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<blockquote data-quote="Fast1one" data-source="post: 5555283" data-attributes="member: 567387">OB sounds quite incredible. I will never go back to an closed box speaker again (other than cars, stupid cars). Instead of trying to replicate that design, I would simplify it.Use a woofer and tweeter of your choice and design a crossover either by using calculations or room measurements. Or find an existing design and adapt it. If you can, add a second tweeter firing out back to complete the sound.Then use an enclosed ten inch subwoofer or larger for each cabinet. Open baffle sub-bass is very transparent, but difficult to achieve as you need a lot of cone area (space) and EQ work.Make sure you can cross over the subwoofers fairly high (150hz or higher) and that they can play accurately that high (Dayton RS series come to mind) so that you have options with crossover points. Most of the sub-bass and mid-bass will be handled by these to woofers so dont skimp.Another more expensive option is using two 10 inch or larger drivers with a highish QTS and Low FS to handle the midbass on the same open baffle. Then use a monopole sub for anything below 80hz. This will require EQing of the large drivers to flatten out the response. Clever crossover design can also remedy the rising response.One more note, you need to allow atleast 3 feet from the back wall ( ideally, 3 feet from the sidewalls though not as vital) spacing for open baffle.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Fast1one, post: 5555283, member: 567387"] OB sounds quite incredible. I will never go back to an closed box speaker again (other than cars, stupid cars). Instead of trying to replicate that design, I would simplify it. Use a woofer and tweeter of your choice and design a crossover either by using calculations or room measurements. Or find an existing design and adapt it. If you can, add a second tweeter firing out back to complete the sound. Then use an enclosed ten inch subwoofer or larger for each cabinet. Open baffle sub-bass is very transparent, but difficult to achieve as you need a lot of cone area (space) and EQ work. Make sure you can cross over the subwoofers fairly high (150hz or higher) and that they can play accurately that high (Dayton RS series come to mind) so that you have options with crossover points. Most of the sub-bass and mid-bass will be handled by these to woofers so dont skimp. Another more expensive option is using two 10 inch or larger drivers with a highish QTS and Low FS to handle the midbass on the same open baffle. Then use a monopole sub for anything below 80hz. This will require EQing of the large drivers to flatten out the response. Clever crossover design can also remedy the rising response. One more note, you need to allow atleast 3 feet from the back wall ( ideally, 3 feet from the sidewalls though not as vital) spacing for open baffle. [/QUOTE]

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