looking for what you guys are running for sub amps?

RBarlow

CarAudio.com Recruit
Hello All, I would like to get A feel for what amps are being ran for your subs. I have two mint condition fosgate Hx2 12s in a huge ported box that i am going to be running in my 03 TL for now but, I am going to upgrade to sundowns down the road, so id like to buy an amp that will have room for improv down the road. the Hx2s only need from 250 to 500 rms but i been looking at 3000 watt rms amps so i will have plenty of head room, maybe even 5000 rms. Seems like taramps are what most are running from what ive been reading but would like to hear from ppl act using the products in their cars before i decide any and all help appreciated
 
Hello All, I would like to get A feel for what amps are being ran for your subs. I have two mint condition fosgate Hx2 12s in a huge ported box that i am going to be running in my 03 TL for now but, I am going to upgrade to sundowns down the road, so id like to buy an amp that will have room for improv down the road. the Hx2s only need from 250 to 500 rms but i been looking at 3000 watt rms amps so i will have plenty of head room, maybe even 5000 rms. Seems like taramps are what most are running from what ive been reading but would like to hear from ppl act using the products in their cars before i decide any and all help appreciated

I'm using a Taramps MD3000 and haven't had any problems at all. The Taramps Smart3K is the latest craze. Just make sure that your voltage is consistently between 12-15 volts. Taramps are pretty easy on electrical as well. Good luck.
 
Hello All, I would like to get A feel for what amps are being ran for your subs. I have two mint condition fosgate Hx2 12s in a huge ported box that i am going to be running in my 03 TL for now but, I am going to upgrade to sundowns down the road, so id like to buy an amp that will have room for improv down the road. the Hx2s only need from 250 to 500 rms but i been looking at 3000 watt rms amps so i will have plenty of head room, maybe even 5000 rms. Seems like taramps are what most are running from what ive been reading but would like to hear from ppl act using the products in their cars before i decide any and all help appreciated
I haven't personally used Taramps before, but they're probably the best bang for the buck on the market. They're a bit bare-bones on features in the lower range, like a lot of them don't have variable crossovers so be careful on that if you need one, but other than that they're great. I currently run a Rockford R1200-1D on a single Hertz SX 380D. Soon I'll be using my P1000x5 again along with that but still figuring out what full range speakers to get while I dampen the car. I'm leaning towards Focal, Hertz, or JL, depending on the budget next year. Whole project is on hold due to hail damage, the repair date is set for late December. They're crazy busy.
 
My current amp is an Orion XTR2500.1dz. I've only been running it for four months, but so far so good. Williston Audio Labs' dyno video sold me on it. My last amp was a Kicker ZX1500.1, and I never thought I'd go bigger than that, so wise choice giving yourself the wiggle room.
 
I haven't personally used Taramps before, but they're probably the best bang for the buck on the market. They're a bit bare-bones on features in the lower range, like a lot of them don't have variable crossovers so be careful on that if you need one, but other than that they're great. I currently run a Rockford R1200-1D on a single Hertz SX 380D. Soon I'll be using my P1000x5 again along with that but still figuring out what full range speakers to get while I dampen the car. I'm leaning towards Focal, Hertz, or JL, depending on the budget next year. Whole project is on hold due to hail damage, the repair date is set for late December. They're crazy busy.
take JL out of the equation, throw morel, gladden, hybrid audio technologies, audiofrog and german maestro and scanspeak in the mix. JL speakers are low tier performance in general until you get to the C7s which are just okay, still loses out on every other brand's flagships that cost the same or cheaper.
 
My current amp is an Orion XTR2500.1dz. I've only been running it for four months, but so far so good. Williston Audio Labs' dyno video sold me on it. My last amp was a Kicker ZX1500.1, and I never thought I'd go bigger than that, so wise choice giving yourself the wiggle room.

I sold my XTR2500 before I installed it. What are you running off of it. I have an AB HD15 that I was going to run off of it. Is it the beast that I thought it was? My electrical is limited on my 55 year old car. So, I sold it to het an MD3K.
 
I just put in a Soundigital amp to replace a big Korean one. Pretty good so far. Brazilian amps have a reputation for being unreliable but I've had good luck with 2 stetsoms in the past and the Soundigital is performing well so far. The dealer who sold it to me was really singing their praises about how good Soundigital is about honoring warranty but they're a bit pricey compared to the other Brazilian offerings. My thought is if you buy through a reputable dealer new with warranty you're not risking much and the price is very friendly on them.

I see a lot of Taramps around and I've seen a lot of them broken and a lot of shops won't work on them.

That said, Sundown is supposed to have some full bridge amps coming out soon and I'll be getting a couple of them. Not sure if they'll be reliable but 2 year warranty and a dealer local means that if something breaks swapping it out for a new one should be simple enough.
 
I just put in a Soundigital amp to replace a big Korean one. Pretty good so far. Brazilian amps have a reputation for being unreliable but I've had good luck with 2 stetsoms in the past and the Soundigital is performing well so far. The dealer who sold it to me was really singing their praises about how good Soundigital is about honoring warranty but they're a bit pricey compared to the other Brazilian offerings. My thought is if you buy through a reputable dealer new with warranty you're not risking much and the price is very friendly on them.

I see a lot of Taramps around and I've seen a lot of them broken and a lot of shops won't work on them.

That said, Sundown is supposed to have some full bridge amps coming out soon and I'll be getting a couple of them. Not sure if they'll be reliable but 2 year warranty and a dealer local means that if something breaks swapping it out for a new one should be simple enough.

I'm running three of them. 4,050 rms. with a 95 amp alternator and two AGM's. Zero problems.
Screenshot_20200809-012928_Gallery.jpg
 
I'm running three of them. 4,050 rms. with a 95 amp alternator and two AGM's. Zero problems.
Lots of guys running them with no problems, but also lots of reports of them being unreliable. More interesting is what the reaction you get when you ask the guys who repair or design amps what they think of them. In my mind they're cheap for a reason and you're rolling the dice with them.
 
Lots of guys running them with no problems, but also lots of reports of them being unreliable. More interesting is what the reaction you get when you ask the guys who repair or design amps what they think of them. In my mind they're cheap for a reason and you're rolling the dice with them.

No problems so far. People usually try to push them outside of recommended and they encounter problems. Treat them as directed and you should be fine. If you don't stray from a recipe, then, you get what the recipe was designed for. Too many people fukk with the recipe.
 
No problems so far. People usually try to push them outside of recommended and they encounter problems. Treat them as directed and you should be fine. If you don't stray from a recipe, then, you get what the recipe was designed for. Too many people fukk with the recipe.
You've had yours for a few days and they haven't self destructed doesn't = they're reliable. Yes many failures are due to misuse or abuse but plenty are due to design shortcomings and poor quality control. They've come a long way but I would not consider them as reliable as the Korean half bridge stuff on the market. The fact that a lot of amp repair shops refuse to even work on them is telling.
 
You've had yours for a few days and they haven't self destructed doesn't = they're reliable. Yes many failures are due to misuse or abuse but plenty are due to design shortcomings and poor quality control. They've come a long way but I would not consider them as reliable as the Korean half bridge stuff on the market. The fact that a lot of amp repair shops refuse to even work on them is telling.

Since November of last year. Treat them as designed and you should be fine.
 
Lots of guys running them with no problems, but also lots of reports of them being unreliable. More interesting is what the reaction you get when you ask the guys who repair or design amps what they think of them. In my mind they're cheap for a reason and you're rolling the dice with them.

Unreliable? Probably because they are trying to run them at .50 or .66 ohm. Or, trying to run them over 16 volts or under 11 volts. You have to treat them like a fine recipe.
 
Unreliable? Probably because they are trying to run them at .50 or .66 ohm. Or, trying to run them over 16 volts or under 11 volts. You have to treat them like a fine recipe.
I've said the same about known unreliable amps in the past and learned the hard way.

Again, our anecdotal experience with them doesn't mean they are reliable. When everybody I know who repairs/designs amps or otherwise actually understands how they work just roll their eyes or groans when you mention the name there's something going on beyond user error. I mention I had good luck with a couple in the past but they are still known time bombs that none of the repair shops want to work on if they break.
 
I've said the same about known unreliable amps in the past and learned the hard way.

Again, our anecdotal experience with them doesn't mean they are reliable. When everybody I know who repairs/designs amps or otherwise actually understands how they work just roll their eyes or groans when you mention the name there's something going on beyond user error. I mention I had good luck with a couple in the past but they are still known time bombs that none of the repair shops want to work on if they break.

I could be totally wrong, but I feel like if you follow the directions with them, then, you should be fine.
 
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