Massive newbie. Please help me out.

You don’t have to get xs power batteries. Get agm technology in the biggest size that will fit in the oem and get a bigger on in back, group 31. It’s 2k watts he doesn’t need the jl audio of batteries
 
Okay thanks so upgrade my starter battery to basically the most powerful I can get/fit in the tray., AGM is that a standard battery from parts store or are they specific? Also what is group 31? My amp keeps cutting out as it currently is due to voltage drop so need to sort it
 
My drift car is a bmw if that counts and the mrs Mercedes is stop start, I’ll pinch her battery lol.

I think I’ve found the stem of the problem. The subs were prewired in the box when I bought it, I connected it all up and left it, i imagine they are wired at 1ohm (dual 4ohm dvc) which will then make the amp (apparently) in excess of 3k rms which probably explains my voltage drop. Hence why I haven’t been using the system until it’s all sorted. Once the box arrives tomorrow and wired correctly at 2ohm we will see how it gets on
 
New box is in, everything is connected up but no sound from woofer, touched the speaker cable on a 9v battery and the speaker moved so the wiring is connected up properly inside the box, amp has power as the light is on just no sound or movement from woofer at all

Subwoofer is wired up like so
 

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I’ve tested the RCA leads with continuity and it’s beeps when it should and doesn’t when it shouldn’t which is good. My multi metre is the same as picture below, where do I find VAC? And how do I test it? Put the pos and neg from multi metre in the respective speaker outputs on amplifier and play music and see if anything shows on the display? Really frustrating as it worked on the twin setup before I removed it to fit the new box.

Red Power light is on so the amp has power, just no sound being emitted.

I tested the subwoofer with 9v battery, touched the speaker wire and the speaker popped and moved as it should, that means the subwoofer is fine, correct?
 

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Set it to V~ 200V that is Voltage Alternating Current or VAC. Its how you measure the output voltage for an amplifier. @ 1200W you should be seeing around 80VAC coming from the Amp. If not check fuses or something happened to the amp during the re-install.
 
What is the resistance wired to on the subs? Make sure you're getting 12VDC+ at the remote turn on wire.

Set your DMM to V~ 200V that is Voltage Alternating Current or VAC. Its how you measure the output voltage for an amplifier. @ 1200W and gain set you should be seeing at least 30-48VAC on 1200 Watts depending on how its wired. (1 Ohm or 2 Ohm)

If you don't see that VAC on the speaker output then you'll need to double check amplifier fuses and if they're all good, sounds like something may of happened to the amp during install, or if you just purchased it, you got a bad amp.
 
I’m really hoping it isn’t the amp, i haven’t heard this enclosure in action yet and it’s really frustrating me now. I have two fuses one under the bonnet for the 2nd battery and one from the 2nd battery to the amp. If any of the fuses were blown surely the amp wouldn’t power up at all cause that would break the circuit yes?

Speaker is wired down to 2ohm. To match 2400@2ohm On the amp.

The amp has got power as the light is coming on, it’s red, but I can’t find any information if that’s protect Or power, generally it’s protect but I’ve found some other Orion amps that have a red power light. Just no output at all
 
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Correct. No output at all. Got a guy local to me that has repaired amps for years, really well known in the Audio Scene in the U.K. so I’ve been told, he’s going to go over my amp tomorrow and hopefully find and repair the issue. So frustrating finally get everything sorted, lots of money later to find out it doesn’t work!
 
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