Lightup switch on remote wire

I don't think you do. If you're using a lighted switch you have input voltage, AKA your remote wire.... You have a ground, this is only to ground the light.... and you have a switched output wire, this goes to what you want to turn on and off.... aka.... you amp (s)
Look. If you've got a lighted switch with three pins and you've only got 2 wired and one empty, which is what I'm pretty sure you said earlier....

YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG.
correct - ground terminal must be on ground for light to work...

why is king ranch a idiot?

 
I dont think you guys are getting it...I know how a switch works...my theory is that because the amp has a high input impedence most likely, it is causing less current to pass through the circuit than the switch needs to light up. Is this possible?
that has nothing to do w the remote in on the amp

 
Alright, it sounds like these switches are either labeled in a way that doesn't make sense or...idk...they have no 'load'. They have a positive, a negative, and an ACC. I assumed this meant power goes to ACC (to turn the light on when the car is on), then power goes to the positive (which is the switched input), and then negative goes to whatever you want the switch to activate.

Idk where you guys read into things so much that you get a HU involved in this...I never once mentioned using my HU, or an ACC from my HU, or power from my HU or anything.

FROM PLAYING WITH THE SWITCH, I was able to see that when I put power to the ACC prong, it made the light always be on (so long as the amp isn't in the circuit still...) that is all. I didn't want that. So I didn't use that. Its not that hard to understand, and there's nothing that says you HAVE to have an ACC going to ANYTHING in your car, unless you want that thing to always be on when the car is on (ie..the light, which I don't).

I'll try using the switch backwards though from what it is marked as. So I can use the 'negative' as where I give it a +12, 'positive' as where I send it to my amp, and 'ACC' as a ground. This essentially means they are working as a positive, ground, and load.

Everyone had their incredibly insightful thoughts about how switches are so incredibly easy to use (which they are...its the light that is giving me issues, switch is doing just what it should)...yet no one took a second and a half to disprove my arguement about mixed loads in series to explain why the light wouldn't be getting enough voltage when the amp is in the circuit, but it does when I take the amp out of the circuit?

 
No luck with that either...When I wire it as I stated right there^, the light is always on, switch doesn't turn on the amp, or in other words the amp isn't getting enough voltage to turn on.

Bottomline is I can only get one of them to be getting the voltage it needs to be on, seems like a poor design of the switch...and dont say ZOMG U R TEH DUMB U NEED TO USE THE ACC FORM UR HEADUNIT...whatever I'm just going to use it without the light.

 
YOu should probably pay someone to do it for you. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
5 bucks paypal if you can tell me step by step what to do and it works, if it doesn't, you owe me 5 bucks for wasting my time with your nonsense and ego

I know how electronics work. I've tried almost every combination of wires going to and from and all over the switch. Bottomline is the light is wired in series with the switch, so when the switch is in series with the amp, there is a mixed impedence, and the lower impedence will see less voltage in order to keep current and power the same.

 
Let me know when I'm wrong, for real. You test the ****ing thing with a multimeter for continuity? Sure you don't have it hooked up backwards through the diode?

If your switch is a THREE PRONG Lighted toggle SPST, which is what you're describing........

The light.... and the 'amp turn on relay'... are not in series. They are in parallel.

Power comes in and goes to both -the Diode (that's the light, //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif ) and on through to the amp- only when the switch is closed.

They share their source.

The LED (Diode, light, what have you...) is then grounded separately... hence the third terminal on your SPST toggle switch... which would otherwise have only two....

Please, if I am wrong... tell me how they are wired in series? Since in my mind that would be retarded and different than all the other SPST Lighted toggles I've hooked up before, as recently as last week.

Furthermore, If you'd like to further argue the point, please post up a link to the toggle you have, unless you bought it at some hole in the wall, that should be do-able.

If that's not do able please post a decent resolution and quality pic of the toggle, including the back of said toggle.

A member already asked you for this, but I suppose you were too busy knowing what the fuck you were doing to get that for him.

Cock-nugget.

Help me, help you. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
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