Melted Fuse Holder

[honda2001]

System had been working for over a year. Speakers started cutting out at higher volume. Then just stopped all together. Troubleshot the issue to the fuse holder. Tested system via connecting power wire directly to the battery, and it worked just fine. The fuse holder looks like it got melted on each end. The fuse was fine. It was not near a heat source, although I live in texas and my car is black so it gets rather hot under the hood.

Quick rundown on system:

8g power wire to distribution block-->>

10g wire 1000w Sony Xplode amp powering 2 6x9's 2 6.5's and 2 tweeters

8g wire 1200w Boss amp powering 750w Dual 10" Sub

My question is do I need a different gauge of wire and/or a different fuse holder?

Thanks!

View attachment 26553478View attachment 26553479

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[Umbra]

If the 8 AWG wire was copper then you'd probably be fine, but I highly doubt that it was. You're going to want better wire running to that distro block, either 8 gauge OFC or 4 gauge CCA (copper clad aluminum).

It didn't melt from the Texas heat, it melted because the wire couldn't handle the ampacity when you turned it up and got hot enough to melt the plastic. If that melted through or the jacket melted elsewhere it could short and cause a fire. Get some better wire and maybe replace that fuse holder if it's structurally compromised (the same type is fine, just make sure it's snug and makes a solid connection). If the connection isn't snug it causes resistance, or in extreme cases arcing - both of which cause heat.

Check out Knukonceptz wire, they make some great stuff at reasonable prices.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

System had been working for over a year. Speakers started cutting out at higher volume. Then just stopped all together. Troubleshot the issue to the fuse holder. Tested system via connecting power wire directly to the battery, and it worked just fine. The fuse holder looks like it got melted on each end. The fuse was fine. It was not near a heat source, although I live in texas and my car is black so it gets rather hot under the hood.
Quick rundown on system:

8g power wire to distribution block-->>

10g wire 1000w Sony Xplode amp powering 2 6x9's 2 6.5's and 2 tweeters

8g wire 1200w Boss amp powering 750w Dual 10" Sub

My question is do I need a different gauge of wire and/or a different fuse holder?

Thanks!

View attachment 26553478View attachment 26553479

Ive seen worse

 

[Massive spl]

Loose connection. U need to tighten your fuses and amp screws and battery terminals like 1 a month or better. I check my stuff every week. Bass makes vibrations and that wiggles things loose over time

 

[honda2001]

Thanks Umbra for your quick reply!

Yea the fuse holder is toast. Should I change the wire gauge that runs to the amps (8g and 10g) when I change out the distro block wire to 4g, or are those specs alright?

Thanks again.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Thanks Umbra for your quick reply! Yea the fuse holder is toast. Should I change the wire gauge that runs to the amps (8g and 10g) when I change out the distro block wire to 4g, or are those specs alright?

Thanks again.

id go with 4g and good connections

 

[honda2001]

Loose connection. U need to tighten your fuses and amp screws and battery terminals like 1 a month or better. I check my stuff every week. Bass makes vibrations and that wiggles things loose over time

Good idea. There were indeed lose terminals on both amps. Didn't realize that could cause a meltdown like that. Thanks.

 

[Massive spl]

If it was fine for a year it wasn't the wire size. I'm telling ya it got loose and heated up and melted it.

 

[honda2001]

id go with 4g and good connections

So run 4g through the entire system? Doesn't need to be a different gauge after the distribution block? TY

 

[honda2001]

If it was fine for a year it wasn't the wire size. I'm telling ya it got loose and heated up and melted it.

That makes sense. I never bothered to check the connections on the fuse holder. Think I'll just replace that and go from there, thanks guys for your help.

 

[Umbra]

If it was fine for a year it wasn't the wire size. I'm telling ya it got loose and heated up and melted it.

You're probably right, that was most likely the immediate cause.

Still, that wiring is questionable. Personally I'd just do it all in 4 AWG CCA. It's like $1 a foot. You can do the whole car for less than $30.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

So run 4g through the entire system? Doesn't need to be a different gauge after the distribution block? TY

with 2 amps 4g would work better...it can go into a distribution block...or 3 ring terminals with a screw taped up well if on a budget...to your smaller leads to go into each of your amps...

 

[honda2001]

with 2 amps 4g would work better...it can go into a distribution block...or 3 ring terminals with a screw taped up well if on a budget...to your smaller leads to go into each of your amps...

Gotcha. I'll make that upgrade when I have the $$. Thank you again for the info!

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I run 4 ga minimum in every vehicle Ive ever owned..And use XS ,or Stinger fuse holders..But for sure loose connection created the issue..I check mine every month,and terminals as well..road vibrations create and loosen connections over time

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Id recommend finding and using an ANL fuse block/holder as well..seem to be a bit better than what you are using imo