People go WAAAAAY overboard with the whole "big 3" thing. The whole concept that you need garden hose size charging wires when you're only running a couple K (or a lot less in this case) is completely unjustified.no 2 awg is not fine for a big 3 when dealing with a 250 amp alt . what im saying is with a 250 w amp using 2 awg is simply not except able . ask mechman if you should use 2 awg for a 250w alt .
noseeing how electricity will take the path of least resistance with 2awg your creating more resistance then their needs to be.
Uhh, not sure where you're getting your data from, but 15' of 2 ga can deliver over 200A w/o dropping more than 1/2v at 14v.if he were to up grade his big 3 to 0 or 2/0 or even welding cable his dimming issues will probity go away cause maximum amps for power transmission is only 94 amps while 0 is 150 you do the math cause i did and that's 56 amps of power hes losing.
I have NO idea where you're getting those numbers. I would be interested to see it though.if he goes to 2/0 then he picks up like 96 amps of power and with the 250amp alt figured in it goes like this for his loss 2 awg loses 156 amps 0 awg loses 100 and 2/0 he only loses 60 amps .
I can't disagree with that, but I still think then2audio I agree that the 2 gauge should be plenty for the short runs to do his Big 3. However I still think that if he were to measure his voltage with music and then again with a test tone, he would see a big variance there. I would expect his alt to make full power for a test tone, but not for music. The reason why is that when you play music, the bass notes are random and the alt just cannot ramp up and down in output fast enough to keep up with demand. That is where the rear battery would help him. It would ensure his voltages would stay above 12v for sure. A single group 27 or 31 would give him a serious boost IMHO.
I would like to se the OP run a test tone and report back with a reading. Like a 5 ~ 10 second burp.
I can't disagree with that, but I still think the
Optima says their Red Top is not to be used for car audio. Perhaps a large deep cycle would be a better bet than the Red Top.
A real man would replace his own head gaskets. /thread.Hey guys, I've just got my van back from the mechanic (head gaskets). While there the system was out but I left the stupid CAP in and it got stolen. I've had it back for a couple of weeks now and I've had a few problems with it. 1) The Exide Orbital battery died, no one knows why but I replaced it with the second one I got for my car (upcoming build log) and it was DOA and never used so I've installed a Red Top. So the starting battery problem has been fixed. 2) Severe noise similar to white noise, turned out the little fuse in the Pioneer HU was blown, neatly soldered a wire into place and that problem is fixed. Now it was at the mechanics about 4 months (since late August '08) and I've been diagnosing these other problems for a few weeks so we've been easy on the system, no bumpin' too hard until here lately. I'll be dammed if now I've got a voltage drop issue and the lights are dimming. To fill in the background here this thing has a 250A alternator, BIG 3 is done, terminals and connections are clean as can be after changing the battery out twice. It only has one BXi2006D subwoofer amp running two BX12D2 Brutus subs wired series-parallel for a 2 ohm load at the amp. The voltage is dropping from 14.8 at idle to 11.5 on a bass heavy hit such as the ones found in Lil Wayne's A Milli. So anyone have any ideas on where I'm going wrong here. I should have a little more stability than that seeing as I'm only running 1900 Watts RMS total (when you add the Zeus 6006 running 2 ohms stereo) and thats more than likely an optimistic number. Any suggestions here would be greatly appreciated guys. --Also the alternator has been tested giving 260 amps of output at 2800 RPM and 112 amps at idle.
I recommend you get rid of that last alternator mounting bolt to Battery negative wire. It's unnecessary and it may be causing some kind of ground loop. Normally, everything is grounded at the same point, aka the chassis of the vehicle. I would recommend going with 1/0 gauge wire for 250 amp alternator for just the big 3.BIG 3 is already been done...... 2 Guage wire ALT to BATT + , BATT - to chassis, ALT mounting bolt (engine) to chassis and even a 4th ALT mounting bolt to BATT -
The BIG 3 is covered
I can't disagree with that, but I still think the
Now you are starting to come around //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
All I am saying is that if he had one big under hood battery (HC2400/D3100/9A31/etc) or two smaller (dual HC1400/D5100/etc) in that same setup, he would be golden. I don't think his alt is bad or lacking. Just needs the faster batteries to help out the alt when playing music.
Don't you need help deciding if you should install a stereo for you ex or something? You are needed in The Lounge. So GTFO if you are not going to help the dude out or add anything positive to this discussion.A real man would replace his own head gaskets. /thread.
Maybe they're assuming battery banks that you're going to charge and deplete regularly.Optima says their Red Top is not to be used for car audio. Perhaps a large deep cycle would be a better bet than the Red Top.
ide have replaced my own head gaskets to cause i a real man and aint afraid to get my hands dirty and as far as where i got my info http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm .also i do believe IDSkoT did contribute some thing to the discision he said get a new battery and check the groundsA real man would replace his own head gaskets. /thread.
Get a new battery, check the grounds, and that's all she wrote.
Would've if i had the time. Working for a natural gas transmission company leaves me little time to do anything else.A real man would replace his own head gaskets. /thread.
I've already had both checked at Advance Auto, with the engine wound up the dimming isn't as bad and I unfortunately didn't have anyone to help to get the voltage check at higher RPM. However running down the highway at around 1800 - 2000 RPM they're flashing quite noticeably, and again no way of seeing the voltage cuz there's no guague in the dash and I've not had the time to clip my DMM leads to anything else while driving yet.I recommend you get rid of that last alternator mounting bolt to Battery negative wire. It's unnecessary and it may be causing some kind of ground loop. Normally, everything is grounded at the same point, aka the chassis of the vehicle. I would recommend going with 1/0 gauge wire for 250 amp alternator for just the big 3.
Have the battery checked at Autozone.
Are you running your system, at 1900 wrms, at 2800 rpm when the output of the alternator is 260 amperes?
The battery is brand spanking new. Date code even shows it built in Dec. 08. I've been all through every connection in this thing including all grounds.ide have replaced my own head gaskets to cause i a real man and aint afraid to get my hands dirty and as far as where i got my info http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm .also i do believe IDSkoT did contribute some thing to the discision he said get a new battery and check the grounds
Like I said before, maybe you should try removing the ground wire connecting your alternator to your battery negative terminal. This is uneccessary and could possibly cause a ground loop. The ground point is your vehicle chassis. Maybe this will help, it's worth a shot.I've already had both checked at Advance Auto, with the engine wound up the dimming isn't as bad and I unfortunately didn't have anyone to help to get the voltage check at higher RPM. However running down the highway at around 1800 - 2000 RPM they're flashing quite noticeably, and again no way of seeing the voltage cuz there's no guague in the dash and I've not had the time to clip my DMM leads to anything else while driving yet.
It's already been tested.... first thing I did after checking ALL connections....the battery could still be bad ide have it checked ive had bats be dead from the moment i put them in and not hold a charge