I'm done running a .5ohm load

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

Usually your imp rise will go up to the next ohm level atleast with crescendo they do...
.5 -> 1

1 -> 4

etc

They did a clamp of it and that's how it looked.. IMO not the most efficient amps.

one piece of information you might want to know. the imp rise is not determine if an amp is efficient in anyway. rise comes from the enclosure and the subs not the amps.

 

[05trailblazer 10+ year member]

im looking forward to seeing some pics when done

 

[pimpnyou204 10+ year member]

one piece of information you might want to know. the imp rise is not determine if an amp is efficient in anyway. rise comes from the enclosure and the subs not the amps.

Absolutely. But side statement still stands. Personally I don't think their very efficient.
[/QUOTE]

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

For all of you that wanted to know about the swith from .5 to 2ohms. Here is the eval after some time with the new Kicker. My 45 minute drive to work opened my eyes to greatness.

On the Crescendo I would drop to the 12s quick, sometimes I would bounce back up sometimes not. This is at cruising speed about 2500 rpm.

On the Kicker under the same conditions I may have seen 13.4 for a second. Its louder and more clean the the Crescendo, the subs do heat up but not near as bad as the Crescendo, and it only happens when I push them real hard with some slowed Bass Mekanik stuff for a extended period of time.

It was raining this morning, it sounded like the windows were down with them up.

i think the amp has more in it but im not going to push it until i get my DD1.

Cliffs: The Kicker dominates the Crescendo in every way, except for it size. But I dont mind that

 

[Apollo220 10+ year member]

could be your batteries ?

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

ok, i'm lazy.... didn't read 5 pages, just most of page1, and some of page 5...... well, the only reason .5 can make more or less power than 2, is in comparing the 2 amps in question for efficinecy at those laods, now, i saw "box rise"... yup, you could be running .5, but that only applies to initial movement, and usually some tones, and rise will put you in a different load range. now, it would take some bit of readings, but i imagine that the one with the most rail sag is going to net the most average wattage, since the rail voltage is going to jump up as the resistance rises, and coincidentally the current drops. this is more or less voltage back-up, and i do believe that it is more characteristic of "high current" style amps, since the nature is to let them drop, rather than throw a protection cut-off from the drop. ideally, you want a lot of voltage back-up, but that is just not in the cards for any non-modded amp i've seen

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

ok, i'm lazy.... didn't read 5 pages, just most of page1, and some of page 5...... well, the only reason .5 can make more or less power than 2, is in comparing the 2 amps in question for efficinecy at those laods, now, i saw "box rise"... yup, you could be running .5, but that only applies to initial movement, and usually some tones, and rise will put you in a different load range. now, it would take some bit of readings, but i imagine that the one with the most rail sag is going to net the most average wattage, since the rail voltage is going to jump up as the resistance rises, and coincidentally the current drops. this is more or less voltage back-up, and i do believe that it is more characteristic of "high current" style amps, since the nature is to let them drop, rather than throw a protection cut-off from the drop. ideally, you want a lot of voltage back-up, but that is just not in the cards for any non-modded amp i've seen

English please.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

could be your batteries ?

I dont think so. i would top them off a few times a week trying to help. it didnt help

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

well, put simple, your amp transforms the 1v into a different higher voltage, through dc-ac-dc, andthe rails, are what feeds the transistors at said voltage. pretty much, you will get matched + and - voltages for the 2 rails. rails sag is like the voltage drop of your 12v system. think of it like this- bigger engines can see as low as 7-6v at the starter cranking the engine over. this is similar to what happens to the rail voltage at full tilt with minimum load. once you reach what you can put out at/near base voltage, then the extra current comes at the cost of voltage. wso, what i'm saying, is that an amp designed to run average with a bit more rail sag, then be pushed can recover, and sustain toal wattage when the box rise would otherwise rob power, since the recovery voltage is not jumping as high. really, the kicker zx amps are pretty nice, imho, but they are designed to operate in a small range of impeedance. will sound nice and strong...... but, really, just what do you have in the way of alternator(s) that does not drop your power supply on 2k? i have the biggest stock alt i've ever seen on a gasser in my tahoe @ 165a, and it is impressive at 1160rms with a drop in the high/mid 13's. i know that 2k would be a short play battery power for me, without an alternator upgrade. i guess what i'm saying about the loads, is that you get an amp with the most decent 4ohm rating vs min, and you will see more real musical power on a low load, for the most part

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

200 amp HO with 3 batts

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

200 amp HO with 3 batts

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

well when u get a chance pm me on how to do it the correct way so i can go do it and see what i get....and yes im serious ground not being sarcastic

Get an ACCURATE current clamp, figure out how to use it. You must measure current with the clamp and voltage with another DMM. Multiply the two numbers and that is your power, divide and that's impedence. Numbers will vary dramatically depending on the frequency you're playing. The noteable frequencies to be concerned with would be your lowest and your peak.

Note to OP: You should consider bypassing whatever is regulating your voltage now and getting an outboard regulator. It looks to me like it's the control mechanism and not your alternator or batteries that is inadequate. In fact a normal "12V" battery is supposed to be charging at 14.4 to 14.8V. More will hurt them really quick, and less isn't really doing them any favors either.

 

[bhsdriller 10+ year member]

didn't read they thread but with my crescendo 3500d at .5 doesnt drop voltage below 13.9 on music

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

didn't read they thread but with my crescendo 3500d at .5 doesnt drop voltage below 13.9 on music

I dont know man, maybe you have more rise then me. all i know is the ZX has much more punch and much better SQ overall. im going to try at get some meter time this weekend and she if there is any difference

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

didn't read they thread but with my crescendo 3500d at .5 doesnt drop voltage below 13.9 on music

im guessing your electrical is a little more beefy eh?