KnuKonceptz claimed ampacity

Um, I think that may be for supplying a welder? They take voltage drop into account for long distances. not 20 fricken feet as in a car. senor dumbass
Well according to you, AC and DC do not differ when it comes to ampacity? So why does it matter if it's for supplying a welder?

Why mention how long automotive runs are?

Regardless, they rate their 1/0 at 350 amps at 50 feet. Are you telling me that a shorter run couldn't handle as much current? Afterall, the car runs are shorter.

You know what happens when you "assume"

This coming from the guy that thinks 120 db will permanently damage your hearing. 120 db is a mouse fart.

 
your whole argument is pointless. quit trying to be a cheapass and spend the money on a product designed for your needs. go to home depot and argue with them.
I have no intention of upgrading my service. I wanted him to say his 1/0 was good for 300 amps. He didn't (because it isn't). They lie like rugs. Well it could take it for a "little while". WTF #12 could take 300 amps for "a little while".

 
1. A 3kw amp with less than a 250a fuse most likely does not do rated. (i.e. audiopipe)
2. Less than 1% of every claim I've seen about bench testing amps is a legitimate test. 99% of people test Apparent Power (inflated) which is not the same as Real Power (what the manufacturers spec is).
I'm talking about solid amps that do 3kw+. Zenon amps(sundown 3k, RD 3250, etc.), AQ 3500D, MM3000.1/MM4000.1, DD M3, all of those Stetsom and SoundDigital amps that do ungodly power with one 1/0 input...the list goes on and on. You're saying that it's basically impossible for those amps to put out rated power.

Also, what do you consider to be a legit test? I know that these wild "peak hold" numbers don't mean anything. But testing output 5 seconds into a burp while documenting imp rise and voltage drop seems to be a pretty accurate way to get numbers.

 
Well according to you, AC and DC do not differ when it comes to ampacity? So why does it matter if it's for supplying a welder?
Why mention how long automotive runs are?

Regardless, they rate their 1/0 at 350 amps at 50 feet. Are you telling me that a shorter run couldn't handle as much current? Afterall, the car runs are shorter.

You know what happens when you "assume"

This coming from the guy that thinks 120 db will permanently damage your hearing. 120 db is a mouse fart.
this

 
I have no idea where the 3kW amp reference came from.
You said even the best 1/0 can only handle 265 amps of current. Good 3kw amps can draw upwards of 300 amps, and use one 1/0 input, so I decided to ask you if you thought all of these manufacturers are lying as well.

I can ask you the same question about 1kw amps using 4 gauge wire...according to you those amps would not be able to do rated power. I can keep on going if you'd like.

 
I have no intention of upgrading my service. I wanted him to say his 1/0 was good for 300 amps. He didn't (because it isn't). They lie like rugs. Well it could take it for a "little while". WTF #12 could take 300 amps for "a little while".
lolumad.

nG

 
is the kolloseus worth the money? i have the klmx and its a pain.
6094_102554487198_672517198_2230054.jpg


let this be your answer. knu kolossus flecks 1/0^^^

 
This is my point of view, I am not taking sides, nor using McIntosh/others info/views. This is my own thought process.

It's not that they're trash, it's all given by the amount of current flowing through the wire. It has to deal with the specific heat of the material, and the resistance of it.

Let's go with his specific situations that he pointed out: 300A@20' and 800A@5'

First we find the overall resistance of the wire:

0.09827ohms/kfeet

This divided by 1000 gives ohms per foot. (Or just add 3 0s after the decimal point.)

.00009827ohms/foot

This multiplied by 20 gives us the resistance of the wire.

0.0019654ohms

Now, plug this into ohms law to determine how many watts this wire dissipates, just the same as viewing it as a resistor. (I^2)*R=P

(300*300)0.0019654=176.886W

At the same time, lets plug this in to calculate the voltage drop across the resistor. I*R=E

300*0.0019654=0.58962V | This drops about .6V, it is not really relevant to the rest of what I'm saying, but it does drop ~.6V

Now that we know how many watts it dissipates, we still cannot calculate how much it will heat the wire. We have to find the mass of the wire.

We have to find the volume of the wire by multiplying it's area by it's height, given by (r^2)piH. H is determined by converting feet into cm, resulting in 609.6cm. r is .535cm

.535(609.6)=326.136cm^3

The density of copper is 8.96g/cm^3.

326.136*8.96=2,922.17856g | Now, we finally have how much mass of copper is in the wire. I'm assuming there's a minimal amount of air, but if there is more, it will heat up faster, since there is less copper mass, and will not evenly heat up the air since the thermal transfer is by convection instead of conduction. :p

The specific heat of copper is 0.385 J/g•C or K.

One watt dissipated is 1J for 1 second. We finally are able to determine how much it will heat the wire.

Q=mC(deltaT) | Delta T stands for change in temperature, which is (Tf-Ti). We are trying to find Tf.

Q=176.886J

m=2922.17856g

C=.385

Ti=25

With the variables stated, we can now start plugging things in and solve.

176.886=2922.17856*.385(Tf-25)

Multiply 2922.17856 by .385

176.886=1125.03875(Tf-25)

Divide 176.88600 by 1125.03875

0.157226584=Tf-25

Add 25 to 0.157226584

Tf= 25.157226584 degrees C

IF TL;DR:

In other words, 0.157226584 degrees C/second, or 0.2830079 degrees F/second. Five seconds, and it's slightly more than a degree hotter. :\ I don't know if I would run it for too long. Let's run this for five minutes, assuming that none of the energy is lost/absorbed by the environment.

0.2830079(60*5)=84.90237 degrees F. I am not about to go into the math for dissipation of this heat into the surrounding air/insulation. After consideration, I would say the wire has a temperature rise of about 50-60 degrees F after five minutes.

On second though, there is too much math involved, and it is a hell of a lot easier to do on paper, so I'm not going to do the 800A@5' unless someone asks.

Please ignore small grammatical errors, or me leaving s or other letters off words.

 
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I dont remember one recently. The kit is a fair enough price for what it comes with IMO
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