Looking for build suggestions

[marc2112 10+ year member]

Not at all, but I am somebody. Talking **** about somebody's ride, because you don't like it, is whack. People have different tastes in vehicles.

Drama queen....so far from it man. Adios, nobody will miss the lack of good input since you didn’t provide any related to op’s question



don’t take the bait man. He’s the quintessential Arrogant French Canadian. Lets wait to see if op needs any other insight otherwise let this thread die and for the guy who finally Found his ca.com password again after Five years go back away

I don't like to insist but please.. PLEASE keep demonstrating how narrow minded you guys are. Seriously I'm BEGGING you.. literally on my knees right now.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Seriously I'm BEGGING you.. literally on my knees right now.

 

[Zelenity]

I mean the 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited is pretty nice xD

 

[marc2112 10+ year member]

I mean the 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited is pretty nice xD

They are BUT after 100k they become money pits. What I'm trying to say is: If you invest in a good reliable ho alt, sound proofing and other mods you better make sure it will last.

 

[IndySlim]

I mean the 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited is pretty nice xD

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This is what I bought minus the amp cause I already had that covered. If I hadn't already had a amp I would've bought this package. I also bought my box from them which is advertised to already be tuned for these subs like 31 or 32 Hertz. My installer measured the tune after the install and he said it was in the proper range. That's about $1250 add $49 and you get all the Oxygen Free Copper wiring. It comes with CCA wiring if your cool with that. It's guaranteed good quality Slap and you can add more power in the future cause these subs can handle about 3000w rms. Probably more pricey than some of these guys would suggest but after wasting some cash on my initial setup I wanted proven guaranteed slap and this did it for me no questions asked. Plug and play comes with everything you need. You may have to add a power block, negative block, and extra battery for your amps. But you got $250 left in your budget. Go for it!!!

 

[BCotrell]

Plan the spend on your electrical upgrades first the ask for recommendations Once you know your remaining funds left. Sa’s are a solid choice but Unless you’re specifically looking for a korean amp it would be unwise to spend over $500 bucks on an amp, specifically when you’re at pre electrical upgrade phase

 

[IndySlim]

Hello! My name is Michael and I'm new to this forum, and I've seen some pretty cool things and people.

Here's what I need help with; I have $1,500 to spend on a car audio setup and I want to get the best bang for my buck. I want to be HEARD.

Could you guys recommend any sub + amp combinations? Size doesn't matter but My trunk can fit 2 12's, MAYBE 2 15's

Plan the spend on your electrical upgrades first the ask for recommendations Once you know your remaining funds left. Sa’s are a solid choice but Unless you’re specifically looking for a korean amp it would be unwise to spend over $500 bucks on an amp, specifically when you’re at pre electrical upgrade phase

It comes with wiring and a 1 year warranty. All he needs is an extra battery, neg and pos fuse blocks. He should only need a H.O. alternator if he wants to add a higher rated amp

 

[yamomluvsme]

Bro. I can get you close to a 150 with a bass 3k and a good efficient 15.

 

[yamomluvsme]

BTL-3 Series | Fi Car Audio

The BTL-3 is the BTL-3

ficaraudio.com

Pretty good woofer. Will take 3k clean.

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[yamomluvsme]

For 400 I can build you a beast to pair up good with a 5k. Got a **** Ton of parts.

 

[300spartan]

I just spent $700 on a sa v2 15 a rp2000.1 and two crescendo 6.5s. My mids amp is a rockville db 45 which I bought for $80 (it’s ok for the price) and peerless by tymphany 6.5s I’m rear deck of 300. Still need a box for my sub.

 

[BCotrell]

I just spent $700 on a sa v2 15 a rp2000.1 and two crescendo 6.5s. My mids amp is a rockville db 45 which I bought for $80 (it’s ok for the price) and peerless by tymphany 6.5s I’m rear deck of 300. Still need a box for my sub.

It appears That rp Does rates based on all the dyno tests but will probably be less efficient than full bridge technology. Should still be sufficient for that sub. will still need big 3 wiring upgrade and agm battery. Should find someone to build you a custom ported enclosure

 

[300spartan]

Yes they do rated and I’m currently waiting to get wire from my job for the big 3. It just ***** cuz the 300 has the battery in the rear. I’m gonna just build one to specs And eventually get a agm

 

[BCotrell]

Yes they do rated and I’m currently waiting to get wire from my job for the big 3. It just ***** cuz the 300 has the battery in the rear. I’m gonna just build one to specs And eventually get a agm

that’s not too bad, you’ll run the alt power wire to battery then a long power wire to the rear sub amp so now you’ll just run a long wire from the alt to the battery in the back, then a short power wire from the battery to the amp. You can do battery negative to frame i. The rear most likely as well. Just use grommets

your battery isn’t going to last long if you try to run your system with the Vehicle off. Cool thing is running a dual battery Setup will be less wire since your primary battery is in the rear. That alt to positive run will be the longest run

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Yes they do rated and I’m currently waiting to get wire from my job for the big 3. It just ***** cuz the 300 has the battery in the rear. I’m gonna just build one to specs And eventually get a agm

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