    Fuses

    ​


  • Install Bay IBR47 AGU Fuses 6-pack
    $4.99

    ​





TOTAL AUDIO COMPONENT COST

​



$721.46 PRE-TAX

​





TOTAL BUILD COST

​



$1507.77 Pre-Tax

​


Click to read more...
 
Do some research on that sound card and make sure it puts out enough voltage. Most sound cards (in my experience) put out minimal voltage.
Click to expand...
I'm actually running that sound card in my current PC. Are you saying that there might be an issue with the sound card getting the signal to the amp? While I did list 10 foot cables for the RCA I can probably use shorter cables to reach the first amp. I'm planning on having the pioneer underneath the front passanger side seat. As for the subwoofer amp in the trunk I'm not to sure what to do about that one.

 
I'm actually running that sound card in my current PC. Are you saying that there might be an issue with the sound card getting the signal to the amp? While I did list 10 foot cables for the RCA I can probably use shorter cables to reach the first amp. I'm planning on having the pioneer underneath the front passanger side seat. As for the subwoofer amp in the trunk I'm not to sure what to do about that one.
Click to expand...
Do you have a DMM? If so check and see what kind of voltage your sound card is putting out. If its under 2V your amp is going to have to work extra, extra hard if its even enough to push a signal to it.

 
I'm actually running that sound card in my current PC. Are you saying that there might be an issue with the sound card getting the signal to the amp? While I did list 10 foot cables for the RCA I can probably use shorter cables to reach the first amp. I'm planning on having the pioneer underneath the front passanger side seat. As for the subwoofer amp in the trunk I'm not to sure what to do about that one.
Click to expand...
You gotta abandon some computer related knowledge, get a clean slate and read up on head unit preouts and how you need to match it up with the amp via gain settings and do voltage tests with a digital multimeter. Pyle, boss, lanzar, pyramid are all bottom of the barrel stuff, never waste money on them again.

Single sundown sa 12 or 15, and a hifonics brx 1200 will outright destroy your lanzars. Research online and youtube to know what sundown/digitaldesigns/soundqubed/Fi/DC/incriminator audio is all about (real bass that sounds great). You NEED A CUSTOM ENCLOSURE. Box is everything when it comes to output and sound quality. You cannot just buy a pre made box and hope to god your sub will sound good in it, it does NOT work that way. You need a box that's Custom made for your sub and listening preferences. You most definitely cannot reuse that garbage bandpass box. Making a ported box is cheap if you do it yourself.

Grab a pair if alpine type R components for the fronts and type R coaxials for the rear.

Use knukonceptz or sky high car audio for wiring kits, thickest you can, its very good quality wire, their ofc is 4 dollars a foot for 1/0 vs horribly overpriced kicker wire.

Look into acoustical door treatments tweeter placements. Proper amplifier gain settings and so much more.

You might need liquid cooling for your cpu because the car is a hot environment especially in texas summers.

 
You gotta abandon some computer related knowledge, get a clean slate and read up on head unit preouts and how you need to match it up with the amp via gain settings and do voltage tests with a digital multimeter. Pyle, boss, lanzar, pyramid are all bottom of the barrel stuff, never waste money on them again.
Single sundown sa 12 or 15, and a hifonics brx 1200 will outright destroy your lanzars. Research online and youtube to know what sundown/digitaldesigns/soundqubed/Fi/DC/incriminator audio is all about (real bass that sounds great). You NEED A CUSTOM ENCLOSURE. Box is everything when it comes to output and sound quality. You cannot just buy a pre made box and hope to god your sub will sound good in it, it does NOT work that way. You need a box that's Custom made for your sub and listening preferences. You most definitely cannot reuse that garbage bandpass box. Making a ported box is cheap if you do it yourself.

Grab a pair if alpine type R components for the fronts and type R coaxials for the rear.

Use knukonceptz or sky high car audio for wiring kits, thickest you can, its very good quality wire, their ofc is 4 dollars a foot for 1/0 vs horribly overpriced kicker wire.

Look into acoustical door treatments tweeter placements. Proper amplifier gain settings and so much more.

You might need liquid cooling for your cpu because the car is a hot environment especially in texas summers.
Click to expand...
Hitting on the temperature thing... Liquid cooling might actually be needed OR go with Intel (i3) because the TJ Max (I'm assuming you know this term) is soooo much higher.

 
I'd agree that your weak link is likely to be your sound card.

Do please start a build log here and keep us updated on your progress. I love the whole car-PC thing.

 
You might look at these 2Din Car PC Mini ITX GEN4 | Barebone | Custom Gaming Computers

Or I would say ditch the sound card and get a board that has the better sound built in - Now don't get me wrong I have used Creative cards in the past for mastering some music for a friend (New Age) and they used to make some of the best consumer audio products ever made but I feel that anymore its just a name.

Anything with at least a Realtek ALC1150 audio chipset in it should be adequate enough for just about anyone except an audiophile.

You can also find boards that have the wireless and bluetooth built into them.

I was considering a E3IO but decided that I will save that for a future upgrade. For now I ordered a Pioneer AppRadio4 (AppRadio 4 (SPH-DA120) - Smartphone Receiver with 6.2" Capacitive Touchscreen Display, Apple CarPlay™, Bluetooth®, Siri® Eyes Free, Android™ Music Support, Pandora®, FLAC Audio Support, and On-Screen Access to Compatible Apps | Pionee) then depending on how I like it I might not bother upgrading. Can hardly wait till next week when I get it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
You might look at these 2Din Car PC Mini ITX GEN4 | Barebone | Custom Gaming Computers
Click to expand...
I could order that. But why? All of the fun is in figuring out how to make it work on your own.

As for the heat thing. I was thinking about that too. I'm going to have to wait and see how much room is left with the case after getting it. I may wind up having to custom build a liquid cooling system for computer. The problem that comes with liquid cooling is the fact that most pre-built systems use water and water freezes. Yes it's hot in texas but it is also below freezing too.

I'll do a voltage test on the card in my PC tomorrow to see what it puts out.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I could order that. But why? All of the fun is in figuring out how to make it work on your own.
As for the heat thing. I was thinking about that too. I'm going to have to wait and see how much room is left with the case after getting it. I may wind up having to custom build a liquid cooling system for computer. The problem that comes with liquid cooling is the fact that most pre-built systems use water and water freezes. Yes it's hot in texas but it is also below freezing too.

I'll do a voltage test on the card in my PC tomorrow to see what it puts out.
Click to expand...
They sell liquid that won't freeze with anything Texas can throw at it. People use it in custom stationary water builds that incorporate outdoor radiators.

 
Alright so here's a little update. I've ditched the Pc behind the screen idea and have decided to move it into the arm rest. There is much more space in it then behind the screen and allows me to properly attack a water-cooling system to the CPU. Moving it also means that the sound card only has to get the signal through two feet of cable before hitting the amp.

I've also changed the screen to a 9" SainSmart 9 Inch Raspberry Pi Touchscreen LCD Display+Driver Board With HDMI/VGA 3D Printing, Arduino, Robotics | Sainsmart

Now I need opinions: FRYS.com*|*KICKER OR FRYS.com*|*POLK AUDIO . The polks will be $60.99 after I get them price matched.

I’m getting the majority of the parts on Monday, the screen will come a few days after.

 
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Valdosa

Valdosa

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