Inline fuse keeps blowing as soon as I start car

[ImMersion]

I used to have a 15" sub hooked up to my current system.

amp-1000watt rms at 1 ohm...sub wired at 1 ohm

Clarion mp3/cd player with 5v outs for front, rear, sub

inline 80 amp fused....uped to 100amp

4 guage power and ground wire

No voltage drop anywhere

RCA's disconnected from amp (so not a factor)

NOTHING CHANGED except i sold the 15"..and 2 month later bought a 10"

Ever since then it keeps blowing fuses when i turn the car and therefore HU on

With voltmeter - i get ~14v at the battery...on the short wire leading to the inline fuse holder ~14v, AND at the power wire in the trunk ~14v. I just put the + of the voltmeter on the wire, and the - to the ground spot i use. ~14v

I hook up the power wire to the amp, the ground wire and remote to the amp AND LEAVE THE CAR OFF.....still good, still ~14v

With both power and ground hooked up and car off, i DIRECTLY check the amp terminals and still ~14v

I turn the car on and BAM!! inline blows the 100 amp fuse? RCA's are off the whole time

What is going on??????????

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[Ferendon 10+ year member]

When you have the subs out, you didn't leave any bare speaker wire connected, did you?

 

[forbidden 10+ year member]

Sounds to me like the amp needs to go to the old amplifiers home in the sky. My bet is that you have fried the output stage or the power supply in the unit, the latter being the better bet. It will not blow a fuse until you applied +12v to the remote on line, as such the amp turns on. Disconnect the remote on line from the amp and tape it up. Retest again, the cd player should come on and the fuse should not blow. Next take a small jumper wire and touch it from the B+ on the amp to the remote on on the amp. If it blows the fuse, the amp is toast. There is a small small chance that it is the sub (although most amplifiers have a protection circuit for this), so disconnect the sub from the amp as well. Post up the results.

 

[ImMersion]

Im going to go ahead and try your method today...but what is a B+

Ive got the power side + and -, and speaker side + and -

Sounds to me like the amp needs to go to the old amplifiers home in the sky. My bet is that you have fried the output stage or the power supply in the unit, the latter being the better bet. It will not blow a fuse until you applied +12v to the remote on line, as such the amp turns on. Disconnect the remote on line from the amp and tape it up. Retest again, the cd player should come on and the fuse should not blow. Next take a small jumper wire and touch it from the B+ on the amp to the remote on on the amp. If it blows the fuse, the amp is toast. There is a small small chance that it is the sub (although most amplifiers have a protection circuit for this), so disconnect the sub from the amp as well. Post up the results.

 

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

The B+ is what most manufacturers call the power wire terminal.

 

[fourstaroots 10+ year member]

this happened to me before also, something in my amp blew and i needed to replace the amp itself.

 

[ImMersion]

Heres the thing .......I did leave the speaker wire on, but i taped the ends and made sure they were on opposite sides of the trunk...ya, lazy i know!

I have also physically opened up the amp and DID NOT SEE OR SMELL anything burnt so that is why I am having a hard time believe teh amp as blown....

When you have the subs out, you didn't leave any bare speaker wire connected, did you?

 

[93dakota 10+ year member]

Sounds to me like the amp needs to go to the old amplifiers home in the sky. My bet is that you have fried the output stage or the power supply in the unit, the latter being the better bet. It will not blow a fuse until you applied +12v to the remote on line, as such the amp turns on. Disconnect the remote on line from the amp and tape it up. Retest again, the cd player should come on and the fuse should not blow. Next take a small jumper wire and touch it from the B+ on the amp to the remote on on the amp. If it blows the fuse, the amp is toast. There is a small small chance that it is the sub (although most amplifiers have a protection circuit for this), so disconnect the sub from the amp as well. Post up the results.

basically he is saying run the remote directly to the bat. also make sue there are no loose strands going from the pos to the neg on the amp

 

[stophatin 10+ year member]

Sounds to me like the amp needs to go to the old amplifiers home in the sky. My bet is that you have fried the output stage or the power supply in the unit, the latter being the better bet. It will not blow a fuse until you applied +12v to the remote on line, as such the amp turns on. Disconnect the remote on line from the amp and tape it up. Retest again, the cd player should come on and the fuse should not blow. Next take a small jumper wire and touch it from the B+ on the amp to the remote on on the amp. If it blows the fuse, the amp is toast. There is a small small chance that it is the sub (although most amplifiers have a protection circuit for this), so disconnect the sub from the amp as well. Post up the results.

Listen to this man.

i had the same problem, kept blowing the underhood fuse on the power wire whenever i went to turn the system on. Turned out to be the Alpine amp for my subs had gone bad. It was slightly harder for me to diagnose since i have multiple amps and all that..... should be easy for you. Just do what forbidden said and cross your fingers.