KX 2500.1 cutting out at 1 ohm :( ?

BassAddictJ
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CarAudio.com Veteran
So i've been running my kx 2500.1 @ 2ohm nominal for the last year. i recently reconed the btl to 1 ohm. Now the bass will cut out at and only at full tilt. All connections for power/grounds, speaker wires, and signal wires are solid. Voltage drops typically to 13v, no lower than 12.5v. Input signal voltage is actually slightly lower since the bass eq level is slightly lower to reach full tilt.

ive used kx 2500.1's at 1 ohm nominal in the past with the same kind of electrical and never had this issue. lame

 
electrical is in my sig. thing is though with the amp at 2 ohm i NEVER had any issues. also no voltage drops when it cuts out.

now i snooped around the board today....one of the larger capacitors on the board seems a little loose. i ussually keep the cover off the amp so its possible i was careless and that cap got bumped and broke one of the connections. Sometime tomorrow im gonna play around with it and see if pressing down on the cap in certain directions alleviates the problem. if so then that's a reasonable fix i can do by taking out the board and do a little soldering. hopefully thats the cause because i cant figure out any other reason why it would work fine and then now act up after a new recone.

 
So i've been running my kx 2500.1 @ 2ohm nominal for the last year. i recently reconed the btl to 1 ohm. Now the bass will cut out at and only at full tilt. All connections for power/grounds, speaker wires, and signal wires are solid. Voltage drops typically to 13v, no lower than 12.5v. Input signal voltage is actually slightly lower since the bass eq level is slightly lower to reach full tilt.
ive used kx 2500.1's at 1 ohm nominal in the past with the same kind of electrical and never had this issue. lame
i had the same issue. voltage was fine, but it would cut out at 1 ohm nominal.

as ive said before (and still believe), some will do 1 ohm, some wont. mine wouldnt regardless of impedance rise, and i was pissed that everyone elses would.

 
should of stuck with the amp in your ava //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
yeah.....i regret selling it....

just wondering why you would ride around with the cover off all the time?
there only about 6in of clearance from the amp top and the trunk ceiling. Cover off the heat dissipates better, its still close enough to the ceiling where its pretty well protected, and the red circuit board is baller. i'm planning on doing an acrylic cover with a larger fan system //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

i tried pressing down/moving slightly the caps at full tilt (wearing protective gloves) to see if it would fix the problem and prove this theory right. Unfortunately the problem persisted and i'm contemplating taking the board out and inspecting it closer. These 2 caps can wiggle a bit while every other cap on the board is solid in place no wiggle. I know i gotta be careful about static electricity when do this too. I just really dont wanna **** with though...

i have the input signal turned down a bit and i can still get it full tilt right before the cut out point. unfortunately that requires quite a bit of adjustment and tweaking with each track and i miss the way it was before without having to worry about it cutting out..

.....at least when its not cutting out i can hear the output difference at 1 ohm. it's louder //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I never played it on music full tilt music
but do you play it on music? lol

i have to agree here
one would think if not having enough current would reflect in voltage drops. is it possible for this 2500.1 to cut out as a result of insufficient electrical backing YET NOT have voltage drops under what is seemingly normal....?

 
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BassAddictJ

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