Is This Acceptable??

Yeah, after OP installs his 12th amp he'll be happy he spent his time and money putting a relay on there.

So I guess 4 bucks is so expensive than for you. And I'm adding a third amp so let's see here. 3 amps plus a eq you would run all off of your remote wire? I think I will spend that extra 5 minutes for the protection than just wire it all straight to the head unit.
 
So I guess 4 bucks is so expensive than for you. And I'm adding a third amp so let's see here. 3 amps plus a eq you would run all off of your remote wire? I think I will spend that extra 5 minutes for the protection than just wire it all straight to the head unit.
3 amps and an EQ would be roughly 70mA if they use the same method as my RF amp. This page is a pretty high quality relay that gives good data on what it can and can't do.


Note that the rated operating current is higher on all 12V models, starting at 117mA. Now, you could of course say that this gives you peace of mind when you're buying random amps if they have a horribly made remote on circuit, but I think it's industry standard. You can always test it with a basic multimeter if you need assurance.
 
Honestly, each amp is going to be slightly delayed from each other amp as well so they shouldn't be pulling max amps to turn all the amps on at the same time anyway.

I tested that as well, there was no overshoot at all even with inrush current detect, lending credence to it being a transistor switch that enables a relay using battery power rather than remote.

Nevermind, that's innacurate. It over shoots but only very briefly (doubles). So the final amount of amps you could load on one HU is about 9 if they all pull at once to the remote circuit or a few more if you assume it won't blow instantly from double power which is a pretty safe assumption, but definitely not 18-30 depending on your HU :p
 
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I have 4AWG power from battery split to 8AWG at distribution block with 80a fuses on each side.
I ran 8awg ofc for a simple setup with a 600w class d. It went into protect a few times. It stayed in protect after the fourth time. I would run another 4awg for peace of mind. I am running that same amp in my truck which is wired up the ying yang, it is working awesome so far (since last night). So I figure 8awg was lacking for 600w rms.
 
3 amps plus a eq you would run all off of your remote wire?
Would and have within the last year. We have proven that if you have fewer than 8 amplifiers that the relay actually draws more current. Now if you're running neon/lights/fans/etc. yes you should use relays but for pre-amps, amps, EQs and similar you're just adding more things that can go wrong and will take up space.
 
Thank you everyone for your insight, honestly helps ALOT!! So in conclusion, it would be ok to also run one last item off of HU remote? Soundstream BX-10X epicenter?
 
Would and have within the last year. We have proven that if you have fewer than 8 amplifiers that the relay actually draws more current. Now if you're running neon/lights/fans/etc. yes you should use relays but for pre-amps, amps, EQs and similar you're just adding more things that can go wrong and will take up space.
Like I said we have a difference of opinion on this. I feel safer running a relay on my setup. After all the research I have read it always suggested to do that so I did. To me 5 bucks is worth the piece of mind.
 
It adds resistance, and it's pointless.

The reason the power wire is fused is to protect it from accidental contact with ground (about any metal in the car). When that happens the current spike blows the fuse almost immediately.

On the ground side that is clearly not an issue as the ground wire requires contact with the chassis (or (-) battery post) to complete the circuit.
 
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