mid bass?

Thanks for the resources! So, is the pioneer hu I stated above active capable? I tried to find out doing a search, but I am still unsure.
Doubt it. I cant think of a single flip out HU that is active capable and there are very few double din units that are active capable. Even if it was active capabilities need to be coupled with time alignment capabilities and that HU doesnt offer T/A.

 
$300 for a HU with time alignment, superior internals, 7 band PEQ or 11 band PEQ, 4th order crossovers, etc is not going to be cheap. The Clarion DXZ785USB does all of those (except the 4th order crossovers) and is fairly cheap compared to other basic offerings from other companies.
Which is why i said active=expensive....

that clarion isnt sold anymore, and if its good or can do active, people arent selling them

 
Thanks! Everything you all have given me has been loads of help. I think for my first build I'm going to steer away from the mid bass, though, and stick with passive for now. It does sound like once I get a stronger understanding that active would be interesting to pursue, though. Once again, thank you all.

 
idk about you, but if the website cant even provide a picture, im not buying from them.

also osmith, mid bass is a term for bass at higher frequencies than a subwoofer plays. your speakers play it. you have speakers in your car right? they play mid bass.

u can have good mid bass, passive as well.

if you buy a set of component speakers, and an amp, u should have decent mid bass.

 
idk about you, but if the website cant even provide a picture, im not buying from them.
also osmith, mid bass is a term for bass at higher frequencies than a subwoofer plays. your speakers play it. you have speakers in your car right? they play mid bass.

u can have good mid bass, passive as well.

if you buy a set of component speakers, and an amp, u should have decent mid bass.
If you buy a decent set of components and properly deaden the door

 
Thanks! Everything you all have given me has been loads of help. I think for my first build I'm going to steer away from the mid bass, though, and stick with passive for now. It does sound like once I get a stronger understanding that active would be interesting to pursue, though. Once again, thank you all.
Active takes alot of time to tune. Thats why I didnt go active with my setup even though I have all the tools at my disposal to do so. You can still get a 6.5" mid in a component set and run that passive with the external crossover provided. Thats the route I took. If you do the install properly with sound deadener, filling gaps, and sealing things off you will get a good midbass response.

idk about you, but if the website cant even provide a picture, im not buying from them.
also osmith, mid bass is a term for bass at higher frequencies than a subwoofer plays. your speakers play it. you have speakers in your car right? they play mid bass.

u can have good mid bass, passive as well.

if you buy a set of component speakers, and an amp, u should have decent mid bass.
4.5 stars out of 5 and over 350 votes. If you dont want it then dont, but their ratings definitely show they are trust worthy.

 
Thanks Cruzer. I was not aware of that. What is a good component speaker you would suggest?
just depends on how much $ u wanna spend.

white dragon, i have like 10 refs on here, can i sell something without a pic? im sure that place is trustworthy, its just the point. how hard is it to put a picture lol

 
And for speakers, I'd like to speak on behalf of Pioneer D series speakers. I run them in the Jeep and I love them. They offer incredible midbass. I also have a set of Pioneer Premier TS-D520C comps for sale on here. PM me and I'll cut you a deal on them.

 
Running a fully active front stage, and having a strong midbass presence, are two separate subjects. Many times people go active to run a 3-way front stage so they will have dedicated midbass drivers (instead of relying on your midrange drivers and subwoofer), but you dont necessarily need a fully active 3-way setup to get relatively good midbass.

 
Going active doesn't get you any more midbass than using a passive setup. An active setup will only give you more tuning options as far as T/A, phasing, levels, and EQing, depending on your processor/HU. Active setups can be a pain in the ***. I'm still learning how to tune mine in my Caprice. Every time I take it out, I'm making adjustments. I get it to sound better and better each time, but it seems to be a never ending battle with it. I need to bite the bullet and get a good tuning software that comes with a good mic and is already calibrated for the mic.

 
That's not exactly true. Running a passive system does mean some energy is lost in the form of heat (through the caps 'n coils), so clearly running active WILL produce more output. I was simply saying you can get solid midbass without going active. I was not suggesting they would perform identically (even if we are simply talking about output intensity).

 
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