Isn't it theoretically better to

skylineTT
10+ year member

bass=sekz
just run 0 gauge from alternator posi to battery posi, alternator ground to batt negative, 2 power wires from the battery to the amp positive and negative? i want to do the big 3 with 2/0 and a posi and neg from the batt to the amp, but then thought that i might as well run a wire from the alt case to the batt neg. is this wrong?

 
just run 0 gauge from alternator posi to battery posi, alternator ground to batt negative, 2 power wires from the battery to the amp positive and negative? i want to do the big 3 with 2/0 and a posi and neg from the batt to the amp, but then thought that i might as well run a wire from the alt case to the batt neg. is this wrong?


It sound alright...

 
is it better than the big 3? considering there is no loss through the chassis and stuff. i will still ground the batt to the chassis anyway but i figure there would be less loss through a wire to the batt rather than through the engine and chassis.

 
your alternator is probably connected to a giant block of iron, which is connected to your engine block. On my car, its a lot easier to access ANY spot on the engine than it is to access a bolt on the alternator.

Ground your engine block to your bat -. Because the alt is grounded to the engine block.

 
You BETTER ground the battery to the chassis.

All of the stock electronics in your car use the chassis as a ground, which uses the bat - as a ground. This includes headlights, stereo, tail lights, etc.

 
yeah i will still do that. but my alternator is connected to a small piece of aluminum which is bolted onto aluminum cylender heads, which are only touching a cast iron block because of 8 steel bolts. the block touches the chassis through bolts as well. i figure i could ground the alt to chassis, batt to chassis, run posi from alt to batt posi. then batt neg to alternator ground and power wires to my amp from the batt. lol lots of wire for teh ultimate current

 
yeah i will still do that. but my alternator is connected to a small piece of aluminum which is bolted onto aluminum cylender heads, which are only touching a cast iron block because of 8 steel bolts. the block touches the chassis through bolts as well. i figure i could ground the alt to chassis, batt to chassis, run posi from alt to batt posi. then batt neg to alternator ground and power wires to my amp from the batt. lol lots of wire for teh ultimate current
Sure, that will be fine if you wanna go about it that way.

 
I'm sure if you wanted to go all out you could.

Alt + to Battery

Alt - to battery

battery - to chassis.

engine block to chassis.

That way If theres anything from the engine thats grounded to the chassis Would be getting even power.And If theres anything thats grounded to the engine would be getting all the same current.

Now some of you may think I'm just babbling on about nothing and dont know what im talking about but seems beneficial to me.

 
I'm sure if you wanted to go all out you could.Alt + to Battery

Alt - to battery

battery - to chassis.

engine block to chassis.

That way If theres anything from the engine thats grounded to the chassis Would be getting even power.And If theres anything thats grounded to the engine would be getting all the same current.

Now some of you may think I'm just babbling on about nothing and dont know what im talking about but seems beneficial to me.
I work with to many dam newfies, I saw you were from St. John's then when I read your post I heard it in the accent. lol

 
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skylineTT

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