Is there a good mid bass driver out there?

Gave the pwk78's a look. Maybe I'm being a snob or I'm looking at the situation incorrectly, but when I see a speaker marketed as a midrange with a usable frequency range between let's say 80-5000, I don't think mid bass. I don't doubt that a lot of these mid range speakers are capable of producing mid bass but I also don't think that's what they're designed for. When I see an x max of 10+mm, a FS of 35, and a usable frequency range of 30-2000 I think of a true mid bass. I cant imagine there are tons and tons of customers looking for a mid bass to pair with high powered spl subwoofers so maybe that's why there are so few options. Most people (me included until now) just run a mid/tweeter component set and call it a day with great success. Even my brother who has 4 8 inch sundowns on 4,000 watts is running a 3 way JL c5 set. It sounds good but his mid bass could definitely use some clarity. Just sounds off when you have 145+ dbs in the 20-100 range, wimpy midbass, and then right back to powerful mids and highs
 
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I did find a nice mid bass from deaf bounce
Deaf Bonce Machete LW-80A4
They also have a 6.5 option. Only problem is that I can't find any online store that will ship to the US.
 

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Gave the pwk78's a look. Maybe I'm being a snob or I'm looking at the situation incorrectly, but when I see a speaker marketed as a midrange with a usable frequency range between let's say 80-5000, I don't think mid bass. I don't doubt that a lot of these mid range speakers are capable of producing mid bass but I also don't think that's what they're designed for. When I see an x max of 10+mm, a FS of 35, and a usable frequency range of 30-2000 I think of a true mid bass. I cant imagine there are tons and tons of customers looking for a mid bass to pair with high powered spl subwoofers so maybe that's why there are so few options. Most people (me included until now) just run a mid/tweeter component set and call it a day with great success. Even my brother who has 4 8 inch sundowns on 4,000 watts is running a 3 way JL c5 set. It sounds good but his mid bass could definitely use some clarity. Just sounds off when you have 145+ dbs in the 20-100 range, wimpy midbass, and then right back to powerful mids and highs

this is why i told you not to look at graphs and numbers because real world performance is way different. this is mines crossover at 63 hz at 6 db slope the 8s can play just as deep. The PWX is actually not a midrange at all, they cant play upper midrange properly, they are actually much better suited for a dedicated midbass. Out of all the drivers i've used, these produced the most amount of midbass next to a JL zr800 which costs almost tenfold. I can even turn off my high pass filter and i dont even need a subwoofer. Meanwhile you got some "audiophile" midbass drivers that cant play midbass for absolute **** but it claims it can go down to 42 hz, looks good on graphs etc... but the actual real world performance is complete and utter garbage and you wasted 200-300 dollars on the midbass. Speaking from personal experience from a person that looks at numbers and graphs just like you.
 
this is why i told you not to look at graphs and numbers because real world performance is way different. this is mines crossover at 63 hz at 6 db slope the 8s can play just as deep. The PWX is actually not a midrange at all, they cant play upper midrange properly, they are actually much better suited for a dedicated midbass. Out of all the drivers i've used, these produced the most amount of midbass next to a JL zr800 which costs almost tenfold. I can even turn off my high pass filter and i dont even need a subwoofer. Meanwhile you got some "audiophile" midbass drivers that cant play midbass for absolute **** but it claims it can go down to 42 hz, looks good on graphs etc... but the actual real world performance is complete and utter garbage and you wasted 200-300 dollars on the midbass. Speaking from personal experience from a person that looks at numbers and graphs just like you.

This has spoken volumes to me. Nice DEH80 btw. I think I'm going to stop being so stubborn and move away from numbers and graphs and focus on real world. To help me out some, do you have those in a ported or sealed enclosure?
 
This has spoken volumes to me. Nice DEH80 btw. I think I'm going to stop being so stubborn and move away from numbers and graphs and focus on real world. To help me out some, do you have those in a ported or sealed enclosure?
infinite baffle, not even fully sealed, there's leaks every where. My buddy's mustang one pwx 8 per door is fully sealed and deadened and his midbass hits hard as my two 10s. I've been too lazy to do a full seal and deaden and i'm underpowered as well. his has 300 watts per 8 fully powered.
 
Makes me think that 2 8's per door (possibly center console if I cant get them to fit) in a ported enclosure might be too much lol. I've definitely made my decision though. I'm gonna go ahead and pick up 4 and see what I can make fit. Thank you for helping me see through all the numbers and graphs.
 
Makes me think that 2 8's per door (possibly center console if I cant get them to fit) in a ported enclosure might be too much lol. I've definitely made my decision though. I'm gonna go ahead and pick up 4 and see what I can make fit. Thank you for helping me see through all the numbers and graphs.
they arent good at midrange though, definitely needs to be in a 3 way active front stage with a dedicated midrange. They are good up to 1-2khz response at the most but better low passed 500hz below and then just unload power to them.
 
they arent good at midrange though, definitely needs to be in a 3 way active front stage with a dedicated midrange. They are good up to 1-2khz response at the most but better low passed 500hz below and then just unload power to them.
I plan on using 5-1/4's as dedicated mids with 1" tweets in a component set. I also run a DEH80. Plan currently is to use network mode to cut out the sub at 80hz and cut in the mid bass at 80 hz. Then I'll have everything set to full range on the head unit and rely on amplifier crossovers and component set crossovers to do the rest. Will probably set the low pass at 300 for the mid bass but might go higher depending on how it sounds. Then I'll set the high pass for the component set at whatever I cut the mid bass out at. the supplied crossover will do its thing from there, effectively giving me 4 networks.
 
I had my four PWX 10s sealed and they were insane on a Taramps DSP3000. I ended up swapping them to UN-10s though. I just wanted a "brighter" sounding mid.


I've never had an issue with Auto TA or Auto EQ though. Not perfect but did a decent job in my focus and F150.
 
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20 hz bass machine

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