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<blockquote data-quote="Rashaddd" data-source="post: 5069097" data-attributes="member: 592162">Alright, it sounds like these switches are either labeled in a way that doesn&#039;t make sense or...idk...they have no &#039;load&#039;. They have a positive, a negative, and an ACC. I assumed this meant power goes to ACC (to turn the light on when the car is on), then power goes to the positive (which is the switched input), and then negative goes to whatever you want the switch to activate.Idk where you guys read into things so much that you get a HU involved in this...I never once mentioned using my HU, or an ACC from my HU, or power from my HU or anything.FROM PLAYING WITH THE SWITCH, I was able to see that when I put power to the ACC prong, it made the light always be on (so long as the amp isn&#039;t in the circuit still...) that is all. I didn&#039;t want that. So I didn&#039;t use that. Its not that hard to understand, and there&#039;s nothing that says you HAVE to have an ACC going to ANYTHING in your car, unless you want that thing to always be on when the car is on (ie..the light, which I don&#039;t).I&#039;ll try using the switch backwards though from what it is marked as. So I can use the &#039;negative&#039; as where I give it a +12, &#039;positive&#039; as where I send it to my amp, and &#039;ACC&#039; as a ground. This essentially means they are working as a positive, ground, and load.Everyone had their incredibly insightful thoughts about how switches are so incredibly easy to use (which they are...its the light that is giving me issues, switch is doing just what it should)...yet no one took a second and a half to disprove my arguement about mixed loads in series to explain why the light wouldn&#039;t be getting enough voltage when the amp is in the circuit, but it does when I take the amp out of the circuit?</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Rashaddd, post: 5069097, member: 592162"] Alright, it sounds like these switches are either labeled in a way that doesn't make sense or...idk...they have no 'load'. They have a positive, a negative, and an ACC. I assumed this meant power goes to ACC (to turn the light on when the car is on), then power goes to the positive (which is the switched input), and then negative goes to whatever you want the switch to activate. Idk where you guys read into things so much that you get a HU involved in this...I never once mentioned using my HU, or an ACC from my HU, or power from my HU or anything. FROM PLAYING WITH THE SWITCH, I was able to see that when I put power to the ACC prong, it made the light always be on (so long as the amp isn't in the circuit still...) that is all. I didn't want that. So I didn't use that. Its not that hard to understand, and there's nothing that says you HAVE to have an ACC going to ANYTHING in your car, unless you want that thing to always be on when the car is on (ie..the light, which I don't). I'll try using the switch backwards though from what it is marked as. So I can use the 'negative' as where I give it a +12, 'positive' as where I send it to my amp, and 'ACC' as a ground. This essentially means they are working as a positive, ground, and load. Everyone had their incredibly insightful thoughts about how switches are so incredibly easy to use (which they are...its the light that is giving me issues, switch is doing just what it should)...yet no one took a second and a half to disprove my arguement about mixed loads in series to explain why the light wouldn't be getting enough voltage when the amp is in the circuit, but it does when I take the amp out of the circuit? [/QUOTE]

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