Kastlez_
I would like to know this as well, but for angled mdf rings.
elancohen92
10+ year member
F**k yeah I drive a Soul!
cut out the 6.5" then cut out the mounting diameter inside the 6.5"
Bumpin' Goalie
10+ year member
Magic 8 Ball
It's a good idea to waterproof them if they're being used in doors.
Also, you can use HDPE (non-porous cutting board) as your raw material.
Best wishes.
Also, you can use HDPE (non-porous cutting board) as your raw material.
Best wishes.
RAM_Designs
5,000+ posts
SketchUp Master
Do 1/4" at a time to keeps your bit from wearing too quickly.
---------- Post added at 06:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
---------- Post added at 06:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
Okay, here's a mini guide:
-You'll want a plunge router. I use and like Bosch, and I get mine from Amazon and/or Bosch Tools | Bosch Power Tools | Bosch at CPO - I have the 1617. Ideally you should get something with variable RPM
-You'll want some nice bits. Do not touch Ebay bits. A good brand is Whiteside which is available on Amazon through a third-party, most of them are around $20-25/bit. You can go to your local home improvement store and buy Bosch or Porter Cable bits if you want something a little bit cheaper that's still good. Get 1/4" bits - smaller bits make less of a mess and if you decide to get a Jasper circle jig, it is calibrated for 1/4" bits.
-If you're doing plywood, you want spiral bits, preferably downcut. Upcut bits can give you chip out, so I recommend masking tape around the cut, at the very least.
-If you're doing MDF, you want either MDF-specific bits or spiral downcut bits. Wearing a mask is extra important if you're cutting MDF
-If you're doing HDPE, you can use the regular straight bits that are normally used for wood, but I recommend that you get the Whiteside plastic cutting bit on Amazon. If you use the regular straight cut bits then go over your surface two or three times because plastic melts and gets messy. If your router is variable speed, then turn it down to something kinda low.
-Always wear eye and ear protection. A mask is also a necessity for MDF. It is recommended for other wood and not really necessary for plastic since plastic throws chips, not dust.
-Clamps! I recommend a couple of heavy duty bar clamps and some spring clamps. For box building, btw, you should also get some corner clamps.
-You will probably want some sort of circle jig such as the Jasper 200, unless you want to just use a piece of wood attached to your router. I have done this... screw it down to the base plate and I just nail up into it. You can use a dial caliper to get a reasonably decent measurement of the radius of the cut, but it's still going to be less precise, at least until you get used to it. It takes more time, so decide if $30-40 on a jig is worth it to you. BTW, there's a guy on CarAudioClassifieds that claims to be working on making a higher quality version of the Jasper jig - I believe in metal. I just ordered some aluminum to transfer my Jasper jig to because I am worried about the plastic breaking.
Here's what you do:
-Clamp the piece down over a scrap piece of wood, and to your work surface. Try to keep the clamps away from where the router/jig will be, but for smaller pieces, you will need to move the clamps around as you go.
-If using the Jasper jig, drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the piece and insert the guide pin and then position the jig (attached to the router) appropriately. If using a piece of wood screwed to the router, use a nail coming up through the scrap piece, then through the center of your piece to cut, and then into the piece that's attached to the router. Set it up for the OUTSIDE diameter first! This is important!
-Again, set up for the OUTSIDE diameter, make sure your router will turn freely in the jig (be it your own or Jasper). If using your own jig and a nail, make sure that it's even - you can tap it down some more with the hammer if need be. Make sure there's no side-to-side play.
-Plunge through and go around... If your material is thick then do it in multiple passes, adding depth each time. If you're using plastic then go around 2-3 times to clear any plastic that melted. Make sure your piece is always clamped down in at least one point, even if just by a spring clamp.
-When done with the outside diameter, reset your jig for the inside diameter. This time, make sure that the ring portion of the piece is well clamped. Or you can even screw it into the scrap piece under it, and clamp that piece to the table. Just make sure you don't leave a screw hole where you don't want it if you do that. I don't use the screws - just clamps. If the clamps come loose, your ring will be loose when you finish, and it could screw the ring up.
Another note: for plastic speaker rings, ALL holes MUST be pre-drilled. For wood, you only generally need to pre-drill for relatively large screw sizes and/or if you are close to the edge of the wood. If you want to play it safe then just pre-drill all holes.
I do NOT recommend ANY MDF in doors. Metal is best but hard to machine. Plastic is second and is not much harder than wood (only a bit, because it melts). Plywood is third - especially if you get an exterior-grade plywood. MDF is garbage in any moist environment - you can find ways to treat it but it is NOT just a case of applying a coat of water seal, as MDF will absorb THAT in ways that you do not want it to. If you must use MDF, coat it with rubberized undercoating from your local auto supply store (e.g. Autozone).
-You'll want a plunge router. I use and like Bosch, and I get mine from Amazon and/or Bosch Tools | Bosch Power Tools | Bosch at CPO - I have the 1617. Ideally you should get something with variable RPM
-You'll want some nice bits. Do not touch Ebay bits. A good brand is Whiteside which is available on Amazon through a third-party, most of them are around $20-25/bit. You can go to your local home improvement store and buy Bosch or Porter Cable bits if you want something a little bit cheaper that's still good. Get 1/4" bits - smaller bits make less of a mess and if you decide to get a Jasper circle jig, it is calibrated for 1/4" bits.
-If you're doing plywood, you want spiral bits, preferably downcut. Upcut bits can give you chip out, so I recommend masking tape around the cut, at the very least.
-If you're doing MDF, you want either MDF-specific bits or spiral downcut bits. Wearing a mask is extra important if you're cutting MDF
-If you're doing HDPE, you can use the regular straight bits that are normally used for wood, but I recommend that you get the Whiteside plastic cutting bit on Amazon. If you use the regular straight cut bits then go over your surface two or three times because plastic melts and gets messy. If your router is variable speed, then turn it down to something kinda low.
-Always wear eye and ear protection. A mask is also a necessity for MDF. It is recommended for other wood and not really necessary for plastic since plastic throws chips, not dust.
-Clamps! I recommend a couple of heavy duty bar clamps and some spring clamps. For box building, btw, you should also get some corner clamps.
-You will probably want some sort of circle jig such as the Jasper 200, unless you want to just use a piece of wood attached to your router. I have done this... screw it down to the base plate and I just nail up into it. You can use a dial caliper to get a reasonably decent measurement of the radius of the cut, but it's still going to be less precise, at least until you get used to it. It takes more time, so decide if $30-40 on a jig is worth it to you. BTW, there's a guy on CarAudioClassifieds that claims to be working on making a higher quality version of the Jasper jig - I believe in metal. I just ordered some aluminum to transfer my Jasper jig to because I am worried about the plastic breaking.
Here's what you do:
-Clamp the piece down over a scrap piece of wood, and to your work surface. Try to keep the clamps away from where the router/jig will be, but for smaller pieces, you will need to move the clamps around as you go.
-If using the Jasper jig, drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the piece and insert the guide pin and then position the jig (attached to the router) appropriately. If using a piece of wood screwed to the router, use a nail coming up through the scrap piece, then through the center of your piece to cut, and then into the piece that's attached to the router. Set it up for the OUTSIDE diameter first! This is important!
-Again, set up for the OUTSIDE diameter, make sure your router will turn freely in the jig (be it your own or Jasper). If using your own jig and a nail, make sure that it's even - you can tap it down some more with the hammer if need be. Make sure there's no side-to-side play.
-Plunge through and go around... If your material is thick then do it in multiple passes, adding depth each time. If you're using plastic then go around 2-3 times to clear any plastic that melted. Make sure your piece is always clamped down in at least one point, even if just by a spring clamp.
-When done with the outside diameter, reset your jig for the inside diameter. This time, make sure that the ring portion of the piece is well clamped. Or you can even screw it into the scrap piece under it, and clamp that piece to the table. Just make sure you don't leave a screw hole where you don't want it if you do that. I don't use the screws - just clamps. If the clamps come loose, your ring will be loose when you finish, and it could screw the ring up.
Another note: for plastic speaker rings, ALL holes MUST be pre-drilled. For wood, you only generally need to pre-drill for relatively large screw sizes and/or if you are close to the edge of the wood. If you want to play it safe then just pre-drill all holes.
I do NOT recommend ANY MDF in doors. Metal is best but hard to machine. Plastic is second and is not much harder than wood (only a bit, because it melts). Plywood is third - especially if you get an exterior-grade plywood. MDF is garbage in any moist environment - you can find ways to treat it but it is NOT just a case of applying a coat of water seal, as MDF will absorb THAT in ways that you do not want it to. If you must use MDF, coat it with rubberized undercoating from your local auto supply store (e.g. Autozone).
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