kinetik *****

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

i bought a kinetick 1800 to replace my optima cus supposedly they are so great, and they probably are. but in my situation it made no differance.

i still get extreme dimming and my voltage gets down to 11 volts where my amps just shut on and off unless i back off the volume.

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[Bob Saget]

Need more information than just "Kinetik sucks." Please list your vehicle model, any electrical upgrades, & all of your audio gear. People will be happy to assist you, but we aren't mind readers. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

By the way, completely off-topic, but Madison Bumgarner is my boy. Just thought I'd throw that in there since you're in the bay area. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[Drummer65 10+ year member]

H/O alt and maybe a bigger bat in the rear. Adding a deka 9a31 in the trunk fixed my amp from turning off due to voltage drops. Getting a bigger battery will fix your issue with the amp cutting out but your still going to need a H/O sooner or later. Your also going to mess up your amp if you allow your amp to see voltage that low.

 

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

Need more information than just "Kinetik sucks." Please list your vehicle model, any electrical upgrades, & all of your audio gear. People will be happy to assist you, but we aren't mind readers. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
By the way, completely off-topic, but Madison Bumgarner is my boy. Just thought I'd throw that in there since you're in the bay area. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

haha thanks. i was just sharing my disappointment. point is, is i figured the kinetick would make a noticable differance compared to the yellow top. and i dont see it.

gear info is in my sig, but here it goes:

2005 Lexus GS300

-Kicker 0 gauge wiring to distro....0 gauge to sae mono and 4 gauge to jbl 4 channel

-Stock NAV unit w/ MTX RE-Q5 Prcessor

-Sundown SAE 1200 V2

-JBL CSS60.4 (Sundown 50.4 soon)

-Diamond Audio D662 Components all around

-10" RE Audio SE's (x's 2) in 4th order box, ported through rear deck

 

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

H/O alt and maybe a bigger bat in the rear. Adding a deka 9a31 in the trunk fixed my amp from turning off due to voltage drops. Getting a bigger battery will fix your issue with the amp cutting out but your still going to need a H/O sooner or later. Your also going to mess up your amp if you allow your amp to see voltage that low.

i know h/o alt is needed. but they run about 500 for a lexus. thats a lot lol

il do big 3 before h/o. im running about 1800 watts assuming everything is running at rms (which i highly doubt at such low voltage), so either way its not THAT THAT much to where i need to completely upgrade all my electrical. is it? i figured good batt and big 3 would do it

 

[Bob Saget]

i know h/o alt is needed. but they run about 500 for a lexus. thats a lot lol il do big 3 before h/o. im running about 1800 watts assuming everything is running at rms (which i highly doubt at such low voltage), so either way its not THAT THAT much to where i need to completely upgrade all my electrical. is it? i figured good batt and big 3 would do it

You need to do the Big 3 in 1/0 & get a h/o alternator. That is 2x more RMS power than your stock alt. can keep up with. It's not the battery dude, your alternator can''t charge it fast enough.

I'm sure you can get a h/o alt for under $500, but even that beats replacing those amps & your battery when you fry them from low voltage.

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

you definately do not need an H/O alt for that little power...

you def need big3 and what guage is the wire? 0 and still have voltage drop?

did you say you had a toylexotaus?

might wanna check if they use the variable resistance alternator... some honda and toyota ( lexus is a toyota) use them... it may be the problem the voltage drops..

I have seen and even installed and driven cars with way way less wiring on more than 2 times the power with just exttra batts and never had that much problem...

even on stock 80-100 amp alts...

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

hmmm your car only calls for a 100 amp stock alt and it shouldnt be the ECM voltage controlled style either...

 

[Bob Saget]

you definately do not need an H/O alt for that little power...
you def need big3 and what guage is the wire? 0 and still have voltage drop?

did you say you had a toylexotaus?

might wanna check if they use the variable resistance alternator... some honda and toyota ( lexus is a toyota) use them... it may be the problem the voltage drops..

I have seen and even installed and driven cars with way way less wiring on more than 2 times the power with just exttra batts and never had that much problem...

even on stock 80-100 amp alts...

That car has a small & weak alternator, pulls a lot of current for all the factory electrical, & 1,800w is a good bit of power. Just my .02 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

i know h/o alt is needed. but they run about 500 for a lexus. thats a lot lol il do big 3 before h/o. im running about 1800 watts assuming everything is running at rms (which i highly doubt at such low voltage), so either way its not THAT THAT much to where i need to completely upgrade all my electrical. is it? i figured good batt and big 3 would do it

Sundown SAE 1200 V2

-JBL CSS60.4 (Sundown 50.4 soon)

that adds up to 1440 watts... any stock setup should handle it with ease with an hc1800 battery....

 

[Bob Saget]

Sundown SAE 1200 V2-JBL CSS60.4 (Sundown 50.4 soon)

that adds up to 1440 watts... any stock setup should handle it with ease with an hc1800 battery....

The 100A alternator in that model Lexus, & all Lexus models in general, have weak alternators. They are small for all the electrical the vehicle has to begin with, adding 1,440w is just straining it even more.

 

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

yeah i didnt think 1400 watts was THAT much. i realize that it is a bigger demand than the alt can put out, but like i said i thought the kinetik would do a lot of help and it isnt guess il do big 3 and just hope this does the trick, cus ive heard of a lot of people run a lot of power off stock alt and even stock battery on even 4 gauge.

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

it gives room to ponder thats for sure...

especially on the alternators ground side... they are tiny on Jap made cars..

big 3 then see if it helps..

personally I woulda left the optima in the factory location and "ADDED" the 1800 to it...

 

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

You need to do the Big 3 in 1/0 & get a h/o alternator. That is 2x more RMS power than your stock alt. can keep up with. It's not the battery dude, your alternator can''t charge it fast enough.
I'm sure you can get a h/o alt for under $500, but even that beats replacing those amps & your battery when you fry them from low voltage.

yeah a new alt would benefit me more and would be cheaper in the end. but 500 adds up on me lol. i just dont seem to think a h/o should be necessary for me, my system isnt big enough

you definately do not need an H/O alt for that little power...
you def need big3 and what guage is the wire? 0 and still have voltage drop?

did you say you had a toylexotaus?

might wanna check if they use the variable resistance alternator... some honda and toyota ( lexus is a toyota) use them... it may be the problem the voltage drops..

I have seen and even installed and driven cars with way way less wiring on more than 2 times the power with just exttra batts and never had that much problem...

even on stock 80-100 amp alts...

yup ive heard this too, which is y im pissed at kinetik, i thought the 1800 would take care of it and then id do the big3 just to help out anyways, but the 1800 on its own aint doing ****. 1400 watts isnt THAT much, ive seen/heard alotmore watts on stock electrical and smaller wiring.

That car has a small & weak alternator, pulls a lot of current for all the factory electrical, & 1,800w is a good bit of power. Just my .02 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

The 100A alternator in that model Lexus, & all Lexus models in general, have weak alternators. They are small for all the electrical the vehicle has to begin with, adding 1,440w is just straining it even more.

so what should i do? big 3 and switch the 1800 for a 2000 or something? or was the 1800 too small to begin with? need some help. dont wana mess up amps and i hate amps shutting on/off plus all the dimming

 

[Bob Saget]

At 13.8V, which is normal operating range for a vehicle, 1,440w will pull 104A. Most vehicles factory electrical will require 60-80% of the alternators output. Will split the difference & say 70%, which is 70A. You're now at 174A. I have always been told that an alternator can keep up with 160% of it's rated amperage, & that's at peak output. So my opinion is that it is too much strain on the alternator & it needs to be upgraded. The Kinetik 1800HC you have is more than enough, you just need to upgrade your Big 3 with 1/0 & add an alternator with a higher amp rating. Right now all you're doing is burning up your factory alternator, shortening the life of your battery, & running the risk of frying your amplifiers.

FYI, connect your Big 3 as follows:

alternator to battery + (fused)

alternator casing to battery -

alternator casing to frame

alternator casing to fender or firewall (whichever one has more factory grounds connected to it)

Also, try running both the amplifier 1/0 power & 1/0 ground directly to the battery.