Is it just me or do Type R components ****?!?!!?

...Unless you pit them against Kappas, then everyone will bash them. Most of course, having only heard them running off a head unit...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
What did you mean by "bridging the speakers"??? Do you mean you're bridging your amp that was powering your comps.??
I used Y cables on the front speakers rca cable to connect the HU to the AMP. Left lead to front and rear left RCA input on the amp, Right lead to front and rear right input on the amp. Then bridged the front left speaker to the front channel of the amp, and the front right speaker to the rear channel of the amp. So what voltage should I get and with what formula so i can set my gains? Should I take a picture and post it, I re-read what I wrote about hoooking it up and it seems confusing.

 
I used Y cables on the front speakers rca cable to connect the HU to the AMP. Left lead to front and rear left RCA input on the amp, Right lead to front and rear right input on the amp. Then bridged the front left speaker to the front channel of the amp, and the front right speaker to the rear channel of the amp. So what voltage should I get and with what formula so i can set my gains? Should I take a picture and post it, I re-read what I wrote about hoooking it up and it seems confusing.

Ok, so you bridged a 4 channel amp down to 2 channels??

 
If they are popping at high volumes crossed at 150 then you have the bass turned up really high or some type of bass boost on. Mine are crossed at 80 and I have a hard time getting them to pop at high volumes with any type of music.

 
My bad I ****ed up my HU a little. They were crossed at 40, I dunno what I was talking about with 150. Crossed it back at 150 and it's fine. But I unbridged everything and set it back to 4 channel mode because my car couldn't handle the load of both those amps pushing mass wattage and was cutting out cuz all i have is a stock alt and a yellow top.

Plus no one was able to help me with the gain setting so I got over it. You'd think someone on here would know it??? Whatever though.

 
im never around this fourm much but the r's take way more then 70rms give them around 140. just use the passive crossover they come with and let your HU play on full rage. in my opinion they are excellent speakers considering you can get them for under 150$$ they really need alot more power then recomended though to really sound good.

work on sealing them off better and bridge your amp agian to give them 150rms each. and it will still see a 4ohm load not 8 by the way

 
I don't know what it means to be running active. I see people writing about it all the time but never really looked into it cuz I get the sense that it's all very compliceated. The only ways I'm crossing em over is setting the HP on the HU to 80 with a 12db slope and then the crossovers that came with the Type R's are being used inline with all the wiring and the little plug taht slips over the 2 prongs are on the 0db setting for the tweeters. Does that help? Should I be doing it some way else?

 
I don't know what it means to be running active. I see people writing about it all the time but never really looked into it cuz I get the sense that it's all very compliceated. The only ways I'm crossing em over is setting the HP on the HU to 80 with a 12db slope and then the crossovers that came with the Type R's are being used inline with all the wiring and the little plug taht slips over the 2 prongs are on the 0db setting for the tweeters. Does that help? Should I be doing it some way else?
Lets start with the basics.

Active crossover - preamp......in other words the high pass and low pass of the frequencies is done BEFORE the amplifier in the signal chain.

Passive crossover - AFTER the amp. Example of a passive is like the crossover that came with your Type R components.

So when you hear someone talking about going active it means they are NOT using the passive crossovers that come with component sets. They're using an active X-over or a processor that has one and sending a preamp siganl to the amp that has already been filtered (high pass or low pass) to the amp that is powering a particular speaker. An example of that would be only sending high frequencies to an amp that will be powering the tweeters.

Hope that helped a little.

 
Yeah I'm definitly running a passive set up then. Sounds like an active set up offers a lot more tunability, and takes a lot more time to set up. Mainly for the sound quality guys then? I don't need that much adjustablilty on my crossovers. Just enough to get everything to blend nicely and come out nice and loud while staying loud you know?

One quick question to anybody that might know: Just how big of a difference is there between the Rainbow SLC 265 Kick and the Rainbow SLC 365 Kick speakers? The 365's have another midrange speaker in there includeing the midbass 6.5 and the tweeter right? It seems like if the 6.5 speaker is made just for the 80-180hz kickbass range taht it would make a lot more sense to have that 3rd speaker in there with the SLC 365 kick set up. Can anybody comment on this out of first had experience at all?

 
Buy a good head unit and have the settings on the readio and amp right and you'll have one of the best components in your car. Im tired of hearing people complain about their product when they dont know how to use them to get them at their best performance.

 
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