Massive S**T!!

Nice set up. That Digital Designs mid looks nice. I have never had a three way set up. I actually cross my subs at 250 hz. I've been told this is stupid but it sounds great to my ears. The subs have an aluminum dust cap so they can play those frequencies all day. I have mostly old school amps that have x-over defeat and use a variable passive x-over pre amp for the subs. My highs I use the passive ones. Blends just nicely.
Thanks. It's been a pain in the butt however it does sound better than a 2-way. My sub actually sounds better crossed over at 120hz in the enclosure it is in so I can see your sub being crossed over that high. It is not typical but hey, depends on the sub, your enclosure, your taste. When mine is at 120hz the bass guitar sounds so good but is overpowering compared to the midrange. It blends pretty good now going from 10" - 6.5"/6.5" - 2.75"/2.75" - 1.1"/1.1". The gains should be sending this power with sinewaves - 600w - 80x80w - 60x60w.
 
Nice set up. That Digital Designs mid looks nice. I have never had a three way set up. I actually cross my subs at 250 hz. I've been told this is stupid but it sounds great to my ears. The subs have an aluminum dust cap so they can play those frequencies all day. I have mostly old school amps that have x-over defeat and use a variable passive x-over pre amp for the subs. My highs I use the passive ones. Blends just nicely.
So what is it about a aluminum dust cap that gives it the ability to go up to 250 hz and still sound good over any other type of dust cap?
What subs/box are you using?
 
So what is it about a aluminum dust cap that gives it the ability to go up to 250 hz and still sound good over any other type of dust cap?
What subs/box are you using?
I honestly do not know, but have read other guys complaining about aluminum cones playing too high(Alumapro, Audiopipe). I have the Fosgates t0d412. Fosgate claims the aluminum is for better heat dissipation. But I remember reading somewhere that these subs played pretty high into the vocal range. I just went through the manual but found no frequency range. Also, the passive level/frequency controller says cutoff is at 250hz. Do not know how accurate that is. So my claim is a deduction at best. Always room to be so totally of target of course.
 
I honestly do not know, but have read other guys complaining about aluminum cones playing too high(Alumapro, Audiopipe). I have the Fosgates t0d412. Fosgate claims the aluminum is for better heat dissipation. But I remember reading somewhere that these subs played pretty high into the vocal range. I just went through the manual but found no frequency range. Also, the passive level/frequency controller says cutoff is at 250hz. Do not know how accurate that is. So my claim is a deduction at best. Always room to be so totally of target of course.
You can set it at 250hz but whether its actually playing up to 250hz is another deal completely, It might reach 120hz or so. Subs playing 200hz sound really disgusting, pretty sure your sub naturally rolls off after 120hz otherwise its not a sub, its a midbass driver.
 
You can set it at 250hz but whether its actually playing up to 250hz is another deal completely, It might reach 120hz or so. Subs playing 200hz sound really disgusting, pretty sure your sub naturally rolls off after 120hz otherwise its not a sub, its a midbass driver.
Oh. I always wondered how they were able to go low and yet go that high at the same time. Thought that I was wading into pro audio(concert speakers) territory. I know those play midbass and even voice. Thanks.
 
Got the second door done. Forgot the crossover pics from the left door so here they are for this one. They are mounted with 3M outdoor double sided mounting tape. The door was cleaned with 91% Alcohol. They are flush with that door brace and they are very secure. Breaking in the mids and tweets with full volume cause IDGAF. However, no distortion, no hiss... no nothing really. They just sound good.

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"Typing in a monotone voice" Driving around making deliveries today and my soundstage no longer sounds like it stops at the left A-Pillar. While the vocals are still centered above the radio on the dash the left side of the car now sounds like it extends out to the mirror. No more A-Pillar speakers. All the speakers are in the stock door locations and distances were re-done in the DSP. I am not going to say I am happy yet as I am waiting for a tweeter to blow or something.
 
So I was listening to some music really loud (Bat Head Soup - A Tribute to Ozzy) and I could notice that there were a lot of highs... when all of a sudden the tweeters rolled off in volume and got quiet!!! I turned the volume down to half and they came right back to life. I wanted to make sure I wasn't going insane so I gave her full volume and same thing! Ok, no problem. I guess the crossovers are protecting the tweets. Sounds good to me. This was the only album all night that made the tweeters go quiet though.
 
I only got one door done. It got dark and the skeeters were biting. That tweeter is quiet as it should be with my current EQ settings. I did a side by side so to speak listening to each door. The one with the "Alpine tweeter" is still very bright. This tweeter is much more natural. Tomorrow I will do the passenger door the same way.

Sub is crossed over at 90hz
Midbass is crossover 90hz - 800hz
Mid is crossed over at 800hz into the Arc passive crossover and the Arc tweeter is set in the passive crossover at 0db.

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They invented this thing called electricity awhile back, check into it. Skeeters? Hell no! Based on everything you've ever said about where you live there's no way in the **** I'd still be there
 
The thought has crossed my mind many times... however, I don't want to run more power and ground wires. I have been looking at 6 channel amps though.
Distribution block for power and ground....and some wire remnants for short runs ...way cheaper than six channel. Good six channels are stupidly expense
 
Distribution block for power and ground....and some wire remnants for short runs ...way cheaper than six channel. Good six channels are stupidly expense
LOL I don't even know if I have room for another amp. I actually have a perfectly good and fully functional RF Punch 250a2 just sitting here. Maybe I should just build that amp rack I was gonna build when I got the car... All my **** is just laying on the floor of the car where the back seat bottom used to be... I'd show ya. but it's embarrassing to look at.
 
LOL I don't even know if I have room for another amp. I actually have a perfectly good and fully functional RF Punch 250a2 just sitting here. Maybe I should just build that amp rack I was gonna build when I got the car... All my **** is just laying on the floor of the car where the back seat bottom used to be... I'd show ya. but it's embarrassing to look at.
Make it fit! Lol...that’s like 20$ total new investment to eliminate that rolloff then you can individually tune everything and get dedicated power to each speaker
 
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