I Think I Need a High Output Alternator...

So it turns out the amp in the picture on SE isn't the actual alternator I got. It's a single pulley alt, which means that my A/C will no longer work if I install it, and it appears that Mechman doesn't make a double pulley alt for my car. Needless to say I am pretty disappointed... Anyway I am gonna hook it up anyway since I've already invested so much into the cars audio and it appears I don't have much of an alternative at this point.

 
Ok where do I find one?

Just got my car out the shop and now it looks like my subs are blown... so I will probably be buying something new next Friday. I would like to upgrade to something bigger than the 12s I'm replacing but everyone here seems to suggest sticking with 12s. I have a $500 budget that will include the box...

 
Not sure why all the hate on optima all the sudden they used to be the forum boner. I bought a 2 year old used yellowtop when I was 16 (I'm 25 now) and it lasted a good 7+ years on top of that. If treated properly they can be some of the best batteries money can buy.

 
car not starting is not an alternator issue fyi
that is a battery issue if you are sure it is an electrical issue.

alternator only works when the car is running and has no bearing on the cranking amps needed to start the car.
It does however need to keep the batteries charged once the car is running, so if he's driving around wanging his stereo he'll drain the batteries and that 60A alternator will never be able to keep up.

 
He is not going to be running a constant sine wave. How do you think people get by with 100 amp alternators on new cars running 1500 watts?
They don't. They will never see the amps full potential (i.e. it will never produce 1500w), they will have voltage dips and cause strain on their alternator that will lead to premature failure.

 
They don't. They will never see the amps full potential (i.e. it will never produce 1500w), they will have voltage dips and cause strain on their alternator that will lead to premature failure.
If you set the amp up to run clean, cabling is good, it's not wired to low, it's not a POS.. It can run fine on stock unless is a RIPS type amp. I had close to 6000 watts on tap and never even touched the batteries on a 300 amp alternator.

 
If you set the amp up to run clean, cabling is good, it's not wired to low, it's not a POS.. It can run fine on stock unless is a RIPS type amp. I had close to 6000 watts on tap and never even touched the batteries on a 300 amp alternator.
It takes power to make power, my statement stands. With only 100A of alternator power available there is no possible way to produce 1500w of output power without voltage dip and battery assistance.

 
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