IB 10" Subs?...

[Plutoman 10+ year member]

some odd reason I think the nick name of this sub system will contain the word "clapper" in it.

Why so?

I love the sounds of an IB setup - the perfect blend between the sub and the midwoofers and on up. It matches perfectly, is crisp and clean, and I don't want to lose that.

However, for other occasions, I do prefer to have the volume turned up - and for the kind of volume I would be looking for at those times, I would need higher power handling and a much higher xmax and Q to match.

I think that explains my wants adequately. And I'm limited due to the car and space requirements of 10 inch or smaller subwoofers.

Didn't know ID had a forum, either ^^ Am taking a look over there.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Because the sub is working near free air and with a lot of power can very easily reach its mechanical limits hence hearing a clap sound from the sub. I would rather have a larger cone than extreme xmax. I have yet hear an IB set up that I have ever liked better than a good old set of IDWs. Not saying others dont sound nice just that the IDW did everything VERY well including the very low lows. People used to think I ran a ton of perfectly sealed 8's until the low notes were played LOL

 

[Plutoman 10+ year member]

Yeah - ideally I'll need a sub designed to handle the limits. Like I said, I'd love to be able to go with a single IB 15/18, but I can't lose my rear seats. My rear deck is limited - it took a bit of work to fit a ten in there. Anything over 4-5mm of xmax would make it hit the rear window if I tried fitting a twelve - if it wasn't already rubbing from the start, potentially.

This is quite possibly the biggest reason I could use a custom built sub, as it could fairly easily be built with more of an emphasis on mechanical limits. I am looking at the IDMAX, though, potentially.

I've already found my sub currently mounted hitting its mechanical limits when I did some test tones through it. With the music, you aren't able to hear when the tinsels start slapping, but it becomes more obvious when the music isn't there. Accordingly, I put some felt to help dampen the slap on the cone, and set my gains a bit lower.

Also, this is another reason I'm trying to get the prep-work done early. I want to work out any and all problems associated with my wants before I start making payments.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

what type of vehicle is this?

 

[Plutoman 10+ year member]

what type of vehicle is this?

A 1996 Infiniti G20, P10.

 

[mrogowski 5,000+ posts]

Yeah - ideally I'll need a sub designed to handle the limits. Like I said, I'd love to be able to go with a single IB 15/18, but I can't lose my rear seats. My rear deck is limited - it took a bit of work to fit a ten in there. Anything over 4-5mm of xmax would make it hit the rear window if I tried fitting a twelve - if it wasn't already rubbing from the start, potentially.
This is quite possibly the biggest reason I could use a custom built sub, as it could fairly easily be built with more of an emphasis on mechanical limits. I am looking at the IDMAX, though, potentially.

I've already found my sub currently mounted hitting its mechanical limits when I did some test tones through it. With the music, you aren't able to hear when the tinsels start slapping, but it becomes more obvious when the music isn't there. Accordingly, I put some felt to help dampen the slap on the cone, and set my gains a bit lower.

Also, this is another reason I'm trying to get the prep-work done early. I want to work out any and all problems associated with my wants before I start making payments.

Just start sending your payments to me. I'll let you know when you are all "paid up" //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif

 

[newusername 10+ year member]

I think a large radiating surface area is always preferable to extended linear excursion, but also is often impractical for the output we are seeking. We can't use huge 20 cubic foot enclosures, so we sacrifice efficiency to achieve the smaller enclosure, then make up the difference in output with stroke and power.

In a vehicle, I think a Q of 0.6 to the high 0.7's is appropriate; higher Q than that would be more appropriate for the house (although you can make electronic modifications as necessary with the inherent disadvantages associated with that). If you're stuck to a 10" size (perhaps because of mounting diameter limitations), then you'll probably want to make up for that with a few 10" drivers, or a single 10" with considerable stroke.