It Has Begun... donpisto's '06 G35 Sedan Install

[Worlddre 5,000+ posts]

what do you need the LOC if you are using the pxe?

heads up there is a giant gromet on the passenger side of the car behind the batt...if you take off all the plastic covering around the battery up to the windshield you will see it....however do not cut with a razor take a phillips screwdriver and poke a hole in it and work the power wire through it this will create a seal as you need one in this case as the grommet is facing downward and we dont want water on the passengers feet.....also with the pxe use both of the front inputs (which it doesnt tell you to in the manual) this will prevent a problem with output from the unit that i have run into a couple of times....and in case you didnt already know everything you need for the pxe install is under the rear deck on the drivers side. that is the factory amplifier location....take your input for the pxe from the factory amplifier input side not the output as the inputs are full range and the outputs are crossed over. that is all.....have fun

and a pic of the last g sedan i did just for fun and maybe an idear or two

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

what do you need the LOC if you are using the pxe?
heads up there is a giant gromet on the passenger side of the car behind the batt...if you take off all the plastic covering around the battery up to the windshield you will see it....however do not cut with a razor take a phillips screwdriver and poke a hole in it and work the power wire through it this will create a seal as you need one in this case as the grommet is facing downward and we dont want water on the passengers feet.....also with the pxe use both of the front inputs (which it doesnt tell you to in the manual) this will prevent a problem with output from the unit that i have run into a couple of times....and in case you didnt already know everything you need for the pxe install is under the rear deck on the drivers side. that is the factory amplifier location....take your input for the pxe from the factory amplifier input side not the output as the inputs are full range and the outputs are crossed over. that is all.....have fun

and a pic of the last g sedan i did just for fun and maybe an idear or two

Thanks for the info. I figured I would need a LOC for preout voltage, I just assumed that it is 2V with the H650, not sure and I don't remember seeing anything when looking at specs, I should look into it though.

 

[ughhibye 10+ year member]

you locked the keys in the trunk

 

[Megalomaniac 5,000+ posts]

RoFL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[ughhibye 10+ year member]

nice build by the way

 

[Worlddre 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the info. I figured I would need a LOC for preout voltage, I just assumed that it is 2V with the H650, not sure and I don't remember seeing anything when looking at specs, I should look into it though.

as long as you use both of the front input preout voltage should not cause a problem

 

[LDW3RD 10+ year member]

nice car, great equipment good luck on the build.

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the compliments guys.

Ah ok, gotcha.

 

[jbizzle 5,000+ posts]

OP,

I thought I saw you yesterday, I saw pretty much the same car/rims, but then I noticed you're in California //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

OP,
I thought I saw you yesterday, I saw pretty much the same car/rims, but then I noticed you're in California //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

I must have a double I don't know about, lol.

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

Well, I'm already deciding to change things up. Just heard James Bang's setup and it was intense. The midbass he has is what I'm looking for. So I'm going to see about getting 10" midbass drivers (Peerless SLS) in my doors. Doing so would require me to get another amp. I might sell the 9.0 and go with a 6.0 since even then it would be plenty of power for the JL 15w6.

The choices in amps would be as follows:

Option 1:An additional 4.0. I would then be able to use the 2nd 4.0 and bridge them onto the SLS 10's. More expensive, but more power for the midbass.

Option 2: An additional 2.0. I could put the mids on the 4.0 and the tweeters on the 2.0. This is a little cheaper, but the SLS's wouldn't get as much power.

I still have to see if it can be done. I may end up modding the doors after all. The SLS's are almost 5" deep, just have to do some measuring.

I kind of want to go this route, even though it is a little more expensive because the midbass, as mentioned, is what I want and I don't think the 6.5's will give me what I'm looking for. Plus, I don't know of may people running 10's in their doors and for a G35, it would be a first.

 

[LDW3RD 10+ year member]

where can James Bangs set be seen?

 

[truckramrod 10+ year member]

That is some nice equipment you have, it should sound steller!

By the way, where did you get a BNIB 15w6?

Also the sticker on the back of your magnet states "Made in the USA 115w6", but the 15w6 I have doesn't say that unless it all has been scratched off in all of the right places (my sub is pretty beat up).

I've found the sub performs well in 1.5 cubes or so. Also it plays LOW!

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

That is some nice equipment you have, it should sound steller!
By the way, where did you get a BNIB 15w6?

Also the sticker on the back of your magnet states "Made in the USA 115w6", but the 15w6 I have doesn't say that unless it all has been scratched off in all of the right places (my sub is pretty beat up).

I've found the sub performs well in 1.5 cubes or so. Also it plays LOW!

Nice to know that 1.5 cubes works great, because I'm aiming for around there. I bought the sub off DS-21 from the DIYMA forum. Is yours the 15w6, or the 15w6 AE (anniversary edition)? From what I have heard, they are the same, but the stickers are different colors.

 

[Worlddre 5,000+ posts]

Well, I'm already deciding to change things up. Just heard James Bang's setup and it was intense. The midbass he has is what I'm looking for. So I'm going to see about getting 10" midbass drivers (Peerless SLS) in my doors. Doing so would require me to get another amp. I might sell the 9.0 and go with a 6.0 since even then it would be plenty of power for the JL 15w6.
The choices in amps would be as follows:

Option 1:An additional 4.0. I would then be able to use the 2nd 4.0 and bridge them onto the SLS 10's. More expensive, but more power for the midbass.

Option 2: An additional 2.0. I could put the mids on the 4.0 and the tweeters on the 2.0. This is a little cheaper, but the SLS's wouldn't get as much power.

I still have to see if it can be done. I may end up modding the doors after all. The SLS's are almost 5" deep, just have to do some measuring.

I kind of want to go this route, even though it is a little more expensive because the midbass, as mentioned, is what I want and I don't think the 6.5's will give me what I'm looking for. Plus, I don't know of may people running 10's in their doors and for a G35, it would be a first.

i take it you havent taken your doors off yet....you quite possibly the best set of doors for midbass...... the entire door is an already sealed enclosure.... 10 10mm bolts hold on one side of said enclosure that you can simply undo and remove and have enough access to lay whole un cut sheets of deadner on....a set of 7s or 8s would give you more midbass then you could imagine in that car...10s are not necessary.....i did a pair of these car a couple of months back using focal polyglass components even with no deadening in either set of doors midbass was felt in every seat in the car