Lead free solder for lugs?

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

So, I've used both lead and lead free solder for small electronics in the past.

I have lead free solder used for copper water pipes, and was wondering if it is conductive enough to use for my lugs/wire. It was not specifically for electrical connections. Would it work ok, or should I go get some lead solder?

I'm using thick stranded welding wire between my batteries and the bus bars. For a better connection, I was going to add solder to the inside of the lugs. I've seen discussions on whether this actually does anything or not, but they were indecisive. They were mainly opinion-based.

I know lead is a great conductor. What is used in lead free solder? I read that Silver and Tin are often used. Wouldn't silver be extremely expensive, unless there was a very small amount used?

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[tc300 10+ year member]

ive heard mix reviews on the lead free... honestly id just crimp and call it a day!!

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I guess, I just want to do all the little details right!

If it's really worth anything, I'll run to True Value and grab some lead solder. I'd just like to know if it really does anything. It's hard to get a solid crimp on thick wire strands.

 

[shammyhavik]

Solder the lugs. I had a wire fall out on one lug which is a sad day. SHCA 0/2 lugs are EXPENSIVE!

I personally regret not soldering all 18 of my lugs. Cuz now i don't have a solid soldered peace of mind lmao

 

[WhiteYota]

A lot of electronics these days are using lead free - so electrically I dont think there would be a problem.

With the two in the pic though, the one that does not say silver bearing - there is no flux in it.

Oh and if you have not soldered 1/0 cable yet - your gonna need a lot of heat.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Solder the lugs. I had a wire fall out on one lug which is a sad day. SHCA 0/2 lugs are EXPENSIVE!
I personally regret not soldering all 18 of my lugs. Cuz now i don't have a solid soldered peace of mind lmao

I've had wire fall out too. Luckily, not from SHCA lugs. Yes, I would like peace of mind too.

A lot of electronics these days are using lead free - so electrically I dont think there would be a problem.With the two in the pic though, the one that does not say silver bearing - there is no flux in it.

Oh and if you have not soldered 1/0 cable yet - your gonna need a lot of heat.

I was going to use the thicker stuff for the lugs. That's what says silver bearing. The smaller solder is what I use with my soldering iron on smaller wires.

I'm using a torch, so hopefully that will be enough heat

 

[WhiteYota]

I have helped fix batt cables and the way my dad showed me is to put the lug in a vise, heat it good and hot with the torch, fill it with solder then plunge the wire in then heat till the wire wicks it up a little.

The only difference with this way and what you have is most batt cables are course strand wire. I have not done fine stranded wire.

When I did my 1/0 on my van I used the screw lugs from knu.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I have helped fix batt cables and the way my dad showed me is to put the lug in a vise, heat it good and hot with the torch, fill it with solder then plunge the wire in then heat till the wire wicks it up a little.The only difference with this way and what you have is most batt cables are course strand wire. I have not done fine stranded wire.

When I did my 1/0 on my van I used the screw lugs from knu.

I was going to do this to course stranded welding cable, as well as car audio cable.

The stuff I'm using between batteries and bus bars is thick-stranded and not flexible, which is why it would be difficult to get a good solid crimp on it.

I use a vice for crimps, not a fancy hydraulic crimper or anything.

 

[WhiteYota]

You have a harbor freight? They should have the crimp tool that you put the lug/wire in then hit it with a hammer. If you are doing a lot of them it might be worth while to get it.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I do have a Harbor Freight, but I thought that kind of crimping tool wasn't good. Hydraulic crimping tools are what everyone always recommends

 

[WhiteYota]

I did some online looking and the only one I could find on harbor freights site was a hydraulic one, for 54$. Home Depot has the impact crimper for about 16$.

I am not sure on what the difference would be with the end results though of using one way or the other.

Either one would keep the lug housing from spreading and make a tighter connection then just squishing them.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I feel like a hydraulic crimping tool would be a pain to use on 2/0 lugs. Have you used one?

 

[fatboytyler]

It does not matter what solder you use, although try not to use Acid Core because it will cause corrosion. Lead free Vs. Lead bearing is all about the health risks of soldering it. I personally prefer lead bearing because it has a lower melting point, thus not needing a flux. Silver bearing OR Rosin Core are the best for electrical purposes, most of which are lead free nowadays. I've used rosin core on most of my lugs and it works great. Use some paraffin (wax) for a flux and you're golden.

I say solder all the lugs. Solder is cheap. Paraffin is cheap and will last you a while. Get something metal that you can clamp/hold the lugs with and get a blowtorch (I have a sweet little butane powered blowtorch and solder switchable tool) and you're set for life on lugs.

 

[WhiteYota]

I have not used any of the crimp tools, I have seen the end results though. Very nice solid connections.

I didn't see in your post what size of wire - the hydraulic one at harbor freight said it will only work on up to 1/0.

You might have a hard time finding a tool to crimp 2/0 unless you know any linemen in your area that would let you borrow one.

Only places I have seen anything larger then 1/0 is farm/tractors batt cables and home power lines.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

hammer crimps and hydrualics all do their job fine. just one is more convenient than the other. I've tested both and you cannot rip it off even with two people playing tug of war.