Is this design Moe made a little off?

[j3bus2k3 5,000+ posts]

The Fleckstone went on very easy, Goes on thick, don't shake the can. I put some clear over it to prevent it from flaking off. I like the texture thought it's cool....
here's another pic of it...

So besides maybe knocking on the wood with some 80 grit and maybe something finer, you wouldnt do too much to prep it?

 

[lilmaniac2 5,000+ posts]

all of the moe lester plans are like that that i have looked at...

kinda sucks, butoh well

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

So besides maybe knocking on the wood with some 80 grit and maybe something finer, you wouldnt do too much to prep it?

Ah yes, I actually Just sprayed the wood with some primer shown on the right in the below image, then after that hit it up with some plain flat black so any spots I missed with fleckstone wouldn't show...

I never ended up using the black on the left, I returned it to get can's of black lacquer to give my box that gloss finish. Lacquer wetsands down great to an amazing shine...

lilmaniac2 - I havn't checked out the others. At least they are a good base to start with. As a noob never building a box before they helped me out alot.

 

[j3bus2k3 5,000+ posts]

Ah yes, I actually Just sprayed the wood with some primer shown on the right in the below image, then after that hit it up with some plain flat black so any spots I missed with fleckstone wouldn't show...

Awesome, I just repeat that process since it seems it came out reall nice. Thanks mang.
[/QUOTE]

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

I think that I know what he did, and I don't think that it's wrong. To get the proper tuning, notice how the EFFECTIVE port length extends further out than the wood itself. The end correction makes the proper port length, but it would be simply worthless to have such another small piece of wood and have 6" of port width, versus a little less and still have proper tuning. It looks fine to me.

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

I think that I know what he did, and I don't think that it's wrong. To get the proper tuning, notice how the EFFECTIVE port length extends further out than the wood itself. The end correction makes the proper port length, but it would be simply worthless to have such another small piece of wood and have 6" of port width, versus a little less and still have proper tuning. It looks fine to me.

Good point PV, I see what your saying. I got 32hz for tuning though with a 6" wide port. How did he get 34hz with keeping the port 19.25" long?

 

[Goldtaz1 10+ year member]

So you're not going to use what I made for you?

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

So you're not going to use what I made for you?

I'm still building off of that design you made for me, thanks again. I'm starting to fully understand everything now, especially after having a knowedgeable person like you help me out. This thread has nothing to do with my 18" BTL build taht I'm doing tomorrow, this was just an old design that I made for a couple of Type R's a few month ago. With all the reviewing of box designing for my BTL I decided to review the last box I made off of Moe's design and thats when I noticed the "flaw in the port length and tuning"

 

[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

yes the length of the port wall is .75" to long.

after fixing the port wall length to 18.6" to allow for the proper clearance of 6" at the port end.

i figured that to tune the enclosure to 34Hz or close to that with the internal enclosure volume of 5.272cf and the port parameters of W:6" x H:12.5" you have to have a port at 29.5" in length for the enclosure to be tuned to 34Hz, now using the port end correction of around 0.8488 for Two flanged ends, that brings the physical length of the port to 26". wish is what is drawn on the plans.