Mids and Highs....Need help cause I am lost.
- Thread starter McCurry2k8
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what is your budget?(speakers, install, amp, wires+parts) What is your goal? Do you want really good/loud, or just something nice?
- Thread Starter
- #3
Budget I dont have one. Just remember all I want is a speaker in each door and 2 in the rear deck maybe a few more but I aint fiberglassing everything for audio competitions. I want good and loud, something when I turn it up people turn there heads to see where it is but when u set in it you are like wow this is amazing clarity and loud too lol. I just dont want the car full of audio equipment everywhere is the only thing. So what should I do?
A lot of the common brands people will recommend here are Rainbow Audio, Dynaudio, Boston Acoustics, MB Quart Q series, JL zr-1's
I personally run the Boston Acoustics Pro60's... Its one of their top line models... Boston is known for handling a ton of power for their components. Have a sharp tweeter, but is controllable. I'm not to sure with the other brands models, but they are used a lot.
I personally run the Boston Acoustics Pro60's... Its one of their top line models... Boston is known for handling a ton of power for their components. Have a sharp tweeter, but is controllable. I'm not to sure with the other brands models, but they are used a lot.
- Thread Starter
- #6
I dont need just the brands I need the style in that brand and size, you gotta understand I dont know what makes a mid and high different and how to find these parts. I'm not really looking to learn all about audio I just want a solid setup from someone who knows what they are doing. So can you give me a brand and the model numbers or mids and highs or anything more informative? Thanks
Kai Winters
10+ year member
plain ol' me
To find out exactly what size will fit where you want you can go to Crutchfield and use their "outfit my car" option. This is a handy tool to show what will fit, without significant modification, in the factory locations for speakers and head unit.
While you state you have no budget if you want advice and suggestions you need a starting point otherwise members can quote you a $10000 dollar system or a $750 system and would be a big waste of time and effort as well as confusing.
A basic system for an everyday driver...based on my experiences...would be a good head unit, component speakers in the door panels, a 10" or 12" subwoofer in the trunk and one amp to run the speakers. Forget about the rear speakers unless you must have them. Many, including myself, do not bother with them or use some good quality coaxials and use them only as/when needed.
The average mid sized car can usually accomodate 6 1/2" round component speakers in the doors. That allows the mid range driver in the stock location and the tweeter externally attached to the door panel as close to the mid range as possible. This may not be the prettiest and cleanest install for the tweeter but is the easiest to mount and the least costly in time and money. A good pair of components will cost you around $250 and will give all the clean sound and loud music you or your neighbors can stand.
The sub would be in an appropriate enclosure for its size. Expect to pay somewhere around $200 plus for a modest sub and box.
The amp would be appropriate for the speakers and sub. You don't need tons of power though more is usually always better. The quality of the amp is also very important. You can buy a 1000 watt amp at Wally World for under $100 and you would be throwing your money away. Figure to spend around $300 for a decent quality 4 channel amp, around 75 watts per channel to the fronts and the rears bridged to around 200 or so watts to the sub, to power two front speakers and one sub.
The head unit, as well as the other components, are subject to individual favoritism. Generally Pioneer and Alpine seem to be the most highly regarded though their are a lot of people that also favor JVC. Expect to spend around $250 to $400 for a good head unit with at least 2 pre-outs for the amp and other goodies that people just can't live without.
As you can see the above "basics" I describe will cost you roughly $1000. I have not included the wiring kit...$30 to $60...or a kit to house the head unit, should one be needed. Nor have I included labor, unless you will do it yourself, which is area and shop dependent.
You can certainly spend much, much more and get better sound but this is a good starting point IMO.
There are also other variables including buying gear online and shopping around...you can get some great deals online but as always "buyer beware", buying used gear is always a great way to get great gear at a very good price but once again "buyer beware".
So there you have it. A good system for an every day driver that does not require more than the stock battery and amp or more than average installation.
Good luck and keep us posted.
While you state you have no budget if you want advice and suggestions you need a starting point otherwise members can quote you a $10000 dollar system or a $750 system and would be a big waste of time and effort as well as confusing.
A basic system for an everyday driver...based on my experiences...would be a good head unit, component speakers in the door panels, a 10" or 12" subwoofer in the trunk and one amp to run the speakers. Forget about the rear speakers unless you must have them. Many, including myself, do not bother with them or use some good quality coaxials and use them only as/when needed.
The average mid sized car can usually accomodate 6 1/2" round component speakers in the doors. That allows the mid range driver in the stock location and the tweeter externally attached to the door panel as close to the mid range as possible. This may not be the prettiest and cleanest install for the tweeter but is the easiest to mount and the least costly in time and money. A good pair of components will cost you around $250 and will give all the clean sound and loud music you or your neighbors can stand.
The sub would be in an appropriate enclosure for its size. Expect to pay somewhere around $200 plus for a modest sub and box.
The amp would be appropriate for the speakers and sub. You don't need tons of power though more is usually always better. The quality of the amp is also very important. You can buy a 1000 watt amp at Wally World for under $100 and you would be throwing your money away. Figure to spend around $300 for a decent quality 4 channel amp, around 75 watts per channel to the fronts and the rears bridged to around 200 or so watts to the sub, to power two front speakers and one sub.
The head unit, as well as the other components, are subject to individual favoritism. Generally Pioneer and Alpine seem to be the most highly regarded though their are a lot of people that also favor JVC. Expect to spend around $250 to $400 for a good head unit with at least 2 pre-outs for the amp and other goodies that people just can't live without.
As you can see the above "basics" I describe will cost you roughly $1000. I have not included the wiring kit...$30 to $60...or a kit to house the head unit, should one be needed. Nor have I included labor, unless you will do it yourself, which is area and shop dependent.
You can certainly spend much, much more and get better sound but this is a good starting point IMO.
There are also other variables including buying gear online and shopping around...you can get some great deals online but as always "buyer beware", buying used gear is always a great way to get great gear at a very good price but once again "buyer beware".
So there you have it. A good system for an every day driver that does not require more than the stock battery and amp or more than average installation.
Good luck and keep us posted.
- Thread Starter
- #8
Well I was thinking I would go with a 12" MB Quart RMA-302 sub and a Alpine CDA-9885 cd player. Dont know what else yet. But you say dont use rear speakers? Dont understand why not. But I can tell you right now it will need modifications for the door speakers but that I aint worried about. And why run 1 amp for components and sub?
People dump the rear fill because there front stage is enough for them. It's a personal preference.
Why run 1 amp for components and sub? Although not many people do that, it would be the easiest way. Less wires, and less things to go wrong. The drawback is that not many multi channel amps can put out a lot watts needed for big subs.
- Thread Starter
- #10
If I put a sub in my car I want it to be pushed by enough power or what is the point. So I prefer not to go with the 1 amp for components and sub. I just dont want to not have a good even balance of treble and bass, that is the best way I can describe it lol. But yea is it necessary to run a amp to the components to get a even balance between bass and treble?
Yes, if you get a sub that is rated for 1000W RMS, why would you want to get an amp that only pushes 500W? In that case, why wouldn't you just get a 500W sub in the beginning, right? Whatever sub(s) you plan to get, make sure to get an amp that does more power than the sub, since some amps are overrated anyways. And get the sub first, then the amp. It will make life easier.
Uhh.. That doesn't really make sense either.
Yes. You don't want to drive around hearing boom boom only do you?
- Thread Starter
- #12
No I dont want the boom boom everywhere, I love music and its nothing without hearing the true beat and lyrics. The sub I was looking at was a MB Quart RWE-302 and what the site says is 1000w peak and 500w RMS. The MB Quart amp i was lookin at for it but I dont know what all the rms and peak is but it says 1 ohm 1000w rms and 2 ohm 500w rms? Is that good for a sub or to much? What company should I go with for mids and highs though and should there be an amp on it? What I was tryin to say was I want to be able to hear the boom boom and lyrics without one overpowering the other if that makes more sense
From now on, never look at the peak ratings again. Ever. That sub is rated for 500W. How many of them are you trying to get? If you're only going to get one, get the one that has DVC4 ohms. That way, you can wire the sub in parallel to get 2 ohm and get the most out of your amp.
Now for the amp. Since you're going to wire it down to 2 ohms, get an amp that does at least 500W @ 2 ohms. The one you stated should do the job fine.
For speakers, how much are you trying to spend?
Now for the amp. Since you're going to wire it down to 2 ohms, get an amp that does at least 500W @ 2 ohms. The one you stated should do the job fine.
For speakers, how much are you trying to spend?
Look at Hertz speakers
- Thread Starter
- #15
I'm only looking for one sub and my budget I want quality but I am not looking for competition quality. I want good sound quality to the average person. So you say go with the MB Quart Dual Voice Coil 4 ohm sub and that amp would work? I really dont want to put more than 1000 into subs, amps, and mids/highs unless I had too. But I am going to run an alpine cd player more than likely the x001 x100 or 9885. Not sure on which yet, thanks for the help though.
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