L7 doesnt seem like its wanging as hard as I expected

Right now the sub is facing the side of the trunk where the gas tank is on the exterior... The box I made was so big that it didnt just fit in the trunk I had to pry that biatch in there.

I think with proper measurements and proper enclosure construction will do the trick

 
Right now the sub is facing the side of the trunk where the gas tank is on the exterior... The box I made was so big that it didnt just fit in the trunk I had to pry that biatch in there.
I think with proper measurements and proper enclosure construction will do the trick
face it towards teh back, you could gain up to 6 deebeez and will make the bass deeper

what you install is what you get, when you push it to hard it will sound like ****;)

on the next box I build I will make sure to have the sub facing the front or back of the car... not the sides..
have it face the back

 
Could your problem be that everytime your deck resets the volume on your headunit for your sub resets also? I think on pioneer units the sub level is from 0 to 6 or something. Maybe everything the head unit resets it goes to 0. Prolly not it but just thinkin of things that could be wrong.

 
Could your problem be that everytime your deck resets the volume on your headunit for your sub resets also? I think on pioneer units the sub level is from 0 to 6 or something. Maybe everything the head unit resets it goes to 0. Prolly not it but just thinkin of things that could be wrong.
Yes it does reset to 0, however I always turn that up to 4-5 or so when listening to a deep bass song

 
Dude, you seriously need to just get as box made for your car and that woofer, take the car in and have the wiring checked out, and then come back. Nobody can help you until you have a box without all sorts of holes in it (besides the slot) and a HU that is wired properly.

On my 960 I can adjust my bass from -22 up to +6, and it stays between -12 and -20. If you set your gains with a meter you won't need to crank them to the +, it just distorts your woofers.

Lastly, you remind me of me when I was 6 yrs. old as far as your construction goes.

 
Dude, you seriously need to just get as box made for your car and that woofer, take the car in and have the wiring checked out, and then come back. Nobody can help you until you have a box without all sorts of holes in it (besides the slot) and a HU that is wired properly.
On my 960 I can adjust my bass from -22 up to +6, and it stays between -12 and -20. If you set your gains with a meter you won't need to crank them to the +, it just distorts your woofers.

Lastly, you remind me of me when I was 6 yrs. old as far as your construction goes.

First off im not paying anybody to do anything, Im pretty sure with the knowledge all over this site(and learning from my mistakes during the first box build) that I can build a good box on my own, no need to go and waste $100+.

Second the wiring for the head unit has nothing to do with this at all, I have no problem resetting the head unit, its a simple problem that I will fix whenever I feel I acctually NEED to fix it. The box is much more important. On my head unit the 5900 I can only adjust the "bass" from 0 to +6. I set my gains properly in the first place. ACV 40 for my woofer, to give it 1600 watts.(Eventhough my amp probably only puts out 1500 or so.)

Lastly everybody learns form their own mistakes. Practice makes perfect. So bite me F*ucker

 
face it towards teh back, you could gain up to 6 deebeez and will make the bass deeper
what you install is what you get, when you push it to hard it will sound like ****;)

have it face the back




not in all cases. my friend had a bonneville with that middle ski hole and he had a L7 15'' in there facing forward with port forward and that was the loudest sedan i have ever heard.

 
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