kinetik *****

Pro-tip: Batteries store energy reserves, not energy potential. There is no such thing as storage of energy potential, that is why current draw will always drain a source of reserves. That is why an alternator/generation source equal to or greater than load (read: current draw) must be present to maintain voltage.

There is no way around this fact, and with it the key to electrical system makeup for a stereo system is held.

 
OP UP IN HERE!

finish helping me out guys. im tripping about this major voltage drop and ima just **** up my **** if i dont fix it soon.

im running my sundown at 1 ohm and im getting major voltage drops. down to 11.2! HORRIBLE.

so my old optima was better than this piece of **** kinetick 1800?

stock alt is supposed to be 100 amps.

im running 0 gauge from battery to my sundown. and grounded with 0 gauge. ground is okay, but il check it and clean it up more just to be sure. can bad ground cause voltage drops?

to keep it interesting here r some vids i just took this weekend:



appreciate all the help everyone. i really wana fixed this voltage problem

 
OP UP IN HERE!
finish helping me out guys. im tripping about this major voltage drop and ima just **** up my **** if i dont fix it soon.

im running my sundown at 1 ohm and im getting major voltage drops. down to 11.2! HORRIBLE.

so my old optima was better than this piece of **** kinetick 1800?

stock alt is supposed to be 100 amps.

im running 0 gauge from battery to my sundown. and grounded with 0 gauge. ground is okay, but il check it and clean it up more just to be sure. can bad ground cause voltage drops?

to keep it interesting here r some vids i just took this weekend:


as you can see in my video, with my car on, my voltage drops very low and isnt stable. how the hell do you guys run 2k watts off of a stock alt with only a battery and 0 gauge? seriously need to fix my electrical problems. i will for sure do big 3, but is there something else i can do to help? i thought an 1800 and big three would help, but with kinetik in there its not making a differance and idk if big 3 will finish it off like i was hoping it did.

WHAT CAN I DO TO IMPROVE MY VOLTAGE as it is or to make sure that im running my electrical at optimum performance. (please dont just say "get h/o alt" or "more batteries". i already know these are pretty much the fixes, but i want to know if im missing something or something i can do before all that. im srue i can get more out of my electical with the stuff i have. im not running too much power) thanks again everyone.

 
What is the resting voltage of the kinetik with the car off before you ever start it for the day? Fully charged it will be 12.8 v or more and if your alternator can keep up your kinetik should be at 12.7v or higher. Looking at your set up if your alternator is 100 amps its a safe bet the car is going to need 40 amps from the alt to stay running or more with other accessories on so that drops your available power down to 60 amps for audio. For a 1200 watt amp that is 100% efficient it would need 83.33 amps to do 1200 watts @14.4 volts and as the voltage drops would need more current add another 10 to 15 amps for the other amplifier you are at 100 amps by the amplifiers themselves @ 100% efficiency. A 100 amp stock alt wont do 100 amps at idle (maybe 60) and it may not do 100 amps when hot ( I know mine doesnt and its rated at 100 amps ). I have a 7 year old kinetik 1400 that is the primary battery in my truck that powers anywhere between a 500 watt to well over 1000 watt systems in it and the only way I had drop to the 12v range is when I was trying to see how loud I could get a 1.12 cft sealed built to the cab box with a single 12 firing through bench seat and that was well over 1000 watts on just the sub.

If your alt max puts out 100 amps cold and @ highway speeds and your system can pull more how will it keep your car running and keep the battery charged?

I have never had an optima last 7 years in fact my first one died within 3 months and it did so in the judging lanes at IASCA World Finals in sq in 1997. After it died in the lanes it also would not take a charge after even if we disconnected it totally from the car. IIRC the battery was in the high 9 low 10v range. When I bought the truck I have now it had a less than 3 yr old yellow top in it (date was indicated on the top), I also figured out why a napa battery was in the bed. After I installed my system I could not do ANY engine off listening/tuning without my SS amp giving the low voltage squeal of death within 3 minutes so I put in the battery I have now. When you have to use a lap top to make adjustments to your audio system it isn't worth while to also contend with engine noise and leaving an intelligent charger on your car while tuning is not exactly good on the charger.

For your set up I would check your state of charge on your battery, check your grounds, get your alt checked, do the big 3 and then go from there. If you are having to pull 100-200 amps from your batteries which at 11 volts you would be how is a 100 amp alt going to run the car, the audio system and put back 100's of amps into the battery as fast as it can pull it out? Judging from your videos you are pulling alot more at idle than your alt can put out. If your are subjecting your battery to that it will lag behind. If your car is only putting out 100 amps max even when you are driving it down the highway you would be pulling from the battery often when the bass hits.

 
What is the resting voltage of the kinetik with the car off before you ever start it for the day? Fully charged it will be 12.8 v or more and if your alternator can keep up your kinetik should be at 12.7v or higher. Looking at your set up if your alternator is 100 amps its a safe bet the car is going to need 40 amps from the alt to stay running or more with other accessories on so that drops your available power down to 60 amps for audio. For a 1200 watt amp that is 100% efficient it would need 83.33 amps to do 1200 watts @14.4 volts and as the voltage drops would need more current add another 10 to 15 amps for the other amplifier you are at 100 amps by the amplifiers themselves @ 100% efficiency. A 100 amp stock alt wont do 100 amps at idle (maybe 60) and it may not do 100 amps when hot ( I know mine doesnt and its rated at 100 amps ). I have a 7 year old kinetik 1400 that is the primary battery in my truck that powers anywhere between a 500 watt to well over 1000 watt systems in it and the only way I had drop to the 12v range is when I was trying to see how loud I could get a 1.12 cft sealed built to the cab box with a single 12 firing through bench seat and that was well over 1000 watts on just the sub.
If your alt max puts out 100 amps cold and @ highway speeds and your system can pull more how will it keep your car running and keep the battery charged?

I have never had an optima last 7 years in fact my first one died within 3 months and it did so in the judging lanes at IASCA World Finals in sq in 1997. After it died in the lanes it also would not take a charge after even if we disconnected it totally from the car. IIRC the battery was in the high 9 low 10v range. When I bought the truck I have now it had a less than 3 yr old yellow top in it (date was indicated on the top), I also figured out why a napa battery was in the bed. After I installed my system I could not do ANY engine off listening/tuning without my SS amp giving the low voltage squeal of death within 3 minutes so I put in the battery I have now. When you have to use a lap top to make adjustments to your audio system it isn't worth while to also contend with engine noise and leaving an intelligent charger on your car while tuning is not exactly good on the charger.

For your set up I would check your state of charge on your battery, check your grounds, get your alt checked, do the big 3 and then go from there. If you are having to pull 100-200 amps from your batteries which at 11 volts you would be how is a 100 amp alt going to run the car, the audio system and put back 100's of amps into the battery as fast as it can pull it out? Judging from your videos you are pulling alot more at idle than your alt can put out. If your are subjecting your battery to that it will lag behind. If your car is only putting out 100 amps max even when you are driving it down the highway you would be pulling from the battery often when the bass hits.
I tried telling him he needed a bigger alt & 1/0 big 3....then I got jumped saying he needs another battery. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
if that is true then how do 1000's of other people run 2 to 3 times the power for years with a stock alt and 2-3 batteries?

I know logic says yeah an h/o alt to charge batteries ect... but he has 1400 watts!!! and that is only at full tilt!! he has an electrical problem somewhere....that is obvious! several people told him to test batteries/alt do big 3 ect and put the other battery back in... he is losing voltage somewhere due to a wiring issue ( grounds / terminals lose ect ) or a bad alt/battery...

if 1400 rms needed an H/O alt the people that make them would be working overtime and everyone would have them....

I am sorry .... I just do not see an H/O alt "fixing" his issues... I see it as a bandaid for the real problem..

 
if that is true then how do 1000's of other people run 2 to 3 times the power for years with a stock alt and 2-3 batteries?
I know logic says yeah an h/o alt to charge batteries ect... but he has 1400 watts!!! and that is only at full tilt!! he has an electrical problem somewhere....that is obvious! several people told him to test batteries/alt do big 3 ect and put the other battery back in... he is losing voltage somewhere due to a wiring issue ( grounds / terminals lose ect ) or a bad alt/battery...

if 1400 rms needed an H/O alt the people that make them would be working overtime and everyone would have them....

I am sorry .... I just do not see an H/O alt "fixing" his issues... I see it as a bandaid for the real problem..
How could removing a deficit be a bandaid? Adding reserve that can only last so long is a bandaid.

 
plain and simple he needs to find what is causing the severe voltage drop... I am betting his alt is on it's last leg or he has a loose connection somewhere..... and a new Stock alt should be more than sufficient with the 2 batteries he already has..

 
How could removing a deficit be a bandaid? Adding reserve that can only last so long is a bandaid.
because if hes got a bad batt what is that ho alt going to do.. feed more power to a ****** batt. why not just find out what the real problem is and save him some money. thats what hes trying to do anyways. that amp is probably realistically only doink 1k. if hes hammering . no way that should drop the way it does. need to go to autozone and have batt and alt checked and go from there

 
plain and simple he needs to find what is causing the severe voltage drop... I am betting his alt is on it's last leg or he has a loose connection somewhere..... and a new Stock alt should be more than sufficient with the 2 batteries he already has..
Agreed. If the problem is not the alternator the bottleneck MUST be found and fixed. Usually it is a ground. I disagree though, that replacing a burned out stock alt with another stock alt will permanently fix the problem. The alt burned out for a reason. We've debated what that reason was, so I'll not get back into that but if it wasn't sufficient for the load and burned out before, there is no reason to think a clone of that same alt would do any better.

 
because if hes got a bad batt what is that ho alt going to do.. feed more power to a ****** batt. why not just find out what the real problem is and save him some money. thats what hes trying to do anyways. that amp is probably realistically only doink 1k. if hes hammering . no way that should drop the way it does. need to go to autozone and have batt and alt checked and go from there
You have a point but not when quoting my remarks. I prefaced the remark with "removing a deficit". If the alt is in fact sufficient, it is not a deficit. If the battery is the deficit, replacing it with one that is not bad is... that's right... removing the deficit.

 
if that is true then how do 1000's of other people run 2 to 3 times the power for years with a stock alt and 2-3 batteries?
I know logic says yeah an h/o alt to charge batteries ect... but he has 1400 watts!!! and that is only at full tilt!! he has an electrical problem somewhere....that is obvious! several people told him to test batteries/alt do big 3 ect and put the other battery back in... he is losing voltage somewhere due to a wiring issue ( grounds / terminals lose ect ) or a bad alt/battery...

if 1400 rms needed an H/O alt the people that make them would be working overtime and everyone would have them....

I am sorry .... I just do not see an H/O alt "fixing" his issues... I see it as a bandaid for the real problem..
Most guys with 10,000 watt systems are not playing them full blast daily, when someone has a 1400 wattish system and they want to bump they are more apt to bump because besides the fact they are not destroying their vehicle it is also at a level that they can still drive the car and see straight. If the voltage was falling with the optima like it was with the kinetik that means its the alt. If either battery can not maintain a charge in the car it is the alt...A not working correctly B not big enough to do as he wants.

 
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