I want to build something like this

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

I want to build something like this. I like the look and style of it, but want to build it myself, with similar CC.

ANy suggestions?

Click to read more...

 

[I VIK I 10+ year member]

Link doesnt work

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

404 buddy...

nG

 

[revrider1 5,000+ posts]

Its broke

 

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

it r broked

 

[LiquidClen 10+ year member]

tag for fixed link

 

[slopecarver 10+ year member]

I'd imagine he's talking about the MFW-15 sub HERE as this is a car audio forum dealing with mostly bass yet I realize this is also the home audio section.

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

fixed, sorry

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Then do it...

Got specs, details, xover designs?

nG

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

Then do it...
Got specs, details, xover designs?

nG

Not really. AV123 makes it. I wonder/doubt they would sell the xover designs.

I really like that "open baffle" style. I have talked to jimj about it in the past and most of those OB styles look like a speaker surrounded by a giant piece of wood.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

OB sounds quite incredible. I will never go back to an closed box speaker again (other than cars, stupid cars). Instead of trying to replicate that design, I would simplify it.

Use a woofer and tweeter of your choice and design a crossover either by using calculations or room measurements. Or find an existing design and adapt it. If you can, add a second tweeter firing out back to complete the sound.

Then use an enclosed ten inch subwoofer or larger for each cabinet. Open baffle sub-bass is very transparent, but difficult to achieve as you need a lot of cone area (space) and EQ work.

Make sure you can cross over the subwoofers fairly high (150hz or higher) and that they can play accurately that high (Dayton RS series come to mind) so that you have options with crossover points. Most of the sub-bass and mid-bass will be handled by these to woofers so dont skimp.

Another more expensive option is using two 10 inch or larger drivers with a highish QTS and Low FS to handle the midbass on the same open baffle. Then use a monopole sub for anything below 80hz. This will require EQing of the large drivers to flatten out the response. Clever crossover design can also remedy the rising response.

One more note, you need to allow atleast 3 feet from the back wall ( ideally, 3 feet from the sidewalls though not as vital) spacing for open baffle.

 

[IamDeMan 5,000+ posts]

OB sounds quite incredible. I will never go back to an closed box speaker again (other than cars, stupid cars). Instead of trying to replicate that design, I would simplify it.
Use a woofer and tweeter of your choice and design a crossover either by using calculations or room measurements. Or find an existing design and adapt it. If you can, add a second tweeter firing out back to complete the sound.

Then use an enclosed ten inch subwoofer or larger for each cabinet. Open baffle sub-bass is very transparent, but difficult to achieve as you need a lot of cone area (space) and EQ work.

Make sure you can cross over the subwoofers fairly high (150hz or higher) and that they can play accurately that high (Dayton RS series come to mind) so that you have options with crossover points. Most of the sub-bass and mid-bass will be handled by these to woofers so dont skimp.

Another more expensive option is using two 10 inch or larger drivers with a highish QTS and Low FS to handle the midbass on the same open baffle. Then use a monopole sub for anything below 80hz. This will require EQing of the large drivers to flatten out the response. Clever crossover design can also remedy the rising response.

One more note, you need to allow atleast 3 feet from the back wall ( ideally, 3 feet from the sidewalls though not as vital) spacing for open baffle.

I would take the second route. No matter what sub is used in a home setup, it never sounds quite right to extend the sub that high, imo.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

I would take the second route. No matter what sub is used in a home setup, it never sounds quite right to extend the sub that high, imo.

Agreed...
A good (and popular) option if you have the room for midbass is one or two Eminence Alpha 15As (15 inch Pro woofers) per side to handle midbass and sub bass.

Goldwood also makes a great 18 inch woofer for open baffle bass. http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project08/Project08.html

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

I ahve a "real" sub as wellll.

WOuld I still use a 15 or 18 for midbass/

 

[andrew2944r 10+ year member]

I would just go to your nearest Home theatre store and pull out the CC and buy something...